EFI_LC

I was held up working on this full time as real life gets in the way like trips away and going to Drag Racing, Circuit Racing, and all the other stuff, but I am now making a push to finish. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1267176186641889.1073741898.612338512125663&type=3 I had never finished the diff as I had no room for the single top arm and I made a temporary setup but I am now putting them through the wheel wells and they can then mount on the roll cage base plate where I can brace the front mount to the cage. I have oodles of room in there as the wheels are pushed out wider. The wiring under the bonnet is now done and the engine runs on its alternator now and has an Evo 4 Alloy radiator. Rear disc brakes are done and plumbed and can still just fit the 13's on the rear. Once I fit the GTR fronts I will need to run 15's

A couple of things arrived yesterday and I put the dizzy on just before and an immediate difference to the responsiveness of the engine. I never even changed the Dizzy cap It pulls clean from low revs and pulls harder in the mid-range. My intentions are to pull the engine out Nov or Dec and do the Cam, Lifters and internal engine clean. Then put the 600 Holley on and flows and build an exhaust, Then next, lighten the flywheel and match the clutch for the W55 box. I need someone to turn up a brass spigot and that should do that.

Nice Wagon, '66? I went to this one year, stayed at Cromwell and visited highlands as well. Great day out

Well, after 2 previous attempts to un-BMW myself I finally succeeded and now have something to replace it as my daily until I get my VK to where I am happy with it. It is a manual 1995 Nissan Skyline HR33 GTS – 2.0 L RB20E SOHC boastng a tire shredding130 PS (96 kW@5600, 172 Nm@4400). To say it is under powered is an under statement but then I never bought it for that as it is a daily, it does have a nice sounding sound system at and starts and runs and air con works etc. Compared to my carby VK Commodore it feels slower but it has more torque 86 kW @ 4200, 232 Nm @ 2400 and you wouldn't gain by revving over about 4600, where the Nissan starts power at about 4200-6000 the Holden has power at 1800-4000. Now I though maybe if I got bored and didn't mind getting passed down the straight by every car in the field I could run 2k cup so took it out to the track and couldn't even keep up with a stock 96 Sentra down the straight but in the corners it had the typical skyline style handling although it definitely needs more camber and maybe a toe adjustment. Ruapuna lap in 1:57 which would place me in the back 10 of a big 2k cup field. Will I change the engine to a bigger one.... I doubt it but I am likely to make some upgrades but not sure what. VK is first cab on the rank for an upgrade after I finish the Starlet but after that...... What are your thoughts of what would you would do?

The gear drives used to be colour coded, unsure of the replacement parts but they match the diff ratio and wheels

I am with others. The 3s-ge has a pretty good learning ecu in the lower rev range, cruising = lower revs. The only change done was an oxy sensor which from description several had the same error prior. Could it be wiring? when warmed up it leans out?

It was good to be working on the Starezza again. I have a bit more to do, top arm and otherside brakes but

Got the mounts on for shocks, bottom arm and springs today after spending some time making sure all the angles were good, Still to do: The brakes don't quite slip over the axle wheel mounting plate so they need a mm or 2 taken off them and modify the brackets to suit. The top adjustable arm needs mounting after the adjustable Panhard rod is mounted which also needs me to fabricate a chassis mount.

Something I hear often by people who obviously have either very little mechanical knowledge or are just trying to sell a noisy engine is that it has a the typical noisy tappets. A good Holden engine is typically very quiet as they Hydraulic the pushrods onto the rockers. I think I may replace a couple of lifters as they haven't gone quiet like the rest. It is an easier job in a Holden 6 as they have side plates to get to them, remove the side plates and the tappet cover, remove the pedestal & pushrods, replace lifters & pushrods and torque down. put side plates back on start engine and if quiet, put tappet cover back on. My plan is to clean up a spare head(mild port) and get it ready for bolting on, add efi flows and a 600 holley on a modofied black carby manifold. You may laugh at a 600 holley with vac secondaries but in actual fact it will be a 4-barrel which will only ever uses 2 throats so actually a 300cfm carb. It is lying around and I have used this on a 6 before and it delivered very punchy performance to about 4500rpm which is what I am designing the engine for, mid-range. If that fails I will throw on the 450 4-barrel.

It should rev to 4500 ok but they were never overly responsive but that can change depending how much you want to spend While the flywheel is out is the time but it depends what you are after as it will add revs and make the engine more lively. Can't remember the cost. These engines can be made to easily rev 6000 but safer to stay under this as they suffer from harmonics at 6000.

Sounds fair enough, you going with factory cable clutch or after market hydraulic? Hey just thought of another thing you may want to do while going manual. I did this a few years back and it made a difference in get up and go and with the VK still a relative lightweight should help you. Oh and include a dowel in the flywheel or you may have issues if you plan to rev them hard. In the Video the last flywheel which turned has the dowel and the EST pickup

I am going to ditch the EST as well on my 86 factory manual, you only need a vk flywheel if you didnt want to ditch it as they have protruding dowels which the magnetic pickup triggers the spark. Very nice car mate, mine //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48894-efi-lcs-1986-vk-commodore/ Remember YT for 12-port is very expensive unless you are lucky enough to find an older cast iron one but these heads can have some mild head work and stock flow close to the mighty XU-1 heads. HP is easier and cheaper to get for these old irons than almost any other engine around. If going manual I advise not to use the stock 5 speed as they are shit and unless you are very careful will break or lock or destroy synchros or crunch in gears or..... I am aiming for a healthier output but will work on torque not hp.

So I found that the tappet cover was leaking so removed the tappet cover and cleaned as much sludge from the top and took about half a margarine container of muck out of both rocker cover and head. Put a new gasket on and and bolted it back on with no leaks now. Next will be a filter and oil change using diesel oil. I have some spare lifters If I can't shut these ones up and the Holden has side covers so you can do this without pulling the engine apart. And if the lifters are not quiet by 2k then maybe buy a new set of lifters at about $9 each, Oil pressure is good for a stock engine and quite possibly just as good as new. This is distracting my main mission so I am in a hurry to sort it out so I can get back to my Starlet

small list of need to do stuff before I am happy to sell the bmw. If anyone has a VH dizzy I would like to buy it. Leaking somewhere into the boot from the inner guards, possible it may from the rain channel on roof and going inside ? I will check with Rare Spares as they will have seen this before. drivers seat back is a bit skewed and needs a straighten, common on these. wheel alignment needed fan replacement coming up as well wipers blades Getting some double-sided tape so I can do the trim. Also need to paint it all matching. I dont want to go near a carpark until its on as some fuckwit will open his door on it 1 rear tail/brake bulb needs replacing Gearbox/clutch is shite at the mo, going to pull the clurch cable and lube it to see if that helps and the gearbox may need decent oil. All else fails I will pull it out and throw in my W55 as it has a Holden 6 bellhousing

I just picked up my new Daily Driver and will sell my trusty NZ new BMW 535i Manual so if you want it pm me and join the line as I have 3 interested so far. Anyway. VK Commodore 1986 (First Registered 1987) Some call these a VA as the A designates the last of the VK The Last Holden that used a Holden 6 3.3 Carby motor Manual 5-speed 137,000kms (116k by the original owner and prior to the guy i bought it from 2 owners were father & son) Full seat and door trim I need to add some trime which 90% of it came with the car It has had a full bare metal paint The engine needs some TLC as it has some sludge build up and the carby floods when turned off

Estima Diff was narrowed 80mm to account fo the TRD Kit and different offset for the 15" wheels. Made a decision on the diff setup, decided to change to panhard rod for now instead of Watts Linkage mainly to see that I have a good setup for this and can do the other later when I am happy. I welded on the bottom mounts to it and banged in some new springs to raise the height a little, just need to weld the spring mounts on and then the single top adjustable arm which will mount over the tunnel. Still need to make the arm adjustable yet. Once the diff is in then I can mount the rear discs on and check for final fit. I am making this a multi-sport car so have put the highest profile wheels on to get it setup. My mate came around on the weekend and cut all the excess wiring out as well as making the loom for the guages and another for the obd2 which I will use a touchpad for using. I bought an Aluminium EVO Radiator and I am waiting on a new intake pipe so it clears the radiator before installing it and changing the airbox.

I have some welding to do over the weekend. Once I have the Diff back together then I jack up the car level, then position and measure the diff weld the bottom mounts then work out where I have to cut the new holes and mounts for the coilovers on the diff and the body. I plan to have a single centre adjustable top mount and Watts Linkage similar to the bottom sketch except replace the panhard rod and the coilovers will be a bit high mounted

Trailer all finished and wof and rego. Since these pics I added a few things like tie down rails underneath, spring locks and a couple of pins to hold the ramps in place. I have now started on my Narrowed Estima Diff with Nissan GT Brakes.

Choice, work. Yea that's my thinking of the F axles. I will do some measurements on the weekend

I have a bit of knowledge in hardening but not with axles. Unsure but could the estima run out of hardened material? I plan on making the diff about 50-60mm wider than the starlet to help with modern offsets and larger wheels I like your pics on TM btw. An Engineering shop here will weld fatter axles and I will find out

I reckon I could get past the step but if I do who does them and I have heard that toyota axles are hardened which is the outside and not sure how deep it goes and they are quite big steps, will it make them soft. I don't want to spend money on that to last 6 races. I am pleased to hear about the Torsen good track work as I have one sitting next to the estima diff. cost $330 all up. I plan to run Nissan gt rear brakes and Nissan 280mm 4-pots on the front I may have to do a bit of cutting out the back of the old girl and remount with coilovers and watts linkage or the easier option panhard rod. I have a lot of designing to do over winter

Bumping an old thread but i has some awesome good info and it is relevant to what I want to do. I want to shorten an F Estima and throw in an LSD I thought I might try an Altezza Torsen as starters and it might actually teach me how not to spin the back wheels while I save for a better diff, what I would like to know, am I dumb or what? Best way or person to narrow a diff in Christchurch? Best way to shorten the axles, welding I hear is ok for axles this size, what price to spline or will they be too soft? Any info much appreciated. Oh it,s all going into my Starezza as I have decided to build a better doff and throw some decent stoppers into it before my track launch

I ran out of Gas this morning so couldn't finish the Trailer this weekend although I have other things to do at least. This shows the boards I will use I am putting 2 bolts in each then drill all the holes ready as I can't put them on until I have finished with the tilt points. The Tilt points are a back arm from a VN Commodore cut and grafted. I made a couple of boxes to weld onto a cross brace which will have gussets, when in the down position it will lock with a couple of spring loaded pins.

I am going to use some builders scaffold planks recessedfor the car to sit on. I will also tilt it using some old Holden Suspension arms, then the lights I got off the old trailer, I picker up a Jockey wheel from Supercheap, I also grabbed a 3000lb electric winch just in case and I have a transporter for under $1k. Steel was less than $400 Hub kit was $109 Winch $87 Wheels free, and I have spares Donor Trailer $150 (Lights, axle(used the drawbar), springs, coupling and wiring) Planks $44 x 3 = $132 Bolts to hold the planks $25 Channel Iron for under the Planks $18 from the scrap merchant. Tilt mechanism free Gas and wire for the MIG Still got a bit to go but I reckon it should be worth 3 times that when I paint it up

And then the other part of the Project was a Trailer.... I have a Donor for Springs, lights, couplings and few other things, I was going to use the axle and hubs but as its Ford Pattern I decided not to and bought brand new HQ Hubs as I have heaps of wheels here. It will tip amd double up as somewhere to work on the underneath of any cars.