yoeddynz

OK cool. whoops...a pun.

cool- yeah i sort of get it. good with watts and volts but add resistance and my brain starts getting hot. I'll just get a resistor and put it in. if it blows it blows. Nup dave- no skid marks yet sorry.

should i put the multi meter between pot and gauge and see what current its drawing because the pot does get slightly warm? Maybe it draws something like 10watts?

Yeah I reckon sleeperish is a word. Its definitely how I want the car.

Yeah the carb is big enough. Elford converted about 500 cars and they received good press about the performance. Cheers zac for techno babble. What i did yesterday morning was buy a 0-500 ohm? pot from jaycar- all of $3.50 I wired it in series and so that turning it clock wise would make needle go up. Then I installed my temp probe on multi meter in side top hose. I started engine and when temp on meter read 40 i adjusted viva gauge to read 40. at 70 they were the same. At 90 it was ever so slightly out so I tweeked it as this is the important area. Now viva gauge was spot on I marked position on pot and will take it out, measure the resistance (was about turned about 3/4) and buy a resistor to suit. Now I also know that fan switch doesn't work. I took it out, put it in a pot on stove and it switched on at about 96! Bugger. I had bought it second hand from local radiator place and he thought it was a 85 degree one. I'm actually not that sure what I should have the fan set to turn on at- I think 85-90 is about right on a rotary? photos... Adjustable resistor pot thingee.. Multi meter visible from seat.. The fan switch- is this a common looking style?..

Phew- that is expensive- well for one use. I'll pop down to jaycar and Penis smith and see what they have in stock.

cheers guys- yeah bloody happy and quite relieved- especially as its the first rotary engine I've rebuilt. Wasn't hard but just new things to learn and look for eh. Good meeting ya too Billy- will stay in touch about that cert man. A variable resistor- like something I just wire ine series and can turn a knob? That sounds good. Where? Jaycar?

Its a runner!!! I had given carb a check over, discovered float height was way off and wouldn't have closed needle valve properly! Re set that, after much searching for info on proper oil to run in dashpot damper and decided to go with 3 in 1 which is meant to be about the 20 weight required. Re-installed carb which luckily is really easy. Checked fluid levels which were spot on. Went to start it and no fuel to the carb from regulator??!! I removed a bung I had put over the rising rate vent tube on top of my Malpassi reg, it hissed and fuel was delivered So that was part of the problem then. Turned key. nothing. choke out. Vrrrrommmmm Here is the vid... Pretty bloody happy. The exhaust sounds good- not too loud. Biggest issue is the temp gauge- I have ford escort sender installed and it reads too high on viva gauge, like 40 when cold and off the scale before fan even comes on (82). Prozac mentioned fitting some resistors in line to drop the reading. How many/what resistance? And this being my first turbocharged petrol engine I have question on boost gauges.. my gauge reads vacuum at idle and then when I stab the pedal will go back up to 0? When should it show boost? So list of things to do are; Fit a filter. Fit my rev counter subtly under dash, Sort temp sender. Maybe install a decent after market gauge and sender? Fit a lambda gauge. Fit boost gauge. Cert car and drive. Very happy I am! Now back to housetruck work.... alex

Where did ya go for the wof? Bummer about the setback but at least you'll get it sorted now and it'll be good for the future.

Bloody useful link there Dave! (whoops...I swore. sorry) I have book marked it and will read in the morning with a strong coffee. I opened up the carb tonight and its really clean inside with out the usual signs of gum deposits from old petrol. I think that having put a plug on the float chamber vent hole didn't help matters I also checked the float chamber valve with my expensive float chamber valve checking apparatus...

I'll try Basis then. Full rebuild kit is 47 squid in the UK. I'll see what our NZ tax adds on....

If I'm out and about when you walk past and ya see me then sure, pop in and say hi Mind the smelly doggys otherwise.

Wow -everything is happening in blenheim all at once. Shit the farmers won't know what to do, pub bar might be 2 deep - and then there the air show this weekend as well. tis all happening!

I think I might have some- yeah I'll try it after checking carb out. Who does su parts in NZ?

Cheers man. Hey just been reading up on su hif carbs and there is a vent tube for float chamber.... which I had put a little cap on the seal it and stop shit getting in there I think this may be the problem and cause of erratic fuel delivery eh... I'll try it again tomorrow hopefully. The other thing I might check for is a leaky float.

Ether? come again.. I think I have some but its reserved for landing/snatching my next lady. Hang on- I'm getting my gases mixed up...

Ha- not yet I'm afraid. I just updated thread. Carb problems... But fucking glad it started first pop (for a second)

Ok- well it starts... sort of. In fact it started on first turn of the key after I had finished building the oil pressure up and turned ignition cut switch back on. But wouldn't run for more than 1 or 2 secs. With the choke pulled right out it ran for about 5 seconds and sounded good but then died. Then the SU carb would flood. Then it wouldn't let any fuel out through jet. then it would flood. Just to confirm it was fuel related I checked the ignition and all leads produced good enough sparks. I must buy new leads though, I'm using manky old ones, all I could find at the time. Next I checked the compression. My tester isn't a proper one for rotaries though which will give a reading for each face, its just a normal type which will show the best of three faces per rotor. I was getting about 90+ psi which seems fine. So the carb jet is blocked and or the float valve is acting the goat. Carb is now off and I'll have a look at some point tomorrow. Anyone on here have experience with these HIF SUs- I think its the same as on metro turbos? Did we in NZ get them? And where can I get rebuild kits in NZ for Sus? What sort of problems should I be looking for inside the carb specific to SUs? Im glad the engine started anyway! And its sounded nice and quiet ....from what I could tell. I hope I don't go out in the morning to find a big pool of oil/coolant/blood under car or something silly as right now I'm going to go to bed happy. I must say its strange to be starting a rotary without the usual stamp stamp on pedal and then start then blipping throttle for a bit till it warms up like with webber and nikki carbs I'm more used to. And its nice to have the engine back where it belongs- not in bits under the bench And big cheers out to Dave (avenger tiger) for driving all the way over from Mapua to help me with engine placement duties - good man! And thanks to Hannah for awesome pizza at lunchtime.

Engine is all built now. Hannah helped me with it and we built it yesterday afternoon- I bought some Hylomar universal blue jointing compound for the plate to housing faces as it doesn't set hard and allowed us to take time. Hannah getting sticky fingers.... This is the first rotary build I have done. It went well and was quite fun/satisfying The best bit I think was tightening the through bolts up and seeing the 0.75mm gaps between the plates and housings where the water seal O rings were holding them apart close up for a nice tight seal (hopefully...) It was tricky getting the middle plate in place- Hannah had to pull the eccentric shaft up 1" while I moved the plate into position. Looking back now I think it would be much easier just to have put a block of wood on table under shaft to lift it the required height but hey- thats learning eh! The worst bit was the bloody woodruff key for the oil pump- I kept getting pushed out as I tried to slip both pulleys on at same time with chain attached. Speaking of oil pumps- I had bought a later oil pump from a 12a turbo engine- it has 17mm wide rotors in it rather than the 12mm wide ones my engine had. I stripped both down for a quick looksie and my old ones show scoring from sucking up some crap in the sump- I would have thought the oil would go through the filter first..Nup. So I made sure the sump and underside of block was well clean inside before finally mounting sump in place. I also modified both oil pressure regulators- the front one I added an 1/8th" shim under spring and the rear one I took to a friends garage, used his press and squashed the top down. Both these mods will give 80-90 psi rather than the stock 60ish. So with my high flow pump and upped pressure the engine should be a bit safer for its increased power output. Front regulator... Rear Regulator... For the oil pump to front cover feed I fitted a .5mm thicker O ring then the standard Mazda item because the Mazda supplied one only just sits proud of the gasket. I have read of problems here where the oil pressure can force past the O ring and so dropping overall pressure. Some people fit the cover with out the gasket to squash the O ring more but I don't think there is enough of a step in the casting to hold the o ring in place under high pressure where as with the gasket fitted and surrounding the o ring it cant go anywhere. Tonight I gave the new centre plate a matching coat of colour ad went over the whole thing touching up where the paint had chipped while it was stripped. I'm using Resene water based enamel. Its more flexible to cope with expansion plus its resistant to petrol, oils etc. I'm curious to see how it'll hold up. Dave (avenger tiger) is coming across tomorrow to help fit the engine back in place- hopefully we'll start it up!

i think the victor 3.3 discs on mine are 10"- same as hpf firenza. Geoff- Do you know if princess calipers work on them too?

Thats great news then- cheers! I will do my best with all the bits there.

Today it rained hard so I spent some time in the truck cleaning the rotors and checking all the clearances... The side seal to corner seal clearance is meant to be be between .002" to .006" but one several I have maybe .002"/.003" more. I have played musical side seals and swapped them all about to try and get them best I can but with out going out and spending money on new seals (not an option as my money tree as died long ago) I am going to just have to deal with it. The way I figure this engine was a runner before it got frost bite and had it not had a broken casting necessitating a strip down I would not have known about any little issues like .003 extra clearance...Fuck I bet there are loads of rotas out there plugging away with all sorts of massive amounts of clearances that Mr Mazda man in Japan wouldn't be happy with.... So I gave up worrying and did something far more important. I polished the housings up... While I did this Hannah sat near the woodstove and built me a new wheel for my crossbike - she had a little helper. We have pinched one of mums kittens to keep us company.. I then gave the seal grooves a nice clean out and anywhere else that needed it like all the scum that had sat in the bottom waterways. I will give the front and rear plates a quick clean and tomorrow I will hopefully begin the buildup. I have some new seals from Mazda (fucking rip off artists) and will drink many a cup of coffee.

Cool- another Viva. I think its a great combo and I think I would have put a 4age at some point had I not got my 12A turbo so cheap. See here for another with 4age. viewtopic.php?f=17&t=25967 Ask Geoff about what works suspension wise. The front springs are fairly easy but as ya know those rear springs are trickier to find ones that fit. I think geoff has a set of 3.3 victor front hubs and brakes like mine- about as big as you can go on 13"s and should make your car do nose wheelies. Your sills look similar to the ones on my ex-race car vauxhall 'vulga'. I agree that once its low on wide steels they should look fine. Kudos to you for saving a rusty Viva btw. Most would scrap it. One day they may even be popular! I'm watching this one! Keep the updates coming. alex

that above is a nice truck.

Oh yeah i forgot to say thanks for mag when on phone. I like the fella who put Bedford TM cabs on kenworth chassis. I found this didn't sell last year. But no price or photos. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 435760.htm Edit; heres a F12 tractor unit for sale... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 610577.htm