~Slideways~

You aren't in wellington anymore, right?

Its great to see a car come back from the dead like this

Bolts should hold it fine, I had some coilovers on a previous car that were designed with elongated holes for camber adjustment on the knuckle end. Didn't have any problems with those.

Good idea, I'll get the tyres fitted soon then see where they sit.

Thanks guys, I've bought the Weldtech EZITIG 200 now to learn how to weld, bit different to MIG/metal-glue-gun.

Crazy light! I agree, they do suit pretty much anything. Maybe some 10" ones for my N360? haha

Thanks!

First brand new wheels I've bought since ages ago. Only other time I have was some Performance Superlites which must be 15+ years ago now. Jebus...these years...fck. Anyway, photos of things that I think are cool: They have covers, cool... They are Enkei RPF1 17x9.5 +18, so light its crazy. On the car, I STILL need to bolt that guard down properly. Miles of brake clearance which is always an issue with these Nissan 4 pots. But quite close to the coilovers. I guess I'll find out if it touches once tyres are on. Maybe camber will help if needed. Tried a 5mm spacer and its a bit better. About 5mm better, finger for reference: I need to check how many turns the wheel nuts go on, if I use 5mm spaces I might need longer studs.

That's a good idea, would have been good in that spot since I could get to the other side.

My wife sent me a photo of these at the door, overnight from Japan (well, more like 60 days from Japan...but still...cool). I'm stuck at work though. Dumb.

More chemotherapy for the little Honda. Not the tidiest welds, I was very conscious of not putting too much heat into it. But its solid and straight and rust free.

Good to know thanks

Their EZITIG 200 is the lowest price so far at $1650 incl gst. Weldingsupplies don't list the price now, which is weird. So I've asked.

Thinking about buying an ACDC TIG for a max of $1500 if possible for a decent one. Does anyone know if any of the suppliers have an end of financial year sale, or is that not a thing? BOC's website has the smootharc 185 for the normal $1511 +gst so no sign of a sale there. Yet at least.

First patch welded in, I was a bit worried about the 50 year old steel but it didn't seem any different than new steel. Came out ok Also for motivation I put the bike cluster roughly where I want it on the dash:

Oh and my new wheels are at Customs in Auckland. Dunno how long this'll take, no doubt they will ask me for money. Not sure how they contact me. Edit: I only know this because the japanese tracking told me so.

Welded some extra bits to the seat frame which was made for a bottom mounting Sparco, to fit a side mounting Racetech seat I had from a previous car, sat in it testing the position and making vroom noises before finalising the mount holes. Feels more natural slightly angled towards the accelerator pedal rather than straight ahead. Racetech fitted: I also put a factory passenger seat in. I figured I could use the Sparco in the N360 instead of putting it in this and with this factory passenger seat I'll be able to take the kids for rides with their seat strapped in. Also finally found the right spacer bits to make the horn button fit/work. Not really worth taking a photo though, just picture a button where there was no button.

Ausy steel replacing rusty bits, just tacked in now but all reference measurements look good! The inner wheel arch there is just covered in glue it'll tidy up nicely later. This sill is not so happy, but I'll keep chipping away at it. This bonnet support frame is quite rusty. The outer skin is pretty good, so I am thinking I could tidy up the skin then make a fibreglass mould and play around with making two bonnets. One with a hole for the trumpets and one without. The vents would be pretty hard to make but I'll see. I thought this was funny, this is the complete fuse box for the whole car:

Haha that's cool but tortron has offered to go have a look already, which is awesome.

myKool just pointed out that Zebra Onehunga just got an AE95 Carib with the axle/diff/propshaft I need. But I'm in Wellington. How do I get it? I'd pay someone to remove it but no idea who'd be able to.

Wired in the Yellowbox speedo calibrator to see if it would work with the tacho, bit of stuffing around splicing into the right wires and figuring out you can't adjust it with the engine running and its good. Rev's now don't say I'm doing 9000rpm+ and it matches the readout on the Apexi SAFC II: Speedo and tacho working! I need to figure out how much the speedo is out by before adjusting it: Trying to keep the wiring nice and tidy: Yellowbox is much simpler thing:

Small update, needed to take the dash out for the rust repairs. It's nice working with something with such basic electronics compared to the 200SX body loom swap/1JZ working with s13 stuff. This relay is so cool looking: Donor panel:

For anyone that might come across this, the main issue was bad solders on the speedo's board, not visibly bad to the naked eye though. I resoldered 80+ that I could get to and it now works. Guess that's 29 year old electronics for you. And 2P (Yellow wire with green strip) was not the input, it looks to be an output of the speed reading sent to the factory Nissan ecu. The correct input has '+' and some Japanese writing on it. I used a translating iphone camera app which tells me it is: "Powdered curry for making of sauce" The wire is Yellow with a Blue strip.

After realising 2P is not the input for the speedo I rewired it AAAAND... it made no difference at all. I ended up taking the cluster apart again, took out the speedo and as a last resort I resoldered almost every single thing I could get to which is about 80 of them... now it works! Such a relief to have this stupidly frustrating problem finally solved after weeks of tinkering and I can move onto adjusting the readout with the Dakota Digital. Waiting on some new wheels to arrive which are the same width (9.5") but less aggressive offset which should be more cert friendly.

Good idea, I have used a phone app that uses the camera. Semi works, not sure the writing will be big enough but worth a try.