kpr

Pretty sure I said bigport 4age barrys not general barrys In other news the heads are still siting in the same place on my bench, because yuck

Lucky its not the 20v version, else you would still be in the driveway suffering for smoke inhalation

ae86 and ae82 have different part number head. but that could mean anything. So thats why redtop 4ages suck so much. they made the ports screwed up put smaller cams in and heaver rotating assembly could be worse, could be talking 20v's

ah yeh that makes more sense. I just looked up some part numbers and found 3 different numbers for bigport heads.

I assume the ae82 used those mounts on the head? which were made in back in 83 along side ae86's. which means the "fwd" casting would have had to be made back then. So maybe the 2 different heads were being produced at the same time. doesn't seem like a toyota move though.

Did someone say tvis was nice of toyota to keep the bolt pattern the same on smallport

So Ive always turned my nose up at anything that isn't a smallport 4age. But since everyone jumped on the smallport wagon. I thought i would attempt to make bigport great again @kyteler the gc sent me some horrible bigport stuff along with an ae82 bluetop head. I also had a bigport head thats been hanging around forever that i dug out. so... soon as i put the 2 together, it seems all bigport heads weren't created the same. first difference; the top one is obviously a rwd one and bottom fwd. as the top head doesn't have the fwd mount cast into it head on left is the "rwd head" the port entry is slightly smaller, but not a lot different further down the port are where things change a lot "rwd head" below Ae82 head. the port is much bigger most of the extra area is made up by having a lower port floor. but this also make it have a shittier short turn radius So, questions i have Are all rwd heads like this. or did they go to the bigger casting when fwd/mr2 4age became a thing? Bluetop cams. do they actually exist ? has anyone personally measured some up? the cams out of the ae82 head measured the same as smallport cams. so either its not a bluetop head. or only rwd bluetops got bigger cams. or said cams dont exist, and that billzilla guy tricked the whole internet. although they do have a different part number I haven't decided which head sucks less as is. I cant really be assed dyno testing both of them, but might have to happen. the rwd item is my pick to modify If you dont have any answers to my questions. At least entertain me with some sweet sharns of yesteryear how hard your bluetop kicked with tvis

^ I remember how amazing yet horrible that was. said dumb shit, complete with youtube clickbait. if tldw. it almost gained 1kw. so success ? just need one of these

I always knew this topic would end up at the holy grail, the su carb

Next video will have dumb shit

Nice. whats the yourdyno controller and software like to work with ?

Heres another one on intake manifolds. on the gold junk engine i posted a pic of a page back

ruthless, would keep your feet warm in the winter i guess. how about some group n cuts to keep the idle down

then hit it with the hammer ?

does your engine bay not melt with timing that late? Ive just ditched the stock triggers on my 20v which are 24-1 vr in the dizzy. now running 36-1 hall cam speed. runs a whole lot nicer no other changes. i do think the stock setup was getting pretty tired though as it spat the odd trigger error

while im here. Ive built this amazing turd to do some testing on. Its a super janky mixup of parts. but kinda resembles a stock smallport engine. although the head has had port and chamber work done to it, was only spare i have. why? mostly because i need to test some questionable mods, i dont want to try on my good engine. but also good opportunity to kinda start from the bottom an dyno test stuff that works, that doesn't involve building an expensive engine. I have some hand me down parts that can go on it. itb's and cams and the likes

Other than not having to find a "closed road" to do testing on. most recent one was the outboard injection. im sure ive told you about 500 times, I based most off my testing off afr change on alpha n tune. with the outboard injection I had a richer afr up top. this would have sent me in the total wrong direction, as would have assumed it lost power. but was actually the same / slightly more power. Kinda the same deal with the runner lengths. the way the afr acted did not directly relate to the power. but did give me the indication i was going in the right direction. enough so that i have barley been able make any improvements on the intake made pre dyno. having the dyno opened my mind/ maybe just confused me more as to what is going on. i can say some of the dyno testing you see is horseshit, especially looking at small changes. its so easy to fire out different numbers changing nothing on the engine. some times it can even be quite tricky just to get a repeatable number, especially on turbo stuff. Ive lead myself into this trap a few times till figured it out.. add ignition advance gain power, sweet add more, more power again and so on. then put timing back to where it was originally was, hmm same power as when i had that big number in there. turns out its just the temps playing games. Ive seen some dyno tunes that seemed to have very aggressive timing numbers, which i assume the tuner has fallen into said trap. so yeah dyno obviously a good tool for ignition tuning but still can have its traps. im sure there are lots of other things i cant think of right now. And them numbers @Roman numbers and graphs

vid shows how i made the bumpstops. along with the carnage

Its part of the rollover protection. the car sheds weight as it rolls

dont forget the battery falling out the other end. and yeah nar this isn't the discussion thread this is:

dunno the top ones look better?

@Dudley trying to flex on us with his extended lca with fresh black paint. probably got a ndt crack test done as well Oh an yeah the car isnt that broken, just lca poped tyre, and shock needs more oil, maybe seal stuffed. Hydro bumps worked good. watching the roll in slow mo looks like the steering arm over centered and the wheel jamed, along with lack of oil in shock done the weird bouncy thing and over she goes. extended lca's should make it a bit more stable and get rid of some of that positive camber when suspension droops

suspension was on point tho. till it broke. think a shock blew out aiding to the rollover. this wasn't the biggest jump..

awwww unluggy

I made this abortion to do 20v stem seals in place. then promptly modified it to fit 16v. double banger 2 springs at a time