cletus

as long as its on a structural part of the body in the engine bay, you will be fine. getting them off without damaging them if they are stuck on properly is difficult

yep that would be fine

no. the intent of that rule is so you can fit lowered springs to original style shocks without cert. the bits that stop you doing it is the springs or shock absorbers are direct replacements, neither are direct replacements as they are different dimensions replacement springs are contained within unmodified OE seats throughout full suspension travel, they are not OE seats any more

they can be either- as long as they have a safety standard on them or they are the original GM ones in good condition, they will be ok. E level thing- no operate bags while moving, easiest way to do this is wire it to the inhibitor switch so it only works in park or neutral. you can have it so it works up to 20kph but then it has to automatically go to a preset level once you get to 20kph. i dont know anyone who has done this though, as 95% of the population fiddles with it after cert so it works all the time anyway

not that i can find, the VIRM doesnt mention anything about 100mm minimum, and theres nothing in the cert book about motorsicles

^theres a crack just below the lower 2 crank bolt holes

there has been more talk lately about minimum chassis heights, mostly due to this van. ended up with the police making a complaint against LVVTA, caused a lot of drama and wasted time at LVVTA. the guys attitude didnt help either, "FTP" bullshit every time he got pulled over i think the lowest part on this was 40mm from memory. last time i talked to the tech guy at LVVTA about it, he reckoned 80mm should be the lowest we should be certing anything

^ this guy knows whats up. as far as your chassis shortening, its in the hobby car manual- a basic version would be chassis should be cut on an angle weld back together reinforcement plate over top that is the height of the rail on each side of the join, only has to be 1 side of the rail plate should be similar size as rail material you can do this on the inside of the rail so it cant be seen. thats how i did the chassis join on that terrano I had. if you are not going to bother certing it then you could do what you propose and it would probably be fine, but it doesnt really fit what The Rule Book which Must be Obeyed says.

you would need to speak to someone who does compliance checks rather than just wof inspections.

theres no minimum size, would have to be fit for purpose, the design of the tower would dictate thickness you need to use

As far as a cert goes, depends on the situation but i have had cars that the chassis number had to be moved for similar reasons. the wof book says this; Condition3. A VIN or chassis number must not have been removed, erased, altered, defaced, obscured, destroyed, obliterated or affixed unlawfully, or be unauthorised. you could probably go see someone at a VTNZ / VINZ and get it noted on their system, what you have done, to prevent drama down the track

i. a class MA motor vehicle manufactured from 1 March 1999, or ii a class MA motor vehicle that was less than 20 years old when it was first registered in New Zealand on or after 1 April 2002, or iii a class MB or MC motor vehicle manufactured from 1 October 2003 these would be vehicles that have to comply with a frontal impact rule.

in theory, you can do that on a non frontal impact compliant vehicle, i wouldnt go as big as that beige one though. would probably be other issues preventing it being certed that low, ie angles on steering and suspension arms, cv shafts, tyre rub, etc

i made a 4-link for a previous project, i used spring shackle bushes from a navara or something common that were easy and cheap to get.

nope. got to matamata from auckland, first puncture, got to rotorua, second puncture, got half an hour out of taupo, third puncture.

i have been through the drama of leaky widened wheels after blasting and painting. thought tubes would fix it, nearly stopped me getting to nats last year. the easy fix was to find the pinhole with soapy water, whip the tyre off, there will probably be a divot/bit of welding porosity on the inside. i got a little drill bit and cleaned it out back to bare steel, then put some epoxy quick metal type stuff in the hole, bingo, no more leaks

welcome to OS. has it still got the bedford engine?

yarr, the last update in the hobby car manual was changed, the standard available online hasnt been changed

actually have had ideas about getting china to cnc a bunch of solid alloy mounts for SR and RB engine, and capitalise on easy bolt on mods for flatpeakers

if i was doing solid mounts, i would leave the trans mount flexible so as mentioned above, it doesnt crack the bellhousing. did see a car with a solid trans mount and normal engine mounts once, face, meet palm.

this.

yep, as long as the mounts are not welded on to the cast center section, if thats what vivas have. arms will probably be ok if the joints are good quality, arms are strong enough, etc

i wouldnt stress about it, non critical things like engine mounts are fine with a visual inspection. so if the welding and design is good, you will be ok. no NDT needed

i wouldnt say the lines need to be shifted, as it hasnt had a huge increase in power, the fuel lines are in the oe position, and you have fitted loops anyway