shavenYak

as subject, found some rims on tm and need them here! alternatively, any recommendations on freight companies who can do it on the cheap. cheers gang

yeah man, goes good as - actually sits pretty comfy on motorways too despite the 4-speed

hokay, liek this?

thought i might give it a go too: tried to get some reflection shit going on mean car anyway

yeah man giz a look

what about these suckers: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 258333.htm

yeah shit that pic is sweet - the mirrors are mean as too keen as for some rims, i think 14"s would be too big tho. saw these a while back: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =157435353 was too chicken to get them at the time - might give the guy a call and see if theyre still up for the grabbage

Hey ho boes, was hoping someone could help me out - just won auction for 7 x 12" rims and tyres on trademe, need to get them from Palmerston North to Auckland. Anyone planning on driving up sometime soon keen to help a brother out? Would gladly pay you with a doz of your choice Cheers, Oskar

would be interested in this for 3 cyl as well

yeah man that sounds awesome - who is this legend and where can we find him?

I've got the lower support mounts that are just flat, squarish ones, but then I got three upper ones that control the twist, and theyre round ones, like this: haven't actually had a good look at the lower ones, I think I can get them from repco/autolign/bnt, but if I'm gonna have urethane left over I might as wel try to make them as well.

Just called ITW, the supplier for Devcon, comes in a 454g bottle of liquid or in a putty form. Can get it at Auckland Engineering Services in Beaumont street (down by all the marine shops in Auckland) for trade price $130. Guy said they only do two hardnesses 80a and 90a, the Devcon 80 is 84 Shore A scale, so it's gonna be pretty rigid compared to the 60 that the honda guy used. A 454g bottle would be enough for two sets of mounts all round for my car, so maybe one of yous is keen to go halves?

yeah just called Suzuki, they've got two on the shelf for $138 + gst each.. I guess that's pretty standard price for OEM stuff.. was hoping for cheaper though. BNT go through Autolign Mt Wellington (09) 5742290. Talked to a chap there who machines Nolethane ones for around the $100 mark.

Yeah I'm pretty keen to give that a go (pouring new engine mounts) - otherwise, what are some good places to check for new ones? called stink repco and the "Mount Shop".. are there any others? guess I could try suzuki as well..

How much does reupholsering cost? looks fekkin awesome

Would it not be bad for the car to run RWD offset on it - stress on the wheel bearings/cv's etc?

I agree, they are pretty hawt. photochop with limited software while at work (ie: MsPaint) So I know very little about offsets etc when it comes to rims, +15 offset, is that a FWD offset? I've read somewhere that I should be looking for +30 to +45 offset for this car..

Oh yup - that's the shit - will make some plywood fins/spoilers this weekend and paint whole car fluoro pink. So how much dollahs you want for the rims? should probably test fit something in that offset first to see how it goes - just a shame you're in the deep south and I'm in the shallow north..

Keeeen as - basically any weekend, preferably before I start my new job on the 14th Jan (occasional weekends). Even keener than this guy:

they're 114.3mm 4 stud. Got any pics? There's not much room in the wheel arches, but I guess where there's a will etc..

Hi! Welcome to the new condensed project thread for my my Suzuki SS80. Discussion thread here: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/22630-shavenyaks-alto-800/#comment-578466 1983 Suzuki SS80C 3 Door F8B 3-cylinder 796cc SOHC Mikuni DIDS 2430 single carb Struts / disc up front, leaf / drum in rear 630kg curb weight 3,295 x 1,405 x 1,335 mm Turning radium 4.4m (less if handbrake used) Red Now here's some historical photos and ramblings from the last five years I've owned this fine vehicle: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ painted my rocker cover with some vht wrinkle paint. While the car was parked in the parking basement below our apartment someone broke in through the passenger door. The lock was already well stuffed but now its way worse and some of the panel is munted. see below. I finally did something about it: Installed Jaycar central locking. So deluxe. Also got some 'Forever Black' brought back from SuperCheap in Aussie, and did my bumpers and dash: Looks 1000% better (dash was faded to a light gray before). Forever Black is mean, but after using it I reckon that it's actually exactly the same as the black dye you can get for business shoes to make them black again. But I'm very happy with the result, and it's supposed to last for ages. (Forever?) Anyway the car has been getting really hard to start lately, I've had to push start it every morning for the last month or so, and quite often again in the afternoon after work. I checked the points, leads and sparkplugs are they were all good. Quite often after cranking the starter for a while it would fire up as soon as the starter stopped cranking. The coil is a 6volt model with a ballast resistor, and after looking at it for a while and doing some internetting, I realised that there should be a resistor bypass circuit so when the starter is cranking, the current for the coil doesn't go through the resistor and drop to a stupidly low voltage. So I read through my handy workshop manual which mentioned that only the European market SS80's got a coil resistor bypass added to the starter (because of colder weather or emissions laws maybe?) but the feature was added to all SS80's in later models. (this was added literally the MONTH after mine was made). So I tried a couple of things, one was to pull a wire from the positive terminal from the starter directly to the positive terminal on the coil. This didn't work. the car cranked really well and seemed to want to fire up straight away, but as soon as the starter stopped, the car died. So instead I just ran two wires from each side of the ballast resistor, and connected a little momentary foot switch in the cabin. I step on this when I crank, bypassing the resistor and giving the coil all available power. It works so good! Fires up first time every time! Very simple solution, but it took me all day to think of it and I now feel very happy with myself. (no more push starting) worked out later that it was the resistor that was playing up, and have sinced swapped both coil and resistor. Removed the foot switch and has been fine since. Got a spare cam reground: Old cam was: Advertised duration @.004 lifter rise: 255-260 degrees Duration @ .050” lifter rise: 185-190 degrees Cam lift: .198” New cam specs are: Advertised duration @.004 lifter rise: 282 degrees Duration @ .050” lifter rise: 205 degrees Cam lift: .254” I have had a dash cluster from a Subaru Justy. Once the actual tacho was out of the cluster, it was just a matter of identifying each of the three terminals on the back and hooking it up! I taped it to my ashtray for the time being, but I want to build some sort of box for it at some point. In this photo you can also see the panel I made to cover the hideous cutout that had been made when the stock radio was replaced. It's got three switches, two control my two small sony 2ch amps, and the third powers the tacho. the tacho switch is kinda pointless, but the amp switches are there because the car does not have an ACC circuit, just OFF and ON So with the switches on I can still listen to the stereo without the ignition being on. The second amp is powering a pair of 70's Akai speakers that I mounted under the dash: They are about 30wRMS and 4ohm, the metal casing is mega thick and really heavy and they sound fantastic. Got a sweet sump guard from an Isuzu Bighorn - the mounting holes even lined up almost perfectly with the sway bar shackle mounts. Pretty happy with that. on way back from Ruapehu: and of course the photo-in-container-yard photo. love it. Bought home some parts off a newer model Alto - namely some struts and the front swaybar, which is a lot meatier than mine. overall length is the same, but unfortunately doesn't clear the subframe on one side. grr. Can't use it. I've had a nice dash sitting around for a while that I only just put in - It's in really good shape, and doesn't have the stereo panel hacked out. I've never had a roof lining in the car since I've owned it, so every time you shut the door it sounds like kicking a big empty steel barrel or something. I had a plan in the past of putting green astro-turf up there, but it was put in the too hard / cbf basket a while back and that idea's since been canned. But the other weekend I put this in instead: They're bostik sound deadening sheets, so pretty heavy - will be interesting to see if they stay stuck once summer rolls around. Probably overkill, but was nice and easy to put up. For now I'm stoked. Looks good, sounds good, and smells like a freshly tarred road. mmm. The other thing to happen was just the other day I found these red wheels that are just like the white ones I still haven't done anything with, except they've got tires, the paint's in reasonable nick and theyre not multi-stud. So I put them on! They've got 175-60 13's on which are quite a change from the 145-70 12 I had before. Quite a bit more traction in the corners which has gotta be good! No scrubbing except at full lock where it's only really rubbing the rubber splash guard anyway. And I'm sure this is what we all want to happen next: might not actually chop the dog quite that far though.

the old man had a bedford camper with a V4. was mean.