keltik

Just get a bigger hammer and get it done.

Holy shit! Is that the ECU in that bottom pic? Or did you install a 1980's PC for sweet gaming? Its fuckin hoooooge

I have a 195-55, not quite perfect but may help? I'll just shut up now.

I'd quite happily throw it in Jeff2.0. Then again, i'd quite happily throw it in Jeff Mk1. I foresee a problem with this project. I like this car.....maybe even too much to strip the interior. So i think for the time being - i will just mod it up and keep it road legal and complete inside. Later down the track/next year I can reconsider making it hardcore.

Jeff2.0?

New windscreen sorted. None of the trim fits very well but thats because Smith&Smith did it. Brake booster and wof next. No rugby on tonight so might have a go at tidying up the engine bay for Mr Wof man. 5macks - might catch up with ya after work?

$300 for a pair of Znoelli S6 rotors and their 550degree pads. The S12 are now heat treated compared to when i bought my last set so the price has gone up. Would probably be closer to the $480 mark for discs and pads.

Been reading about the dry sump setup from pace. Found this really good article http://www.canong3.co.uk/pug/mi16pacedrysump.pdf Seems like a good bit of kit but i wouldnt be keen to have the tank all the way in the boot. Anyways - thats further down the line. I think id rather do an accusump and baffles.

Cool good info. Will have the G4 in it within a month so no point worrying about chips or crabs. Will do more research into sump baffling and sway bars next as these are likely to be the first 2 mods. Priority list; 1) WOF 2) New brakes 3) Weight Reduction 4) Oil pressure gauge 5) Baffled Sump 6) Wire in my G4 7) Lower and stiffen with sway bars Everything else i want to do can wait until ive thrown this thing around a bit and decided what it needs.

Yeah but that doesnt answer the question either, since a million and one internet mechanics will say "sure that worked for that particular motor but so-and-so use different castings/clearances/metals/magic that need a different run in" Everyone seems to agree dont nana it. Id say thats a good place to start and just make the rest up with whatevers convenient.

Good article, cheers for sharing. As tempting as it would be to shine it all up nice and pretty, im not going to. I do agree with most of the points in that article tho. It does drive oustandingly well.

Should really focus on more practical things first. Like driving the shit outta it and making it stop/turn as good as possible.

Used semi's are plentiful for 17s. The 15s were about 20 pound per wheel cheaper. Didnt ask about 18s as had no interest.

A set of brand new 17x7 Compomotive MO5 wheels would cost me about $1200 shipped. Far too tempting.

Yeah looking at the back of the car theres not really a good place to wham a big bore, so will roll a nice pipe with dump tip instead. Or a twin tip. 3rd to 180 doesnt sound ideal at all lol! Im used to running out of 5th at 210kph.

From what i know, the grease thing is correct, then once built you just wind it over on the starter with plugs out till you get good pressure.

Quite keen for the Znoelli rotors over anything else since they are relatively cheap and seem to be a much better casting. The 2 sets ive had on my wagon were outstanding and the flat rotors on there now are a disappointment. I mean really, $260ish for a pair of decent slotted rotors is cheap, might as well. As for exhaust stuff, ill think of something creative.

So yeah i bought this thing; And im going to turn it into this thing; Things I Like; * It looks manly but 'cute' at the same time. * It isnt full of rust * It isnt a Subaru * It has the most awesome head ever * The steering is responsive and the car corners exceptionally well Things I Dont Like; * The clutch is set in concrete * The interior. Period. * The intake is just poor. No sugar coating it - its just a poor design. * Gear ratios seem a little long for what the car needs. Maybe this is because im used to my Subaru having completely the wrong gearbox in it. * The engine is a bit sluggish to rev. Again - maybe this is due to me being used to the GT30 which is pretty snappy. * The electrics seem to break and fix themselves occasionally. Nothing a hammer cant sort Things Im Going to Do; * Remove interior * Fit buckety seats * Bolt on my spare fart cannon * Get it all road legal (might do this prior to any of the other things). * Buy some wheels * Lower/stiffen it a bit with some new sway bars * New brakes, wonder if Znoelli do a S12 rotor to fit these.... * Wire in a Link loom so i can swap my G4 between cars whenever i want * Run ITB's of some description * Sticker it up to match the above BTCC photo except make most of the decals audio related. I can then use it as an advertising tool for my shop and my suppliers might pay for the signwriting. Comments and suggestions welcome as always. Aim of the game is to compete against Brad in the OSTCC. France v Germany - how could i lose?!

Factory motors are usually assembled to much better tolerances with better fitting parts than mr average joe. Plus everything is new and rings dont have to contend with partially worn bores and metallurgical differences from years of heat cylces and contamination. Ive never had to run in an engine before so i have no opinion. Actually i lie, i ran in a few 2smoke outboards for my old man. Procedure was always the same. Run at 75% rpm, max load. The common denominator seems to be lots of load but not max rpm and no lazy idling or cruise.

No engine in the front at the mo. Sold the 2.2

One of the johnny bee brumbys...not THE johnny bee brumby. He has many. In fact, if he wasnt from waimana he would have more brumbys than toes. As this diagram shows;

Yeah pretty much, spacers up front and clocked torsion bar in the rear with brumby shocks. Should get it high enough to do most things.

Integral/monocoque, only inferior ass backwards manufacturers use chassis/body configurations.

I think we've got a date to go out there and hit things with hammers. Come along for lols if you wish. I reckon we could have all of the running gear swapped in a day, then maybe another 2/3 days to get it all going. Everything should bolt up since they share the same chassis and the entire front end is identical.

Well no cunt bought it for a dolla, the scrap man wouldnt give me much money and it aint gonna be roadworthy any time soon. So this was the best idea other than have a wank