yoeddynz

yeah that's them I think. They were mounted on a steel bracket iirc?

Thanks so much for the offer Stu but I think I'm sorted on the ignitor now. However- the info/ideas for ignitor possibilities is good stuff for future readers of this thread with similar needs. Heya cool- can you PM me a pic of the coils? They might be the same ones I had used in my Viva. I guess you had got them for your Maxi project?

I'm still chipping away at the small jobs. Like most of NZ its been pretty wet outside recently which makes being stuck in the workshop even more cosy. I took this pic the other day. My cosy setup. Drilling and milling jobs are the warmest right now Hence I spent a bit of time staying warm and making some of the big chunks of alloy lighter where I can. Starting with the rear plate.. Then the sump plate... To aid the retention of the sealant I machined in some grooves between the bolt holes on both the plates. I'll be using good quality 3 bond sealant but everything helps. So apart from drilling and tapping a drain hole (suitable plug ordered) and making some anti-windage sheet metal bits the bottom end is finished. Oh I also lopped off the remaining unused original engine mounts - bit more weight lost Heat management time. To keep the cam cover seals from the radiant heat off the manifolds I needed some shields. I have had a basic design in my mind for ages but keep ignoring the fact it had to be done because not the most exciting job. First off was to make some brackets to mount the shields to. A bit of 1.5mm stainless and some marking out. drilling and shaping.. A fold.. Now I had to do a second fold to form a tight Z shape. But my folder won't allow such close folds and I really want these to be neat, one piece items. So I made a teeny tiny press brake. Milled a block of steel out... Milled a bit of plate to suit... Welded it to another bit of plate and welded a bit of pipe atop that and pressed away. (I really am super happy I built this press !! ) Now I had the tight folded Z shaped brackets I wanted.. Tidied up.. Fitted in place... I then cut some 0.9mm thick stainless shields to suit. I think I can go thinner. Not happy with the weight of them... Remembered I have had a bit of titanium sheet kicking about since I was a teenager - my sisters old airforce boyfriend obtained it from from the airbase and i was going to use it to make a cycle bottle cage or something - when titanium anything on a bike was super cool. But I never used it. Its lighter, but not by much and too small in size anyway. But now I'll just have to think of something silly I can utilise it on in this build - just for laughs/bragging rights So I'll probably get a bit of 0.5mm SS at some point for the shields. But for now I have at least got something to deflect the heat. They bolt to the brackets and will have some sort of heat resistant phenolic spacers to help prevent heat soak. Bolts were tigged in place.. Shield in place... Next up was the pipework as mentioned in the last post. I cut the old one up and carefully welded its shaped end to some stainless pipe. Not super pretty but happy as the OE pipe was less than a 1mm thick so it tested my skills. Then I started building the pipework in bits... I got as far as there and had to stop because not enough bends to complete the path I wanted the pipes to go in - I had used two bends for the exit from the other head. More bends are on their way from China as I type. Moving on to the next job I'd been putting off which was to make a half moon trigger/phase wheel for the cam angle sensor. I had already made a bracket to suit the Peugeot 307 hall sensor and knew the diameter I needed to start with. I rummaged about the steel racks and found a suitable piece of 3mm thick plate. Plasma cut a disc from it... Then into the lathe where it got a big hole sawed out from its middle. Much quicker than drilling and boring... Then bored out to final size - the process of which created a nice pretty lathe snake which came out of the lathes spindle... I carefully marked things out, drilled some holes and mounted the plate to the cam wheel. Note my lovely warm workshop/homeless person gloves. The bolts will be changed for countersunk items - the dome headed ones protruding just touched the reinforcing ribs within the cambelt cover.. The camcovers are well overbuilt and wont be in danger of getting hit in the back of a car like they could on a motorbike anyway so in an effort to make sure there's plenty of clearance I milled the ribs down.. I'll mill the slots out to suit on the trigger wheel and will add the remaining bolts (just in case 3 wasn't enough). It'll have half of its circumference machined down, with a corresponding amount in weight removed from the other side just to make some sort of effort to keep it fairly balanced. I bench tested the Peugeot sensor I had picked up from the wreckers - its a dud. Probably what sent the car to the graveyard considering the prices that the local NZ suppliers want for them. A new one is on its way from overseas. I have also ordered quite a few other little bits. New terminals for my injector plugs and a crimping tool. I'll be ordering other terminals to suit the various plugs that will be adorning the engines injection and ignition system. I want to create a loom without any unnecessary extra joints. I have never used a proper crimping tool as such. I got a set of little stainless tools for dismantling various connectors. Already used them and quite a breeze compared to my old screwdrivers, nails, pliers methods. I need to suss out a suitable idle control valve. On the Mazda V6 engined Viva I gutted the original Mazda throttle body mounted ICV and machined up a nice little alloy housing to suit its PWM solenoid, so creating a remotely mounted ICV. I'd like to do the same but I don't have any Mazda TBs kicking about and there's also an abundance of cheaply available copies of Bosch remote ICVs available online (with good reviews) so I'll think some more about this bit. My ignition setup is coming along - big thanks to @fletch who is posting me a Mitsubishi GTO ignitor module. I'll most likely get a Mondeo/Jaguar v6 coilpack for the ignitor to..ignite.. So many different brands The sticker list on the side of the completed car will be long. 'This car has been brought to you courtesy of the following' .. Hillman cars Honda Goldwing motor Subaru transmission Honda civic clutch plate Subaru clutch disc Honda civic alternator Subaru starter motor Ford Mondeo clutch release Honda crx(?) throttle body (thanks Chris ) Nissan Micra injectors Mitsubishi ignitor Jaguar ignition coils KMC bmx oil pump chain Lego Mandolorian inlet manifold plenum guardians

@fletch that would be superb of you! Thanks so much. Would be perfectly ideal for a mitsi coil or one of the ford mundano V6 coil packs I have in mind. I didn't actually know these ignitor existed. Just did a quick search and found this info... https://www.stealth316.com/2-pwrtransunit.htm That mitis ignitor module has just what I need because it leaves the ecu to control dwell etc (which if my memory serves me right is about 3.6 ms for the mitsi gtslow coilpack I'd used in the Viva) I'll send you a PM

yeah - that's what 'd like to create. The old bip373 ignitors worked so well on my Viva with a second hand mitsi GTslow coil pack. So looking to re-create that setup with easily available parts in NZ.

Cheers. I've been looking at those too. Someone on the MS forum had mentioned them. I found this interesting site on modifying them which shows how they are put together... https://vr6coilbracket.com/2011/02/11/how-to-install/#jp-carousel-197

Ahhh yes- Cheers HandofWayne. I had already found that thread a while back when looking. I'm not sure if no thermal protection is a big deal, especially if like you say I can use fuses instead. So yeah - this one you've linked to could be the go.. Details here.. https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/detail/onsemi/ISL9V5036P3-F085/2509749 I've only just setup an account on RS. Not looked into digikey yet. I presume joe bloggs can create an account and order just a few bits ? That thread is for the 'lesser' models. I'm running a ms3x I plan on building the same setup I had on my Viva V6 - three ignitors mounted to an external heatsink separate to the ecu. It worked well. The barely got warm. I won't be asking much of them, same as on Viva it'll be a 6 post coil running wasted spark.

@gibbon ask @kws just how much difference a wideband can make - if only to economy.

I don't think so but I can check. I think I'd have remembered seeing them because I was sifting through my little box of speeduino bits a few nights ago.

@h4nd ... cheers. I was after 3 bosch BIP373 ignitor drivers but its seems they've been out of production for a while. So the new alternative is this... https://www.diyautotune.com/product/coil-driver-kit/ But postage is excessive. So I looked up OnSemi EcoSPARK IGBT and found them all over the place but there's various different models and my brain started to smoke when I tried to work out what to get. Like this... https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/igbts/2410728?cm_mmc=NZ-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_NZ_EN_Fallback_Whoop-_-(NZ:Whoop!)+All+Products-_-2410728&matchtype=&pla-293946777986&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnf-kBhCnARIsAFlg492mG4wDqPoHH3pRLzCB_sjehTvm24w4QkREUBR61FSGuxw4wSha4ooaAhzoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Please make some big cone titties..

Nice wheels!!!

I'm very excited about this decision you have made. Going to watch this unfurl with much interest. I've got popcorn and everything. Also - is this some sort of Rothmans liveried racy transhit...

I never got a chance to go look today so it's a Saturday job now. But thanks for the suggestions so far.

But thanks. Its definitely sounds like mechanical banging sort of thing but I can try the injector plugs. I dont have a 'proper' scan tool but matey boy down in the village does so I could try that.

Fella came by our yard yesterday with a 1gr-fe powered prado making a terrible valve train clacking sound on the drivers side bank. I didnt really know anything about these engines (until I did some research last night that is) so at the time I suggested it could have a collapsed follower/lifter. That's what it sounds like. He took it home and had pulled the cam cover off but can't find anything amiss. I've found one video online that has the same sound.. I'll try to get out to have a look at it for him later. Anything else I could check other then turning it over and checking the valves are at least all there and operating. I figure I should be OK to pop the cops back on and start it up for a few seconds without the cover - see if I can locate the noise. It will be messy I know. Toymotor experts please chime in with sage advice @AllTorque etc etc

It is a lovely colour I must agree

I'm just going to put this here...

It's Italian isn't it. Yes - I can certainly point you in a direction away from me... If you do happen to get it, not saying you will, but if you do I'll pop over for a look/laugh.

Yes @downtime I believe we all at oldschool want to see @ThePog get his car back

Yeah that's a no go on imps unless one was to change the outer joints from hooke joints to cvs - which would be quite a ballache. The imp driveshafts failing point is the small diameter along the length and they twist. A problem that was solved with the larger 1" diameter imp sport shafts. They are hard to find at sensible prices though. I'll be joining my scooby shafts into the imp shaft as close to the uni joint as I can and run a sleeve on top as well, so increasing the diameter. I don't think either Damian or I will have issues with failure given the fairly modest power we are expecting * *and then he goes fitting a supercharger (a Bart-charger)

I'll be interested to see what he says because I'm planning on doing similar between my scooby and imp shafts.

Good boy.

I think the answer is simple...... If it works for Jay and his RC10- @Valiant would agree.

Not sure. He posted it up on the nz impers facebook group ages back. I don't know if he's got any further than sitting it on a bit of wood and taking a photo. But yeah- lots of room. Looks like some sort of quad bike diff in front? How do leafs go in reverse- I presume the motor just runs in reverse? Set that up and then just stash 386 of these in any available space about the Imp you can... ETC ETC...