- Popular Post
-
Posts
11037 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Posts posted by Beaver
-
-
3 minutes ago, johnnyfive said:
The dipstick tube is airtight when stick inserted, stick doesn't go beyond tube, remove tube, oil assumes correct level in tube? Can't explain phenomenon that makes that happen initially, but something fucky with heat cycles and air expansion etc. Don't know if I've conveyed this properly
I agree with this man
- 1
-
Brakes. Pedal went too the floor but then kind of came back to life but feels very suspect. With car off, pedal will go stiff after a couple of pumps and stay stiff. If you keep pressure on the pedal and start car, pedal drops a but then keeps dropping slowly. It's a diesel and has vacuum pump on the alternator. Is making vacuum (30+ inch hg which is when my gauge bottoms out). No signs of fluid loss (internal or external). Car has been sitting with minimal use for last couple of years.
Any ideas before i start stripping the master cylinder and booster?
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
New oil line made up and good to go!
- 25
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
When for a evening drive and noticed it started getting quite smokey and smelt like oil. Got to @Geophys place and found this....oh no. Oil trail all the way up his drive and nothing on the dipstick....
Turns out the oil feed to the alternator (it's a diesel so has vacuum pump on the alt) had split and was squirting oil everywhere. Whipped that off and will get a new one made up and should be back on its way. Oil light never came on so I think I caught it just in time.....
- 11
- 1
- 10
-
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Finally got around to getting some tyres. The gold isn't as yellow in real life
- 32
- 1
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Thought it was @KKtrips for a second
- 10
-
3 hours ago, Sc@ Chi said:
We have a Nissan X-Trail T31 diesel manual with 215k on the clock. I love it to bits, we've taken to Cape Reinga and Fiordland and everywhere in between, but it has a very subtle whine when cold and my mechanic says that a sign it's on the way out. I sometimes haul a trailer for holidays and MTB trips.
So I've got two options:
1. Buy a smallish second car, probably manual, low Ks, not visually hideous (i.e. no Nissan Dukes, Leafs etc), up to maybe $7k as a runabout to 'save' the X-Trail for trips and eek it out as long as I can.
2. Buy a replacement, preferably manual or very low Ks auto, and doesn't need to be an SUV, could be a wagon or decent sized hatchback but no sedans. Current contender is a Honda Accord wagon like this trade me listing. Up to maybe $16k.
We had four cars shit their automatic transmissions. A Renault Grand Scenic, a Merc wagon, a Volvo T5 wagon and a Subaru Exiga which had a weird transmission fault which couldn't be diagnosed. However, it typing this out I bet you've spotted that three of those were european cars. Hence, the only euro cars we'd consider are possibly VW Golfs.
Also a bit gun shy about towing with an auto.
Oh, and NO SUBARUS! The Exiga was the biggest heap of shit I've ever driven. Same basic engine format (2.5 litre turbo petrol) as the Volvo T5 (which was just awesome to drive. Hit a passing lane and it'd whip up to 140 like a big rubber band was pulling you to the horizon and just wanted to keep going) but the Exiga was all out of puff at 140 and not happy to go much faster, but also got shameful fuel consumption. Also permanent AWD was shit.
Top of my list of must haves:
- Reliable
- Not hideous
- If a replacement for the X-trail, able to tow a reasonable sized trailer long distance
- Obviously not CVTs
- Unlikely to go for a hybrid as also gun shy of second hand complexitiesA decent Holden Commodore would suit my wife. We don't do much driving around town and don't commute so the fuel consumption isn't a big deal.
Hatchbacks: I'd like an Alfa 147 or similar, but would have to be manual, not sillyspeed etc.
Possibly an over reaction to a subtle whine when cold? Just send it.
From a fellow t31 owner
- 2
-
FYI Mitch is a GC so someone should help him out.
Gives a good reach around as well so well worth it
- 2
- 2
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
And done
Highly recommend Metal Polish Co in Hamilton for polishing, I was absolutely blown away by how they came out. Quick turn around and more than happy with the price ($80/wheel). Lastly need to secure some new metal valve stems and then throw the wallet at some tyres.
- 31
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Had a play with colours, gold takes the cake. Also new hardware and centre caps
- 26
- 1
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
- 15
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
-
Will have to check the diary but should be a goer.
- 2
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Centres out ready for strip and powdercoat (og gold I'm thinking) and barrels for polishing.
Flipped a centre for lol's. Mexipoke
- 15
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Goals
- 14
- 1
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
- 23
- 3
-
2 hours ago, WankBankA100 said:
The A100 is the minimum I reckon. Had to really ride tye shit out of my clitch to get up some of the hilly stuff. Fix that seat though if you care about your arse!
Jump in with me on the way down eh?
I've seen how much you abuse your clutch on the flat so not sure that's a fair measure haha
- 3
-
In my limited experience (three times) unexpected clacks/knocks from diesels have been injectors and/or pump related.
Your results may vary.
- 1
-
40 minutes ago, HighLUX said:
Note to self.
Pack big dog chainsaw for next year and a length of vacuum cleaner hose + ductape for a universal bike snorkel
To be fair it was going to take a hell of a lot more than a snorkel to get a bike through that river haha
-
Cam across this from the 1984 eastcape run.
/My phone got wet so this is what the camera sees
- 4
- 2
-
-
Packed and hit the road. Shit I'm frothing
- 1
oldschool spotted
in General Car Chat
Posted