cletus

you can get the car certed for 2 different size wheels, id have to find out if the lower price 'amendment' thing applies if you want 2 sets of rims on the plate or if it would be full price

Toe-n-go! haha

^this. you need to find an old school type wheel alignment guy to do a valiant properly, they are a bit of a prick to do. both the camber/caster adjusters are on the top arm on an eccentric bolt. would pay to have a real good look at all the balljoints and bushes- especially the lower arm inner bush- every valiant ive ever owned has been worn out in most of the front end parts. they are also prone to cracks where the front upper arm foward mount is welded on to the chassis

not sure how you would successfully shorten a carbon fibre driveshaft.

the australian is correct

yes car has to match what the cert plate says

yes if it all works, correct spring rate, length is right etc, then that would be fine.

driveshaft loop/s is required when if the vehicle is scratch-built if it has a modified driveshaft if you have done an engine conversion that has a significant power increase if you add a turbo or supercharger to the original engine if you modify the engine so it has a significant power increase "significant power increase"= 50% more power than OE here is the info sheet http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf

clintoris was the other one haha yeah the welding is a no go unfortunately. this might help explain how it can be done //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/37800-welded-strut-how-to/

also, that was my nickname at work when i was an apprentice. BLAST FROM THE PAST

The welding on a strut that is a problem is when there is cast or forged bits welded to mild steel, that is the issue. the bit that you can see there- sway bar link bracket- is fine. however it looks like the hub might be welded to the strut tube, which is a no go. currently even brand name struts that are aftermarket, that have welding to cast incorporated in the design, cant be certified. http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2012_Welded_Aftermarket_Suspension_Struts.pdf second hand struts can quite often turn into an expensive drama, especially if its an odd brand that there is no parts support for here. if i had a dollar for every time ive had a look at a car where someone had got a mean deal on some second hand leaky old "adjustyz" with play in the shock shafts and missing bumpstops and incorrect spring rates, id have enough money to buy a whole block of cheese. i guess if you have a car thats not easy to get bits for then you have to take that risk, but be prepared for the possibility to have to spend some $ on them. have had a few customers spend $400 a corner to rebuild Tein struts

http://wiki.hbcosmo.com/doku.php?id=engines this may be of interest to you

another option might be go back to the place that gave it a wof and talk to them, they should not have issued it a wof edit; assuming the wof is new- it is not uncommon for unscrupulous sorts to get a wof and then do engine swap then sell saying its legit

For repair certs? dont know to be honest, not my area of knowing stuff. we dont have to deal with those

needs 4x 3/8 or 10mm bolts holding it to the floor or to that crossmember if it was me id probably do how it is in yellow and leave that little crossmember alone you can shorten the "u" sections if you want, and weld it together if that makes it easier instead of bolts both yowzer and durty ideas would be fine too

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/mopp_1206_driveshaft_tech/viewall.html http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshafttech.aspx

a 2 piece shaft has a higher rpm limit- something to consider if running an engine capable of high revs like a rotary, or a lower diff ratio and a gearbox with a lot of overdrive also sometimes the shape of the floor dictates whether you need a 2 piece shaft- eg a commodore- designed to have a single piece shaft- with a single piece shaft will have rubbing issues on the floor

legacy wagon? you can get them pretty low, tyre rub in the front will probably be your limiting factor, drive shafts rub chassis rail as well when really low i think, rear bumpstops will need a haircut as well to have any travel. i dont think they suffer from heaps of camber either, max you can go is half a degree over oe max spec.

awesome. burt munroe spec DIY

Yes change of fuel type is allowed, no problem.

there is a tube size chart for suspension components in the hobby car manual, depends on vehicle weight/type

yeah i started it and it went, "gsr galant vespas poo techniques homemade fireworks, telephones"

mark still does them if its a hot rod or something like that, its the bagged owt rydz beemaz mercz are the ones that cause shit rolling on bumpstops, 24-7 driving slammed as or on silly angles, generally "look at me i gots switchez" types

ring your local certifier, they can organise a replacement one.