Roman

EP starlets are so damn cool. 
If I could have a dream garage of cars I think a full bodykit factory turbo EP starlet would be in there. 
The first time I saw a factory turbo one I couldnt believe it.
That and the first time I saw a Z20 soarer stick out in my mind was "WTAF!" moments for seeing cool 80s cars in the wild back in the day. haha.

 

So cool. 

In my mind, when I think of WRC. The first thing that comes to mind is the era of WRX vs evo battles for supremacy.
Maybe with a sprinkle of Puegeot 206 and ST205 GT4.

Everyone loves the group B monsters, but the 90s were a golden age for Japanese performance cars gaining some credibility. Generally speaking.
It feels like the rally results helped cement this in a decent way.

Having the opportunity to own a homologation version of something is so damn cool.
It seems crazy that this is even a car that is in any way still affordable to buy.

Yeah I guess it only really makes sense if you wanted to run a fully sequential V12, or a V8 with fully staged injection. 

But even so, at that price point might not even make sense compared to other options.

 

I downloaded the Link G5 software to see what features it has to control direct injection specifically. 

And, there's not really much different about it compared to normal injectors.
Just some features for controlling the high pressure fuel pumps (which will work differently based on manufacturer etc) 
and then apart from that, it was just setting up injector data as usual, and assigning them as DI injectors (which presumably puts the drivers in peak and hold mode)
However I also noticed there was an option you could select, to make the injector outputs work with the factory Toyota injector driver boxes.
There wasnt anything special regarding injector timing or anything else. A few extra features for blending port and DI injection if you were using both.

So I'd say it's probably still feasible to run it with a normal ECU that's got 8 injector outputs, so long as you connect to the box.
I'd test it here but I chucked that box away already.
The 2UR looks to run a box just the same. 
 

6 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

There's a few options to run DI now. They're all pricey, but it's good to have the option. 

On the front of this engine, there is a DI control box. 
It has inputs from the main ECU, and outputs to the injectors. 
I suspect it takes regular injector outputs, then beefs them up into the high voltage peak and hold setup for DI. 

So it might be possible to run that with a bit of homework, but for reasons above I've already biffed all that stuff anyway. 

4 hours ago, xsspeed said:

Romandayf I was pondering direct injection as I cant get 1urfse/2urfse's out of my head, what is the main reason you abandon the DI? Cos its a bitch or? 

Some very light reading suggests benefits mixture (efficiency and power) and Im sure something talked about charge cooling too, or is there really a need to run both DI and port injection that Im missing and so becomes a big faff?

Or is the main reason for looking at these toyota DI n/a engines because they typically have the higher compression as a starting point

Yeah the main appeal here was the high compression ratio, and aftermarket parts availability from the bigger engines.

I dont really have a choice though, even if I had an ECU capable of running it.
Because the aftermarket cams are only for the 2GRFE, and they do not have the DI fuel pump lobes on one of the cams. 
So all that stuff goes in the bin anyway. 

But the 2UR might be the same. And/or the ECUs of this era will be reflashable. 
I'm not sure how easy they would be to swap into another car with factory ECU though, and keep it happy with all of the bits that will be missing.

2 hours ago, cletus said:

Are you planning on going faster than 11.0? Or do you want to avoid wof/reg but still run at street car events?

I'm wanting to go through cert process again, but it's unlikely I'll have everything sorted by December.
I was hoping to go through a tech inspection so I can make it to OS drags this year, if I can sort everything else out in time.
 

It sounds like the wheels are slowly turning for a rules update around this topic. 
I mean Toyota started having full ethrottle cars 3 years before Playstation 2 came out!
It's hardly a new technology. 

It's funny going to nightspeed because the late model BMWs with advanced traction control stuff just absolutely rocket out of the hole on street tyres compared to anything else. 
But that's not really anything to do with ethrottle, it's more to do with DCT transmissions and ignition cut/fuel cut traction control.
Ethrottle is too slow to react to be useful at the drags.

It's a bit frustrating, but yeah I guess I will just keep pushing to get all the tasks finished to get the car going.
Then just talk to a tech inspector and see how I go. 
It will be a shame to miss participating in OS drags if this is a hurdle.
However I can still get a logbook and enter the car into some other events when it's going.
 

Yeah I'm using SW20 calipers at the moment with a Primera disc. 

But I've got an MX5 setup here I was looking to fit at some point. 

Going back to a smaller/lighter non vented disc, and better pad options for MX5s. 

That's one of the most important things for choosing a caliper I think, finding something that actually has good pads.

3 minutes ago, vk327 said:

slight thread hijack on the diff topic @Roman what f series housing/axles/brakes are you running?  iv got an estima diff i was gonna shorted and make brackets for the st140 corona but looking at  any better options that  are already 4 stud and brakes that  fit behind 14" advans (have an altezza center to go in it to match the 3sge & J160)

There is an F series that bolts straight in. Mine came from a left hand drive French MA45 Celica. haha! 
Thanks to @thegreatestben who was wrecking it a long long time ago.
Needless to say they are incredibly uncommon, took a fair few years of looking before I found one. (And back when there were a lot more of these era cars around)

The only problem with this setup is that it's factory drum rear, so has the skinny bearings. I've got an Estima setup too that I might shorten and swap in at some point. So I can get the big bearings on the axles. As I've worn out these ones a few times already. They start leaking after a while.

The axle tramp this car had on semi slicks or street tyres was insane, the shock loading on the drivetrain must have been intense.
I am 100% convinced that squishy drag tyres do less damage to drivetrain than axle tramp.

The echo as well, on semi slicks it felt like the car was ripping itself to pieces. 
On drag slicks it just felt like a CVT, but the wheels were spinning instead of gearbox guts.

I'm not too worried about breaking stuff. If it breaks it breaks.

One annoying thing.
I'm just looking to get some clarification around tech inspection requirements.
It seems that ethrottle is banned for drag racing tech rules unless it's factory fitted. 
So that might prevent me from passing a tech inspection. 

This has an F series diff, which is one size smaller than the Hilux ones. 
I think it will be fine.
I've got some spare axles though, and you can buy aftermarket ones that are stronger.

Yeah they are dimmable and it definitely needs it.

On my last one I had an LDR connected so it would dim or brighten in near realtime (dampened a bit)

It was amazing, come over a crest so sun is shining on it, could still see it fine.

Needs some sort of failsafe though as if it defaults to full brightness at night time itll burn a hole through your head.

Looks like its a Melexis rotary position sensor.

Too complex will adapt a regular tps on.

This is the other side

Bit of a mindfuck with my throttles.

One bank has a 4 pin plug and normal voltage divider circuit.

Second bank has 6 wires, and i assumed 2 separate 3 wire circuits.

But nope, its got magnets & shit.

Im thinking its hall effect but i have no idea how the wiring goes. Or if it would likely output a variable voltage or a frequency or whatever.

Anyone (by which i mean @h4nd ) have any idea?

Yeah that would be interesting to see, especially with a surface mount thermistor on the runners. 
Because the metal throttles on mine would get icy cold.
 

Yeah I'm not going to run outboard injectors. 
But always interesting to hear some other perspectives if he's keen to yarn about it!

It might be to do with that when you slam throttles shut, then it generates vacuum.
So it lowers the boiling point of fuel so it clears off all of the residual fuel on the walls pretty quickly. 
But if it's ahead of the throttles, it just sits there. 

I ran the echo with fuel rail mounted ahead of the trumpets, and surprisingly it idled absolutely fine. 
At full throttle the fuel map didnt even need any adjustments either. 
But transient throttle was really gross, and I dont know if there's any good way to make that better.
There werent any apparent benefits from it though, car wasnt any quicker.

I still think the only good reasons for outboard injection is for engines that have poor mixing inside the cylinder (Super short stroke) so they need to premix it more in the intake. 
Which is why some engines seem to get gains from it, others dont. Because you're only "gaining" what a longer stroke motor achieves inside the cylinder anyway.
 

Yeah lots of interesting things in those pics. I wonder if thats just lighter or more reliable than a bucket setup? 

I came for the motor updates, but stayed for the MSpaint diagram