Raizer

I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure knurled rollers are made for flux core wire?

V for solid and U for softer wire like aluminium.

Just now, Jusepy82 said:

Question guys ..

How accurate is the setting on the door of weldings. I know this is a "guide". Tonight I turned down the wire speed and hey presto my welding was way better !

 

Ballpark to get you close to start.

Mazda B2000 with LSD in it, failed WOF on dragging rear wheels/hubs (among other things)

Figured it would be drums dragging or something, but with the brakes completely removed I've got to use a large amount of force to turn either axle, feels like brakes dragging still.

But what's slightly confusing me is if I turn the pinion it's easy enough to turn by hand (left hand even), still a bit more resistance than say the open diff in my Hiace but nothing compared to trying to turn a hub.

Unsure WTF it would be, thought maybe wheel or diff bearing, but my parts ute isn't any looser.

UniMig = Xcel-Arc in NZ.

I still rate my BOC AC/DC tig highly.

https://www.boc.co.nz/shop/en/nz/boc-smootharc-200-acdc-tig-welder-boctig200acdc-p-111

7 minutes ago, Kerry-TGI said:

Where's the build thread?

Can anyone see any cert issue with swapping out Merc "Airmatic" suspension for a set of these?

Rev9 brand.
There is BC options too, either look to be a lot better quality than the D2 or YellowSpeed options.
Would have to run lower rear control arms from a slightly different model Merc (C211 arms into my C219) and leave the height sensor linkages in place to keep the ECU happy.

VTNZ will recheck at any branch.

Dunno about any others though.

5 minutes ago, 63Ragtop said:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/mazda/rx3/listing/3723948347

I didn't think RX3 wagons were real?

 

Very real, just kinda rare.

RX4 wagon was a thing too 

1 hour ago, ajg193 said:

Holy heck, I just put that same VFD on my machine (in a box though).

Took some doing, but I turned the head of mine around and added a box

Fibreglass worked for Mopar

18 minutes ago, anglia4 said:

Something about that front end has just looked unbalanced to me and I've stared at it for ages trying to work out what it is...

Are the forks on the wrong sides? - So the calipers should be underneath?

Gargoyle Grease CN Medium is recommended where surrounding conditions are dirty and dusty. Applied cold by means of a paddle, it maintains an adhesive, tacky coating on the gear teeth. When contaminated with dirt or dust, it does not form hard deposits that may pack the clearance spaces at the roots of the gear teeth. The dirt laden grease squeezes from between the roots of the teeth, carrying away the grit and leaving the metal coated with a thin tacky film of lubricant

That's from an oil gear information book I found, probably not much help in narrowing down exactly what it equates to in modern terms.

/I've used motorcycle chain lube spray on exposed lathe change gears with good results, they just fling oil everywhere ha

Pics aren't showing in your last couple posts, google isn't an image host for hot-linking.

16 minutes ago, RXFORD said:

Where are you in Nz?

I'm down in Gisborne, but try to get to Auckland fairly often lol

That's what I'm starting with, pretty solid just a bit rough around the edges, but the parts one is already paying off with a lot of small bits mines missing etc.

Will double check both utes tomorrow, but I think I'll have a good pair of hinges to spare from the parts one

It didn't come with a grill or any of the front lights besides the headlights, mines got a pretty much new clear drivers corner light and this mess on the left

Still digging your B2000/it's inspo for mine ha!

You wouldn't happen to have any prefacelift front end parts left over would you?
I'm in need of a lh corner light, mine has turned to dust.

Oh and I'm guessing your sorted for extra-cab parts? I picked up a parts ute today and have no use for anything that doesn't fit a single cab.

17 hours ago, ajg193 said:

Those exposed terminals give me the shits, I assume you will build an enclosure for the VFD?

 

 

Wasn't planning to, I was thinking some tape over the terminal slots might not be a bad idea though.
It's mounted to the back of the mill and the plate it's on should deflect anything flicked back that way.

*The higher voltage ones are inset pretty deeply in their slots, the exposed ones at the front are all the control terminals, highest power found there is 24VDC.

The one for my lathe will most likely end up in a cabinet of sorts though, planning on having it under the bench the lathe is on so much higher risk of shit ending up getting to it etc.

There is continuity between the ground input and the heatsink, so I grounded the motor's lead ans shielding to the plate I've mounted the VFD on, since the plate is sandwiched between the foot of the motor and it's mount I likely didn't need to bother, but meh.

Took a bit of head scratching to figure out the control wiring and programming to match, got there with a lot of input from @chris r and some trial and error though.
Checked it with a meter, it's getting 228.9v from the wall and at 72hz it's outputting 467v, so a decent step up!

No odd sounds/smells, not getting even warm so I'm calling that good.
My mill actually has torque again now haha

Lathe motor is ready to go in now too, just getting together the switches etc for the control panel.
Turned the flange down as far as possible without loosing the lugs for the bolts that hold the motor together, tapped the extra holes to move the feet to where I need them etc.

Nflixin VFD arrived today, first impressions are is it feels like decent quality but it's also a LOT smaller than the Parker it's replacing!

"Senries" lol

Instructions (included and online) all say to use E, R and S for the input terminals, the Parker is wired the same way.
But I noticed that the S terminal was missing the screw, so I pulled the one out of the T terminal (used with 3ph in models) and used it in the S position and yeah it didn't work at all.
@chris r agreed with my idea of ignoring the instructions and commonsense and wiring it up with E, R and T, powered up fine like that so might be something to keep in the back of your mind if you get a Chinese VFD.

It doesn't have any earth terminals for the output at all either.

And since the Parker is now spare I started getting the small 3ph motor from @Galant2 ready to go into my lathe, just needed to have the little bridge bars moved for 220v input and it's duel foot and flange mount which isn't going to work with the space in the back of my lathe.





Very slow going, it's not wanting to take more than a .5mm cut and even that's a bit of a struggle with whatever metal this is cast from and my dying single phase motor struggling to even start let alone turn this.

I really hope their vehicles aren't any indication of the skills taught, @chris r and I found one of their Hiaces at pick a part, still fully sign written.

Barely held together by rough patches stuck on with seagull shit haha 

29 minutes ago, BlownCorona said:

i think there was only one gen tiida?

Think it's 3, but the last gen is just a Pulsar with Tiida badges for China and Russia etc I think.

Sweet, will look into Belltech/other options I think.

Just the package price for CT spindles, blocks, balljoints and shocks etc was rather tempting haha.  But I'm too lazy to do a @GuyWithAviators and swap out all the suspension for every WOF so want to be easily certable.