cletus

clintoris was the other one haha yeah the welding is a no go unfortunately. this might help explain how it can be done //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/37800-welded-strut-how-to/

also, that was my nickname at work when i was an apprentice. BLAST FROM THE PAST

The welding on a strut that is a problem is when there is cast or forged bits welded to mild steel, that is the issue. the bit that you can see there- sway bar link bracket- is fine. however it looks like the hub might be welded to the strut tube, which is a no go. currently even brand name struts that are aftermarket, that have welding to cast incorporated in the design, cant be certified. http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2012_Welded_Aftermarket_Suspension_Struts.pdf second hand struts can quite often turn into an expensive drama, especially if its an odd brand that there is no parts support for here. if i had a dollar for every time ive had a look at a car where someone had got a mean deal on some second hand leaky old "adjustyz" with play in the shock shafts and missing bumpstops and incorrect spring rates, id have enough money to buy a whole block of cheese. i guess if you have a car thats not easy to get bits for then you have to take that risk, but be prepared for the possibility to have to spend some $ on them. have had a few customers spend $400 a corner to rebuild Tein struts

http://wiki.hbcosmo.com/doku.php?id=engines this may be of interest to you

another option might be go back to the place that gave it a wof and talk to them, they should not have issued it a wof edit; assuming the wof is new- it is not uncommon for unscrupulous sorts to get a wof and then do engine swap then sell saying its legit

For repair certs? dont know to be honest, not my area of knowing stuff. we dont have to deal with those

needs 4x 3/8 or 10mm bolts holding it to the floor or to that crossmember if it was me id probably do how it is in yellow and leave that little crossmember alone you can shorten the "u" sections if you want, and weld it together if that makes it easier instead of bolts both yowzer and durty ideas would be fine too

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/mopp_1206_driveshaft_tech/viewall.html http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshafttech.aspx

a 2 piece shaft has a higher rpm limit- something to consider if running an engine capable of high revs like a rotary, or a lower diff ratio and a gearbox with a lot of overdrive also sometimes the shape of the floor dictates whether you need a 2 piece shaft- eg a commodore- designed to have a single piece shaft- with a single piece shaft will have rubbing issues on the floor

legacy wagon? you can get them pretty low, tyre rub in the front will probably be your limiting factor, drive shafts rub chassis rail as well when really low i think, rear bumpstops will need a haircut as well to have any travel. i dont think they suffer from heaps of camber either, max you can go is half a degree over oe max spec.

awesome. burt munroe spec DIY

Yes change of fuel type is allowed, no problem.

there is a tube size chart for suspension components in the hobby car manual, depends on vehicle weight/type

yeah i started it and it went, "gsr galant vespas poo techniques homemade fireworks, telephones"

mark still does them if its a hot rod or something like that, its the bagged owt rydz beemaz mercz are the ones that cause shit rolling on bumpstops, 24-7 driving slammed as or on silly angles, generally "look at me i gots switchez" types

ring your local certifier, they can organise a replacement one.

noel or neal in hamilton neil fraser or lance walsh in auckland. mark stokes ( i work for mark) also wont usually do bags nowadays due to the drama that goes with them

also, do you have pic of the diff you have to put in? as Pete said, my diff is still a BW, its a 4 spider lsd ex a commodore, with 25 spline axles and side gears etc. normal VL had the BW diff,with 25 spline axles, would be strong enough for your application with a lsd in it i think, you can buy a lot of stuff for VL diffs,(VL turbos had 28 spline axles and 4 spider lsd) if for some reason you want to drive like a goose

looked at a vl with a three oh ate the other day, had twin pipes, muffs hang down low, was very close to the fuel tank on the drivers side, and it sounded like poo

only time it needs repair cert is when rego is dead or when a damaged vehicle is first registered in the country

this might be helpful http://www.aussiev8.com.au/driveline-suspension/33590-diff-information-thread-basics-salisbury-borgwarner-bw78-ford-9-a.html

yeah as long as the handling doesnt get all funky, you can delete that item

usually any rust repairs need a repair cert, and the vin guys are pretty good at spotting repairs. Its a gamble, if you fix and paint it and it needs a repair cert you may have to strip it back again for the repair certifier to sign it off, had this happen to a customer with a nicely painted HQ ute, needed to be stripped back checked and repainted again, cost the guy a LOT to get it back how it was to start with

retail prices= basic cert, adjustable susp, wheels, minor mods $480 wheel adaptors add $20 bolt in engine swap $560 eng swap with custom mounts $580-$600 exhaust cert $250 recheck fees $40-up none of these are set in stone-sometimes its cheaper if the owner is helpful, is a GC, car is a minter etc and its more expensive if the opposite applies, if it takes ages to get the inspection done, stuff like that also all certifiers set their own pricing and it can vary from area to area