~Slideways~

If its possible then I would do this to start with. Unless the kent needs too much money. I feel like I've done my dash with 4age's, but maybe.

...interesting thought. I've had 3.5hrs sleep but this is turning the dead hamster in my head. EDIT: the KLZE wouldn't work because it would sit too far forward, but possibly a fwd inline 4. Suspension would make things harder with certifying I reckon. Better engine access by keeping the VW transaxle (or similar).

Totally depends on whether I can get paper work for it. If I can, then I might be able to get it on the road based on how it was built. It's unlikely though, unless there are declaration papers. Which were probably with the last owner, not the guy that had them built. But yeah, the shorter block length would be good, I would be able to fit a bigger radiator at the back. Currently the kent takes up all of the length right to the back panel. I'd need an adaptor, I know ford and mazda worked together but I seriously doubt there is any similarity with the common ford inline 4 bellhousings of that era. Also need to think about what the transaxle can handle plus that it is a 4 speed. A porsche box would be good but have to change lots.

Haven't heard anything from Stephen Fleming but it's not really a rush and she did say he is very busy. Maybe I'll ring in a week or two. Tried cranking it over with the wifes car running and connected the to battery cables at the front of the Eureka. Touch cut wires of dash and it turns over with the starter (previously had battery jumper leads directly on the starter). Still sluggish, so maybe the starter needs a rebuild. Tested and found no spark, had it turning over with wifes car and spare battery connected to the coil. I'll take the distributor out and see what I find. Having silly thoughts of an all aluminium KLZE 2.5L v6 and ITB's sticking out the bonnet. Or maybe bike carb's on the Kent after getting it running on the DCOE 42. Depends on whether I need to go through a cert or not (what paper work I can get, if any). The V6 just suits the car I reckon. But the kent is 'original'....but heavy and half the power.

Cheers, re: work I am currently waiting for the outcome of the feedback period. I am one of quite a few effected and the decisions seem to be being made by people who should, but don't know what my job involves. My feedback appeared to get a reaction of 'uh oh...forgot about that' and a lot of people have been saying, ''but who will be doing X, Y and Z??" Small possibility I will still be employed in some form. There is a pretty good redundancy pay but I have two little kids, mortgage and a wife to pay for. So if I wasn't able to find a job for long enough the redundancy pay disappears. If it wasn't in my contract to have redundancy pay, things would be quite sh1t. In saying that, in the time I've been there, this must be the 6th round of redundancies I've been through but the first where I've been given the letter. So it's been a good run I guess.

Got the roof off, you can see how damaged it is. I reckon it must have hit something while open or possibly someone tried to pry it open from the front? I have almost all of the bits to fix it but I am also hoping to get a whole 'new' roof. Started cleaning out the crap from the floor, lots of broken glass. Not safety glass either, its in fckn everything, even the air vents and gearshift holes: It's all dry inside now, so pulled out the fcked carpet (classy 70's blue loop carpet): Found a key! (and some rust in the floor): Tried the key in the ign key hole but it snapped in there...cool. Coolcoolcool. That's annoying but it refused to turn with the other key as well which was also rusty. So no real loss, I was thinking I'd need to replace the barrel anyway. Also found this magazine behind the drivers seat under the carpet, lol: The steering wheel is weirdly bent: Cut the ign key wires because I wanted to see what would happen with power. Not much, although I can get a click from a relay in the back which must be the starter motor. There is a crude fuse box which is a bit stuffed so might explain why I don't get much happening. So out of interest I put some fuel in the carb, plugged in the coil that was inside the car and connected it to battery positive. Tried to crank over with the jumper leads straight on the starter but nothing happened. Think that spare battery is stuffed. Took the battery out of the 200sx and tried with that. OK so engine is cranking over again, but pretty sluggish and no sign of it wanting to start.... that was kind of optimistic. Ran out of time to do anything more so haven't checked to see if there is any spark. Have chucked the battery on charge and will see if it cranks over any better tomorrow. Maybe the starter is just tired or the bores are rusty, who knows

The basic rule I've learned is that a good turbo for a diesel is roughly the same as one for a petrol engine half the size. So roughly 2L turbo's. You can get away with bigger turbo's and bigger exhaust housing sizes by fitting a bigger diesel pump, you could run a big Holset HX35 with a small exhaust housing with a big 12mm diesel pump and it'll spool well. But in your case (and mine) with the standard 10mm pump, something from a 2L turbo petrol suits it well. Mine is the same wheel specs as an Evo 3 with the the TD05 16G (big G). EDIT: Its a Kinugawa which has options for 6cm, 8cm and 10cm exhaust housings. I used the 8cm but the 6cm would spool faster then choke it a bit at the top end. A VF8 from a Subaru would work well and could maybe find at Pick a Part. I wonder if you could even fit a cheap common TD04 from a Subaru or Mitsi (different exhaust flange) then later fit a TD05 with the same flange?

Good idea, I've just added it to the cert thread.

Hi Cletus, - Can you tell me if it is possible to cert a half cage (or if its even part of a cert) with side intrusion bars? It would follow the design of being out of the way of the driver and passenger head. - on that, what is the definition of 'head restraints' when it comes to a half cage? The half cage would be welded in, unsure whether the side intrusion would be bolt in or weld in. I prefer weld in but it depends if its even possible. The reason I ask is because I want to add safety and stiffness to a late 60's kei car design but I don't want to have to have an authority card and log book for a 2nd car (I am planning a full cage in another project). Thanks again.

Even if they are relatively low, they could tie in with the dashboard cross bar to stiffen up the body. Worth investigating when it comes to it.

I'm not sure if there would be room for the window to wind down anymore, but either way I don't think it would do much because of the door jam design. Interesting idea though. I like the idea of a half cage with side intrusion if possible because it would stiffen up the body too. Just a thought right now really.

I'd say I push reasonably hard on the track, enough to think now that I have kids it makes sense to have a cage. I remember doing a couple of pirouettes in the pouring rain at Manfeild and facing on coming traffic once, but that was a bit silly in the rain with surface flooding.

I love how it says "or cosmetic" I've found some old info talking about side intrusion being possible, but the above doesn't mention it so it must only be referring to a 'normal' 4 point half cage. I suppose I could make the side intrusion bolt on...

Cool project, damn these rusty honda's though

Just thinking out loud about roll cages. I plan to have a full cage in my 200sx but every time I work on the N360 I think that I'm putting far more performance into this tiny 60's Honda shell and I really should have a cage in it. But then that's two cars I would need an authority card/log book for and 2 x 2 events that I need to enter each year...oh no that sounds terrible I know. But in reality I may not have time for four 'forced' events while the kids are little. So I was thinking about a half cage, no need for authority card. But that doesn't help the bit I'm sitting in. Would it be possible to have a half cage with side intrusion bars without the full cage restrictions? A full cage would be safer but I'll use the 200sx for events mostly. The N360 will be a hilarious autocross, motorkhana and fun road car.

Alrighty, wheel alignment/camber/caster all adjusted and the bits that need to be within 0.5degrees of factory are fine. Sweet, was a bit worried it would not have enough adjustment but its fine. Went to adjust the speedo but it turns out that it is acting up again, its like the is a short somewhere and the needle keeps creeping up. Don't have the time to mess around as im running out of time for cert recheck. So I took the NZ spec cluster out of the other 200sx I have waiting for me to work on it. Wasn't sure if they would be compatible. Its a 240kph one versus the japanese 180kph I had in it from the import car/wreck/parts car. Turns out it fits fine, even was able to keep the same odometer/trip meter. So now it works fine and reads within 1 or 2 kph according to the GPS app I had running on the dash. Speedo mess: But now I have a working 240kph speedo, so I've made the car way faster. For some reason a few photo's stopped working...fixed now.

Spent a bit of time checking it over. Under the rocker cover its super clean, no build up at all: Took the weber apart, fully expecting to see disintegrated brass dust and gunked up crap but look at it, it looks barely used! A little bit of dust at the bottom but that vacuumed out easily. The floats look new: Throttle plates move fine, a bit carboned up intake: Under the ramflow element is a bit rusty but nothing major. Definitely needs new foam though. Took the mild steel radiator hose tubes off, the top hose isn't too bad inside but the bottom one is stuffed. I'll make something to replace it. This brass outlet has turned to dust though, looks like it must be for the heater: The inside of the hose is weird...like a solid blockage of brass corrosion dust? Sprayed some more CRC into the spark plug holes again to let it soak while looking at the above then connected a battery straight to the starter and it bloody cranks over smoothly now! And the starter works, its pretty rusty but looks to work fine. The battery I used is a bit weak but it worked, crazy. I then flushed water though the engine block, it came out clean surprisingly. The radiator had some rust-mud in the bottom which looks like the remains of that badly rusted bottom hose. It fckn turns over with the starter! I wonder what the fuel tank looks like inside? ...not expecting it to be good. Anyone know what this number means? I already know/think its a 'sport/GT spec' based on the L3 stamp but not sure what this means.

Thanks man.

Lol yep, if only money were free. That would be a weirdly pointless system... Have a meeting with a manager on Monday after giving some feedback on the decisions being made. Who knows where that will go.

Obligatory IMNOTSELLINGMYRACECAR

Holyyyyy cr@p.... I just got a phone call from an unknown number, it was Stephen Fleming's partner!? She said he is the same guy and she said he most likely does have paper work for the car since he never throws anything away. He is a busy guy so she thought she would ring me to let me know the good news, that he is the person I am looking for. What are the chances. I can't believe that worked and what a nice lady to talk to too. Still can't believe it. I'm also being made redundant, which is less useful.

Kind of weird, I mean are people serious? Or just vomiting words?

Nope, I've just sent a join request since its a closed group. Thanks for the heads up.

Did bump stop installs on these jobby's: Also found that the brake caliper adaptor bolts are JUST too short once I add a spring washer, these are the supplied ones with the kit without springwashers. So I got some 10mm longer ones from Coastal Fasteners and shortened them to clear the rotors. One step closer to being back on the road, it's been off the road for 12 years.

What better to do than lay on cold asphalt in the dark at 10:30pm on a weeknight and try to hand crank a possibly seized old Kent engine? Me? Retarded? Dunno, but it's interesting anyway. I removed the spark plugs to spray some penetrating oil in there. There was a bit of junk around the plug holes even though I brushed away anything before hand so, I vacuumed in the dark. Its a perfect fit. Top of pistons don't show any signs of water or rust. Inside rocker cover is nice clean and oily. Plugs look ok, I wonder if they are 35+ years old? Found you can still buy Champion N9Y's The crank pulley is right up against the fibreglass body, barely enough to get a spanner in. At first it refused to move with the little leverage I could get on it in the space, I thought it must be seized. Then it moved maybe an 10th of a turn, moved it back and forwards a little. Then put the breaker bar on it just fitting pushed up against the fibreglass back panel and got an easy free feeling half turn! Maybe it'll live again?