kpr

dont forget about the noodles! They are my only hope since no 3d printer

Righto place your beats now.

@zep that chart i posted was trailgear stuff. if got 2 short side rock assault, would be at a guess 1300 ish wide. which probably too short?

what length do you need? have you looked into aftermarket 4wd stuff? maybe something that you dont have to get re-splined

Yeah easy. That part of the axles isn't hardened. You'll also need to watch out with the 6 stud ones the back side of axle flange too big to fit a smaller pcd. So will need to be machined smaller to fit the studs in. I recall way back my cert guy wasn't happy for that part of axle to be machined. I don't know If thats actually a thing or not. But maybe worth finding out first. Some of the hiace ones are also quite long

Yeah so basically insignificant. I stand by my half track burnout making your car faster statement. After many years of playing with stuff. If you need big compensation your setup sucks mechanically, your car is on fire or you have a efi 4k

if looking at the 30 deg line, assuming 10deg gain is from the port temp? so ignoring the port temp. going from 30deg pipe to 100deg pipe would be about 10 deg gain in temp. going by some crappy calculator i found, that 10deg change in temp would be about 2.8kw if engine was making about 150kw. so yeah cooling the pipe from 100degrees to 30degrees 2.8kw. well actually would be less because some of that 400mm runner is the port cant do anything about. so call it 2kw at a guess. so in my case i may have made the intake 30deg colder but not the whole length of it. so maybe .5kw gain at most. i'll take it... if i could be assed i would test it on the dyno. but dont have an intake i want to heat up with a gas torch right now

Nice, I assume your calculations take into account, there is only airflow in the runner part of the time, rather than constant flow? Possible to punch some numbers, showing temp gains vs a range runner temperatures. for following: 50mm runner diameter 400mm length 50hp per cylinder 20 deg ambient Also 70 deg runner temp is some sweet bbq

@ajg193 I have actually no idea how to read your graph. Do you have anything that shows temperature change along x length of pipe at a certain temperature? I've gone out of my way to isolate/ insulate the shit out of my intake. Be interesting to know how much a waste of my life it was

Yeah probably fine to run no or less ign compensation. in the low gears with not much load far less likely to get knock anyway, even if its actually hot. I dont even run an iat sesnor on the kp, but its pretty far away from knock, so not really an issue

how did you measure the difference? do you have an iat sensor at both ends of the inlet runner?

There isn't that much heat transfer from manifold to the air when full nang. not enough time/ length / surface area. kinda different story with intercooler. @Roman where is your iat senor ? Do you think the sensor heat soaking? looks like the iat start to drop a bit in the burnout when car isn't really moving. just some aiflow though intake. assuming you were running with your airbox on? maybe having the sensor right down close to air filter as possible, if its not there already, would help the situation / do a bigger burnout, maybe half track then back up. since basically pro import car im sure the track officials will be fine with it. then you'll be good to go. Edit: also on that note ^ when i did a big burnout in the kp, it always trapped faster, which i thought was weird. until started playing with stuff on dyno, which showed with hot oil vs cold oil can be a significant change in power

if drive tach from your link ecu, you can change the multiplier in the software so it reads correct.

Haven't done it myself on that chassis. but you may get away with it. will likely still need to take the gearbox mounts off. so can push it aside and down a bit. so have enough room to slide the engine off the gearbox input shaft before it his the chassis rail. It wont be much fun.

you have to unplug all the plugs on the engine eventually anyway. so may as well just do it that way? toyota makes all the plugs different, so cant get it wrong on if just go full retard and dont label anything. shouldn't be that hard to pull the engine and box out together. just time because lots of stuff to unbolt on silly fwd. took me at least twice as long to pull the 20v out of my corolla than in rwd format.

was going for the ramen / pad thai combo. but old mate pad thai made his cup the wrong size. so looks like its ramen noodles for lunch, to get that 4th cup They even have the full rolled bellmouth everyone likes

Yup. my money is on the small white ones working better than the big ones. well the big ones will just act like a shorter runner. Will see what i can do to resurrect the peach cans. although there seems to be more noodle cups scattered across my kitchen bench than peach cans at the moment..

few more come in!

Wow

looks like you need about 10k rpm

Those are amazing @Roman , will see if i cant dig out the hurricane intake concept

Ha, A guy messaged me, asking if i would test some like that if he printed them. hence why bumping this back up

Going to do another trumpet test video sometime soon, if anyone wants to send me some melted plastic or paper mache to test. dimensions are on first page

Unless you are planing on running a lot of extra stuff, no need to go bigger unit. stock one fine for most setups. On a basic setup you can even go to a smaller one.