dwlee

You can get away without resizing the rods if the rod cap is located by means other than the rod bolts such as dowels etc. In the case of 4g63 rods the caps are located by the rod bolts.

If you change the rod bolts the rod should be re-sized.

The original pre-balanceshaft 4g52 i.e. dizzy driven off the crank, are quite a bit better than the later balanceshaft motors. However, they do take a bit of work to get the best out of them. To add to the list that Fuel has already given you is to install electronic ignition (either aftermarket or from a late 74 early 75 GTO) and possibly swapping in a 4g53 crank from a canter truck to get a longer stroke. One thing to note is that you can't use a later 4g54 crank due to different diameter main bearings (pre1978 4g5X 66mm versus later 4g5X 60mm).

Sorry, don't know, but if you gave them a call I'm sure they would tell you. I wasn't aware that the 4g93 lifters had the same problem as the early 4g63 lifters?

Try STA Parts http://www.segedin.co.nz/ as the prices listed (if accurate) are significantly cheaper than off trademe. The ones for the 4g93T are listed at $6inc gst each giving the total of $96 for 16 versus the trademe price of $265.

I would say clear of most Full Range Class-D amps however, Pioneer PRS-D4000F is supposed to be reasonable good amp.

So the question you have to answer is why does the buzzing go away when the engine is off if only the left channels are affected and swapping the rca cables makes no difference? Try swapping the speaker wires left to right over at the amp. If the buzzing swaps sides you will know that is the amp and if it doesn't you'll know that it is the speaker wires or the speakers. Also, measure the resistance to ground of the speaker wires with them disconnected from the amp. Another thing you might want to try is to wire the speakers directly from the head unit just to make sure it is the amp. If your amp only cost $80 and you can't fix it yourself buy a new amp.

Does the stereo buzz at all when the engine is off? If it does then a bypass capacitor will not likely help. However if the buzz goes away with the engine off then what I would recommend is http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp ... BCATID=669 as it is easy to install.

I had similar problems with a GTO where the cast manifold (4 into 2) joins to a pipe 2 into 1 section before joining the exhaust pipe proper. I tried a brace (original), no brace, flexi section, new 2 into 1 pipe section, surface planing ....etc. The joint would only last about 4 weeks Max It didn't matter what I did until I threw the cast manifold away and made some 4-2-1 headers. I have not had a problem since (3 years) . Did your old manifold blow in the same place as the replacement you are now using?

I have seen 4g92 mivec engines fitted rwd drive in an LA Lancer (major firewall mods) and in an Escort (do a google search under mivec escort) so since the 4g93 block is basically the same it is possible. I know it will be more complex than fitting a 4g63, but I don't by how much. A 4g61 block is basically the same as the 6-bolt 4g63 accept they don't have balance shafts fitted and deck height is 6mm lower (hence the 4g63 rwd water pump will not fit). The difficulty level in fitting a 4g61t is the same as fitting a 4g63t.

centre to centre is 87mm

Take it to someone who knows what they are doing such as Arrow Wheels in Kelston.

Sorry, don't know if the loom are the same. I used a 4g61 oil pump assembly as I had one available and being factory you can be confident that it will be reliable. The parts numbers that are used in the 4g61 are given in http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html.

I have a factory 4g63 AMG computer MD150413 if you are interested. The extra power is mainly from the cams and the computer as Fuel said. I would have bought that engine on trademe if it had come up 6 months ago. I ended up using a vr4 block, 4g61 head (small ports) and oil pump assembly (no balance shafts), Kelford 264 cams, high compression pistons and evo4 inlet manifold with adapter.

Nice looking 16L! The Starion struts will bolt in (ball joint has the same taper), but you will end up with positive camber. This due to the different king pin angles between the 16L and Starion that are needed due to the longer lower arm in the Starion. The advantage of the Starion struts is much better brakes! For information about getting old colts to handle you should try http://classiccolt.forumcircle.com/ as there are guys on there who still race.

I am in the process of finding parts for similar 4g63 NA motor. I'll be using a 4g61 head for the smaller ports. The standard valves of the 4g61 are the same size as the 4g63. The chamber volume of the 4g61 is smaller than the 63, but I'll be increase the volume to reduce valve shrouding. The balance shafts will be removed using 4g61 parts. I will replace the rear cam angle sensor with custom hall-effect based system off the inlet cam gear. I am undecided if I will move the water outlet to the front of the head as it will take a bit of experimentation with head gasket water hole sizes to achieve even cylinder temperatures. Anyway, the inlet port size difference between the 4g63 and 4g61 can be seen in the photos below. 4g63 inlet port 4g61 inlet port

Looks great. What offset are the wheels? Also are you sure its a 4g63 as the top photos show a 4g52.

Great work. I know a couple of guys thinking of doing the same conversion on their GTOs. Any chance of more photos showing the pain in the butt stuff at the back of the head? Also, is the paint standard mitsubishi, if so do you know the colour name and code? Does anyone know of any cam angle sensor for the 4g63 that is located at the front of the head? I have read that a version of the RVR has one at the front, but I have not been able to confirm this. Can anyone confirm this and if so what year and model. Thanks.

I once had a similar problem. It turned out to be a clogged fuel filter.