Roman

I'll never do a battery in boot again. 

I found the big cables to run a lithium battery to the boot, weigh more than the battery did. 

As close as practical to alternator and starter motor are the way to go I reckon.

Then just make sure there's somewhere to clip on to recharge the battery or jump start the car if needed. 
Up under the dash can get fiddly 

 

Yeah I dont think roller bearings will work for anything. As roller bearings on a crank are usually where the crank gets pressed together around the bearings I think? 

The rockers have roller bearings on them. Could always be made lighter though.
Ceramic pistons is definitely not gonna happen but lighter/stronger rods and pistons should be easily achievable.

Alright so ol mate @chris r was a GC and noticed a K series engine at Pickapart over the weekend.
(I didnt think there would be anything K powered there! But late model liteace or whatever with a 7K) 
So he was kind enough to message me and ask if I wanted him to grab me the oil filter housing. 
I dont have it yet, but he took a measurement for me so I could scale the flange from a square on gasket drawing that I've got. 

So it's looking pretty good for fitting. Oil gallery drill holes are in red. 
The threaded holes for the flange have enough wall thickness away from the main pipes too. 


 

In terms of fitting it looks ideal, however I am a little concerned about oil feed pipe size. 

The 4GR oil pump outlet/inlet is 18mm dia, but the inlet on the K filter is 11mm. So it ends up around half of the cross sectional area. 

This motor runs all of the oil through the filter, no bypass. Then has 4x vvti pulleys, 6 oil squirters then all the other usual stuff to supply. 
So I'm a little concerned that it might be a bit of a restriction, but does anyone know if that's likely going to be an actual problem? 
I will go pull apart the standard 4GR filter assembly and see if it's got any bottlenecks in the filter housing.
Since the plate the sump will be cut from is fairly spendy I'm not overly keen on getting this wrong.
4K setup is looking like an awesome solution so long as it will flow enough.
 

Yes, these motors are a bit like lego sets. 

There is the head, itself, then there's another layer up that holds the underside of the cams and rockers. Then cam caps bolt onto that. 
The 1GR engine, unlike the others is actually a valve on bucket engine. 
So, although it would be a bit of an engineering exercise. Not impossible to design a completely different cam/rocker arrangement that bolts on top of the head.

However there are also some intermediate options like just designing some lighter rockers, or whatever.

Shimless buckets in the 1NZ. 

I think (?) rockers means you can have a more aggressive ramp rate as you're not limited by diameter of the bucket. 

But, on the whole the type of rockers present in GR motors seem to be troublesome / not ideal.

It was definitely interesting when I pulled the 1NZ apart and saw that the piston had ripped in half. 
Rather than the rods breaking which people usually do. (At much lower rpm, loading motor up with forced induction) 

I cant find any data on factory 1NZ piston weight. However JUN 1NZ pistons are 232 grams with the pin included! 
Not sure how much OEM ones are, but they also felt incredibly light.
Well, at least the half of one that I was holding...
Then the rods are tiny toothpicks as well. 
Looking through some logs it would bounce to 9200rpm when doing burnouts at the drags. 

 

@BiTurbo228 the 4 cyl ducati that does 16500 rpm is something like 8000G.... but tiny tiny pistons so not really comparable

What's the stud pattern on an rx4?

4x110 or some weird one aye? 

Its...

Its...

Beautiful 

17 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Why not run six pipes out the back?

Watch that video about the v12 exhausts.

6-1 would be way to go for epic soundtrack. But too hard. 

4 minutes ago, BiTurbo228 said:

Ah I hadn't thought about it as 3 separate 3-cylinders. I was more thinking about linking it up like a straight 6 with a 6-3-1 pairing 1 and 6, 2 and 5, and 3 and 4 together.

The firing order isnt like a straight six either. 

This V6 firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6.

So cyl 1-3-5 (left bank) and 2-4-6 (right bank) are the evenly spaced sets. Easy! 

@thegreatestben From what I've seen they are largely based around fitting bike's available space.
Notice the balance pipes though up near the flange. Seen this on a few bikes.

On the S1000RR they have a throttle plate on the balance pipes, so they can open or shut depending on rpm, because it does (something something)



 

1 hour ago, BiTurbo228 said:

@Rhyscar Interesting. As usual the 2-stoke folks are well ahead of everyone else in exhaust design.

Shame it seems tricky to do on a 3-1 merge as V6s could probably do with that design much more than other engine designs, given that it's not practical in the slightest to pair the correct cylinders together for pulse tuning. I do still think dividing one of the three pipes in half so you've got 1.5 pipes merging together would work, the question is how to fabricate it. Suppose you could cut one of the collector pipes in half to weld along the inside and then stitch it back together again.

The V6 isnt like a V8 where the cylinders have uneven firing spacing on a bank.

The only difference between 3 cyl and 4, is that the spacing is an even 240 degrees rather than an even 180 degrees. 

So presumably the scavenging effect just needs a longer pipe to acheive the same tuned rpm. 

I guess you could put a Y shaped section in the middle, to extend the merge like Rhys' example.

Cant find it. 

I suspect some kid grabbed it as a high tech souvenir, like they do at F1 car races 

Oh wow. That actually looks pretty good, and would fit better! 

Anyone in Waikato got one spare?

Thanks though! 

5 hours ago, keltik said:

Got a seized Mazda 3 here with the older LF engine.  

Would that bolt on underneath your oil pan adaptor?

(The 2.3L L3 engine has the same filter housing but with an oil cooler opposite the filter pointing upwards).

Found this on a Mazda 6.

Not 100% cconvincedthe outlets are workable but will draw it up and see.

might try get a mazda 3 one as well before i commit. As theyre only 11 bucks each. 

Can prime it initially while the filter is off and syringe some oil down the inlet and outlet. But then after that it should hold all of the oil from the pump onwards when the motor is off. 

Yeah metal 3d print is $$$$MegaNeds$$$.
I could likely get something CNCd for cheaper. 

Yeah for a 4-1 I've thought about adding that plate in the middle @BiTurbo228 but it's pretty tricky for a 3-1.
As with the 4-1, the benefit would come from using the plate to initially pair only 2 of the cyls together, and the other two. like this. With some fuckery you could probably get the change in cross sectional area to two fairly small bumps. 
 

However with 3-1 there's no way to divide them equally. 

 

Go start some bush fires on Takaka hill with the Imp, then go put them out as the fire fighter.

Full circle community swoon for Alex.

Ive got some dash 10 bulkhead fittings, could just have the nut do up from the bottom. Or have then upside down. Bit im thinking some type of shorter AN fitting that threads into the top of the pan probably the best.

Then underneath just two pipes.

Open to any suggestions.

I think straight drill through the front would clash with the pulley or belt.

Thanks @Rhyscar could be keen to borrow that some time.

1 hour ago, shrike said:

Do you need to have the oil distribution block on the sump to be that size? Could you make it lager off to one side and tap for fittings off to the side instead of have it out the front? Or do you need the lines to be from the front?

It can go anywhere, its just if i were to internally drill from the front then thats how it needs to go.

Im leaning towards a small pair of 180 deg pipes inside rather than drilling from the front. So fittings thread in from the top.

Yeah i thought of that. But too much of a pain.

Although probably not an issue if the engine wont last the length of an oil change interval