Roman

Awesome! No such thing as overkill Keep us posted with your progress.

I think this is a very relevant point to why MS has a bad rep. You cant compare factory based manufacturing and QC processes to some dude in a garage with a soldering iron. (no offence intended to any dudes in garages with soldering irons) No big manufacturers offer ECU as kitset because they'd probably receive a similar level of criticism for failures, which often just come down to something out of control of the company. Regardless of who causes the fault, it damages the brand. If you're a tuner and you need to be quoting jobs and hoping to make some profit at the end. It only takes 1 or 2 megasquirt jobs where you spend hours and hours chasing a ghost because of poor assembly or similar. To just get to the point where you say "okay fuck this" and just avoid them. Which I think is the point that a lot of tuners have reached already, based on some historical MS setups that were a far cry from what's currently available. Id imagine most tuners arent electronics experts prepared to diagnose internal ECU faults. And megasquirt itself has gone through a bit of a transformation from being completely open source to locking things down a bit and actually selling assembled products and so on. Possibly relating to reasons above. So in some ways its present day reputation is undeserved considering a modern prebuilt MS3 seems pretty legit, as much as most other things. The number of people running Megasquirt plug&play for MX5s in America is staggering, its like they established market dominance and now it's just the community go-to. If there were systemic issues with it, there would be a lot more foot stamping than there currently is.

It can be tricky because the airflow vs throttle angle is massively non linear, so if you have an ECU where you cant set custom cell divisions for your load axis then you're a bit stuffed. But that hasnt really been the case for any ECU in the last 10+ years. Like you might want way finer resolution between say 1-5% throttle and then not much between 50-100. Or otherwise if people are trying to run it solely as a map sensor based tune then you're pretty much pushing shit uphill because theres not much vacuum. Again its one of those things where the initial configuration before the car ever hits the rollers is the big decider of whether or not it's going to tune well and stay decent in varying conditions after that.

Nah its a piece of cake with ITB. IMO punching in numbers into fuel and ignition tables is the easiest part, tuning full throotle is the easiest part. A big part of the time people pay to a tuner is all the background config. A car with less than say 300hp is super easy to road tune because you can do some full load pulls without it being dangerous or high speed. A dyno is a great tool and its main advantage is that its a shitload quicker. I gained nothing on dyno session vs my road/track tuning efforts.

True, this thread has been a general catch-all for EFI related stuff. Shall we partition out non DIY ECU type stuff to elsewhere? In my mind tuning your own ECU etc is DIY as it's often been a thing most people consider just in the domain of tuners.

The point of contention here is the tuner in Tauranga, who just so happens to sell a whole bunch of megasquirts. What he does isnt megasquirts fault but it doesnt help its reputation.

The reasons for megasquirt having a bad reputation are a bit self fulfilling and in some ways warranted.

Saw this pop up on fb. Pretty sweet! https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/analogx-4-channel-analog-to-can-interface/ Especially if it costs a lot less than an ecu with 4 more inputs.

They guy Andy who runs and owns Adaptronic is one of the smartest people in the multiverse. They are boss level ECUs because Andy properly understands all of the phenomena which make an engine work. However, it does suffer from some of the quirks of having been designed by primarily by an "Engineer" like apparently the UI leaves a bit to be desired in the tuning software. The tuning program is called Eugene. Alrighty then. haha. I wouldnt mind having a hoon on a Modular to be honest! They look sweet. They've got cool shit like a 4 channel onboard scope that you can use on lots of the different inputs and outputs. (I think) How are they priced though? Never looked into it.

Haltech is well marketed but incredibly average especially for the price. Do not want Plug and play is a good drawcard though.

Definitely, its amazing how your troubleshooting process changes when you have good data/logs. Like so many times somethings been not quite right, look at laptop, then before even opening the engine bay you already know what's wrong and are on way to fixing it. If you go down that path I can show you the ropes for some basic code for sending analog and switches etc over Can from an Arduino if you want. Like its easy to put it in a little case and have it as an IO box that only needs 2 wires to ECU to send a whole bunch of stuff.

You could offload some of the IO to canbus on the Atom. Like it might be more cost effective to buy an Atom + Can wideband than a Monsoon + analog wideband. Canbus is like the secret back door, on top of the predefined things you can send to ECU over can you can also have 8 virtual analog inputs and 8 virtual digital inputs. Then use an Arduino Mega or something to give yourself a whole bunch of 0-5v inputs and switches etc. Which is an absolute shit load above the 3 analog inputs and 2 digital inputs it comes with standard! And that you can output essentially as much as you want from the ECU as well.

Google the DIYBOB from the megasquirt people, its basically the female plugs that your standard loom normally plugs into the ECU, and then goes to a break out board where you can wire in something else nicely. I've got one, havent used it but its a nice piece of kit haha.

lold at the trim pot http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2659 Wideband accuracy is important, not worth skimping on when as mentioned by KWSSpartan controller + wideband is so cheap IMO

+1 to that! Look forward to results, def keep this thread posted :)

Jesus, thats one hell of a gain! Amazing still at 7500rpm too. All your hard work has certainly paid off, epic result

Whats interesting/awesome about this, is that the typical ways of tuning VVTI etc for an NA engine are still very applicable to turbo. Which I didnt think was the case.

Sweet results! I'm amazed at how much the low end changes with timing and head differences. I'd have thought when you're under lots of load on the dyno you'd be more at the mercy of your turbo rather than head and cams but thats obviously not the case. Thanks for posting all the results very interesting to see.

A good idle and easy start adds a lot to a car eh. Like the first thing you ever need to do is make the car idle. Sucks if its a mission.

You could do the injection timing split that tom talked about so it fires half as much fuel twice as often to even it out

I've been doing a bit more work on my closed loop ignition computer thingy. I've got all of the code working but still fine tuning things like how long each set of tests needs to run for. I've found that it works really well at say 3000rpm and 80kph, but then higher rpm than this it gets confused, lower rpm than this it gets confused. At about the 80kph region with my ignition map set to be 10 degrees across the board. On flat road it stabilizes at 40something degrees advance. Cool! But then at lower or higher rpm, it keeps wanting to pull the timing back even from 10 degrees. I think what happens is that because I'm so far from MBT, adding 3 degrees extra timing gives it a reasonable torque bump so the vehicle speed overshoots, then goes into fuel cut which I've told it to cancel the test and restart if this happens. I need to spend a bit more time fine tuning how long each test runs for though, or allow more of a delay before collecting samples. Looking at the fuel consumption vs ignition angle you can see that theres a bit of a delay until it shows the effects of the change (If red line goes up, thats less fuel) Another problem is that I am only interpolating the results back to the 4 cells in the table that its taking the ignition timing from. But what I really need to do is "waterfall" the results so that for example if you are at mid load 3000rpm. It doesnt make sense that if you back off the throttle you should ever go down to less timing than that. And same with RPM increasing at same load, you are only ever going to be needing more timing. So I'll make it so that every time it adds a new successful result it will spread that to any lower load cells and higher rpm cells if there isnt already a higher value there. I think this will cut down a lot of my false results. None the less I'm pretty chuffed that its showing *some* amount of sensible results and there seems to be clear ways in which it can be improved from here to work better under more circumstances. This is the ignition table that it has generated after about 1/2 an hour of plodding around on the motorway. (Values in table are degrees ignition * 10 )

Damn you Markku! Damn that is a sweet result! So coming to drag day this year?

I dont know but you're car was already bloody fast so it must be a freaken rocket now.

180hp at the treads is my guess

Sooooo After about a year and half break, made it back out to a trackday. It was stunningly awesome fun! Excuse the camera angle and shitty audio etc first time using my crappy gopro type camera (reminds me why I hate these things) Something funny, for about the last... forever I've had this issue where the front left of the car dives under braking. Have double checked all of the bushes, brakes, alignment, etc... Turns out that one of the handbrake cables has been jammed so its been pulling the right rear handbrake about 1/3rd of the way on all of the time! After fixing this, hooooly shit my braking distances have shortened up sooo much! Such an awesome difference. Only issues I had on the day were a piston jamming in one of the front calipers when trying to switch pads (time for a caliper rebuilt perhaps) and at the end of the day I broke teeth off another e-throttle gear. But then I realised a while back I turned off all of my smoothing in the ECU to stop that from happening. woops! Will turn that back on and should stop any further dramas hopefully. All said and done A+++++++ will trackday again