cletus

New mount has to span the height of the rail so that can either be a new bracket the same height, or you can weld a plate on and build a mount off that

The problem is the arms dont correct the geometry apart from maybe correcting caster and camber problems at the new ride height, so while they allow the vehicle to be lifted more the pivot points are all in the same places so the geometry still sucks. None of the common late model ifs things take a lift very well in my opinion

Yeah pretty pleased to not find any ugly stuff hiding under the guards

Hr12ddr

I know nothing about these engines, but are you comparing a race engine to an engine designed for a everyday runaround? Dig-t-r

Cant see why not, you can buy 90deg angle brackets that are just a bit of flat bar bent to 90deg I'd make it out of 30x3 minimum and use the correct seatbelt size bolts and dont make it too long ( ie the buckle bolt is as close to the floor anchorage as it can be, not offset ) and you should be fine Scratch built vehicle has to have retractable lap diagonal web clamp belts in the front, and retractable lap diagonal in the back , according to my interpretation of the rules, which is in the frontal impact standard at lvvta.org.nz , and the nzta virm

Not sure if its relevant to your vehicle or situation, but Swann insurance give a club discount if you mention you are a member of oldschool

Removed more things and made a dolly that bolts in to the front subframe mounts

@johnny.race I saw some radial mount brackets on a hilux diff the other day and they were like this, I didnt look very closely as they were asking me about something else , may have only been picking up 3x axle bearing bolts. I think they started with a thick piece of steel they whittled down on a mill

Have not had any issues for cert with wilwood calipers, most dont have dust seals on the pistons, I think there might be a rule in aussie where they are required as I've seen some advertising somewhere saying " x caliper has seals so are legal" The wilwood handbrake ones however, I've never seen any that work very well, they often struggle to pass the handbrake requirements for cert which is 30 to 0 kph in 18m or hold on a 1 in 5 gradient

Lots of cars get certed before they get registered, so no plates

You would scan it with a phone, so most people would be able to access the info I dont know how that works, but everyone being able to access the info was discussed and there is a way of doing it apparently

Last training session we had, there was a plan to get rid of plates and replace them with a small plastic disc with a chip in it, that you could scan and it would take you to a website or app or something with photos of the vehicle as certified, and much greater detail on vehicle mods than can be fitted on the plate

Yeah that would be ok, probably a good idea to reduce the number of plug welds in the plate on the chassis

I got one of these for free off a mate who thought the engine was chooched, just had loose rocker cover bolts Had the same roof decals and was twin sunroof as well I think. Auto too. I drove it for a year or so, was a good little car

This is probably the same starting point that it was built from, this has a gvm of 4500kg so would be classed heavy vehicle Also this one has a big block petrol engine so can you imagine how many petrols this would use. Aaaalll of them

I would say it would be a separate chassis, the dodgy ones were usually vans with mods to the van body, that looks like it was probably a cab chassis deal to start with. @Nominal sounds correct, I'd bet it would be over 3500kg so would need the handlebars swapped over, heavy vehicle cert, RUC, all that stuff Probably why it has never been complied already

I have a luggage rack for mine but it only gets fitted when I need it, also I don't usually bother carrying the spare unless I'm going somewhere far from home

Yeah depends on the car. Most things that have a vented disc on the front at least, can be prepped to pass the 5 stop test ok If it's got drums or solid discs or the brakes are tiny or the car is heavy- probably not

Just a FYI

Ute conversions can be certified but you would want to allow for at least adding some strength into it First thing would be to get it, clean it out and see what it's like Youre a brave man haha

You can fit a surprising amount of stuff in a vespa glovebox. I was going to remove mine when I first got it but it's too handy And now welcome to the rabbit hole of chasing more power

Front= theres a couple of things that would need to be done differently for cert, needs shocks, bottom arm welding would need tig& ndt Rear looks mostly ok but I wouldn't recommend a 2 link. With a 2 link, to have any side to side articulation something has to flex. Americans love doing 2 links in various things because they are easy, but virtually no OE manufacturers do them, the only one that i have come across that is common is 60s chev trucks but they have soft rubber bushes and the bars come in quite close together at the chassis end and the links can flex a bit cause they are a I beam shape. Some 4wd vehicles have a similar system (nissan patrol or safari, landcruisers etc ) but they all have big rubber bushes at the diff end for articulation Have a look at info sheet 05-2011 on the lvvta website, that has a lot of info about it