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Went for a lovely drive saturday with a friend and a short little drive with TooT TooT Timmay as passengers. Car is handling very nicely with the new torsion bars but it has made the need to be smooth mid-corner much more evident as it will step out on you very easily. This weekend i'll try and get another friend to give me a hand and swap over the sump with my baffled one and reseal the damm thing so it doesn't leak. Then fill with some nice new oil, new filter... then play time mid-week at Hamptons for the Unkles thing i'm thinking! I'll also needed to look at cutting some air holes for the oil cooler in the bumper as now with the lip it's not getting much air and it's really working that well. Got the hole saw and stanley knife out and hacked up my silver bumper... Placed some nylon mesh on the backside of the hole for larger stones, i'll have to see how it holds up before looking at improvements. Have ADOS F2 stuck to my fingers now tho, it's sticky...

also, if your having issues with gear selection/sloppy shifting - don't bother with get new linkages. Hunt around for a facelift 406's / C5 - (2000 onwards) with a BE4 box had cable shift setup - this can be used on the BE3 gearbox. http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.ph ... pic=121169

Why the $age? You can put a K20a in get more power + less hassles... http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.ph ... pic=120084 Peugeout Sport full close ratio box. 2.5 inches removed from front of peugeot bellhousing. Honda bellhousing cut until 2.5 inches remaining. stage 4 Mi16 clutch and pressure plate bolted to honda flywheel. Both bellhousings aligned and welded. Rear engine mount and driveshaft mount cut and welded to flat plate to bolt to honda engine. Top engine mount cut and used on adapter plate to honda mount. Hondata full engine management Engine is the K20a2 210hp but has been upgraded with jdm k20a cams and pistons so should be to the 220hp spec.

Are you going to be getting rid of the AFM, as the flap inside the unit is the real restriction point on these intakes. Even with it nice and short/smooth it made no real differance. VR6 throttle bodies run a larger internal diameter port from what i've read and have been used as an "upgrade" - http://www.205gtidrivers.com/articles.php?data=e2-vagtb <--- has photos of the mi16 manifold inlet port you might like to see... There is also a debate on the 405 mi16 forum about it - http://forum.405mi16.com/index.php?showtopic=1932

Sorry for not making it, family bbq ran later than expected.

Sweet... i'll be taking the 205 out for a drive so could swing by on the way home.

started making the blanking plates for the spotlights. I'll need to get Matt to give me a hand with the rest of it. Laid a crap load of rubber grease, chassis grease, and silicon lube spray to prevent the space invader foam from sticking to the bumper. It worked very very well.

I'm keen just depends on the time, as i've got a family bbq lunch.

If you keen i'd look to have a look at it up close... love the photos of it.

You bringing up the bx?

where you guys staying?

Did a bit more research into this the other night and realised i had been fed a bit of mis-information and that it can be done much much simpler... Get a 1.9 box, and put the MI16 Final gear into it (easy to do) and you will have a very nice ratio box except for 5th for road use. Take the 5th of the MI16 and you will have an epic box for track days and road use. Speeds at rev limit (7200) 1.9/MI16 = 60 95 130 165 203 MI16/MI16 = 60 95 138 182 232 1.9/1.9 = 73 115 156 198 244 Cruising at 100kph rpm: 1.9/1.9 = 2950 MI16/MI16 = 3094 1.9/MI16 = 3542 This is assuming the spreadsheet i was using is correct.

Because i'm bored at work.... Part numbers for torsion bars: I think Citroen where cheaper (same part) and they where something like $200 each...

The extra oil increases the capacity of the system leaving it less likely to run low on oil and suck air on the sustained high-g corners. More oil will also help with oil temp issues as there is a larger volume of oil to heat. I think with my oil cooler (can't remember if it's 11 or 13 row) i'm up to about 7-8 liters of oil now in my system. There is an amazing number of threads on the 205 site about the starvation & pressure issue, and I'm fairly sure the head not draining issue got debunked and that it's a combination of many little things to create one big thing - the external drains help but are not the golden bullet to solve all problems. Other know more about it than me... But yeah i'm sitting usually about 65 - 70psi warm, 80psi+ when cold. Brad: They are all covered in oil so it should all be lubricated. This is just the first version. I"m planning to use this as a template and make another thats more refined. Cam: you could easily make a protective shield for the belt / drive gears, like what you have for the cambelt... You could look at putting the oil tank by the co-drivers feet or where the heater core was - if your planning to remove it. Lots of places to put it if you get creative with your thinking... The boot is just used because it easy... Suspension Thread Link - http://forum.405mi16.com/index.php?showtopic=1133 I'd post up there and ask if the torsion bars fit - or talk to one of the fastfrog guys to see if they can try fitting a 405 torsion bar to their 309 or visa versa... If they do fit then call Citroen and ask for the berlingo van torsion bars that where 21.3mm it's an upgrade to your 20mm bars and should be about 20 or so percent stiff... You could also be on the lookout for some second hand 309 torsion bars from europe or buy them new off the shelf in 23mm+ diameter. There is an image in that thread showing the 405 arb is about 10mm shorter than the 306 s16/gti-6 arb, so you could defiantly cut it and weld it up to make a 405 24mm arb. i.e.

Sump photos of construction: Gearbox Side Plate: Windage Tray / Pump Baffle: <--- there is now a couple small holes drilled in between the spacer/strengthing plate to allow oil to drain back into the sump Factory Spacer/Strengthing plate (with pump to show location): I'll need to made a notched tower style end for the pump to lower the pickup also.

Not missing something. The are very very light in the rear, the whole car is around 850kg we think. Most of the gravel guys run 21mm bars, tarmac rally guys run a 23mm setup, and track setups are 25+ with some running 28mm. I went with a compromised 22mm setup which i can't remember why but i think it was to do with how many wet events we have here and the bumpyness of our roads. Either way i'll get more in the future for gravel and track... so yeah. The fronts i'll be looking at 350lbs as i think i've currently got 250lbs in at the moment and it's a bit soft.

re gear ratios: Keep the mi16 box!!!! then get 3rd 4th and 5th from a 1.6/1.9 (same ratio's) and put them in using the mi16 final drive. The 1.6 box was crap in my car, 1st was way way too short as was second. (mi16 and the 306 S16 (5speed) is the same box) Ecu's - the 4wd model had a 7400 i think rev limit where as the 2wd models had a 7200 rev limit, PeterT in aussie does a drop in chip for the ecu which takes the rev limit to 7500. I'm currently running this in my car and had it back to back dyno'd, the chip have me about 5 hp over the whole rev range and extended the rev limit which is where my peak power currently is. If you have someone with a emprom reader we could copy it and flash a new one... I think it cost me $60 including shipping... I run the same engine as you. Might be a quick upgrade till the link is wired in. Exhaust - changing the exhaust will not do much it's fairly free flowing as it is, you will get a lot more noise out of it.... If you make your own extractors prepare for a fair bit of work as you will most likely have the 8 branch exhaust and will need to create a taper in the manifold if you want to use a 4 branch system to help the air flow nicely into the manifold. Some of the guys are seeing 10hp out of a good manifold. Sump - You WILL need to baffle the crap out of the sump to run Hampton Downs. I had a local guy make my baffle kit and extend the sump to take an extra 900ml or so of oil. These engines are notorious for starvation. I got a 30psi pressure drop on track 2 at taupo. Buy the Peugeot Sport 6bar oil pump spring (Greg Kent - 09-444-7703 - has them for like $10). Brakes - Uber pads = Carbon Loraine RC6... If you want to try them in my car, your more than welcome. Disc's i'll be looking at the Zenolli disc's when i've worn my current flat factory spec set out. check out the 405 forum mentioned below about the 406 brakes on the 405... Web resources - http://forum.405mi16.com/ - obvious reasons... http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/ <--- the mi16 engine is in soo many of their cars it's another great resource for engine info.... http://www.taylor-eng.com/index.html <--- good info, i've got some parts from him, Cam's had a bit of a issue with him regarding an exhaust re-angling plate for his car, a bunch of the guys in the uk are getting his cam's and loving them. Sway Bars - I"ll need to double check this, but if i remember correctly the 405 is slightly narrower than the 306 - so you will be able to use the 306 gti-6 or s16 rear arb if you cut it down and weld on one of the end plates. This is very common and i've done the same for my car also. Just make sure you have a very competent welder as you have to make sure the end plates are aligned. Please don't run carbs! You will need to run aftermarket ecu's and you will get much better results from a fuel injection system. The top end is got for 7500 all day anything more and you run the risk of lifter float, you will need to go solid lifter to get around this. The bottom end is good for 8k before it needs work. Sandy is the guy on the 205 forum that is making the ITB's with very very good results. Not the cheapest but made to a high standard. Also one option that is taking hold is using the Honda K20 and K22 engine, one of the guys had it using the factory 205 mounts and the Pug gearbox = all the pug hubs, brakes, driveshafts, etc...

would love to... could also throw the new 25mm arb in also... but can't afford it and the hillclimb on the 16th

So finally after 1 yr of waiting the torsion bars finally showed up! This week gave them a good cleaning and painted them to stop them rusting. A friend and I fitted them to the car today and it's made a very nice difference! Worked out that the 19mm bars had an effective spring rate of 92lbs and the new 22mm bars have a rate of 168lbs... or roughly 82% stiffer. or something like that as i can't remember the exact numbers in my head. We took 5mm out of the shock bolt distance to drop the ride height, and with the increased strength of the torsion bars it's raised the car about 15mm

Tell Toni you have man loving time requirements...

I'm going to have to make my own set and drift set basket

Should i try and see if Man Jenga can come to your place?

only need bigger brakes really if your getting heat issues. getting decent pads will make a massive differance, most of the cars with shit brakes are really just because of shit pads.

sweet... found the link figured i'd share...

yeah they seam sharp! Read on the site they can swap colors around for different base colors. http://www.replicarallygraphix.co.uk/product.php?id_product=34 Full Replica BTCC Cavalier Decal Kit. Complete with everthing in the layout, will change any cavalier into this BTCC Racing cavalier. Standard colours as shown can be changed to suit your requirements. Complete with application tape pre installed for easy 123 fitment. £67.99