dwlee

The originals will be the standard fixed (non-retracting) 3 point type. There should be a mount point near the floor directly under the roof mount and the other mount will be on the tunnel about a foot behind the hand brake lever.

The rear vision has always been an issue with these and I haven't seen one yet where the demister hasn't been damaged from cleaning. I'm going to have a go at repairing one of mine while the rear window is out.

Great looking GTO. If your motor is an original non-balanceshaft 4g52 be super watchful on overheating as those heads will wrap on a drop of a hat. Also, if your engine is a 4g52 you shouldn't need a electric fan as the mechanical fan should be more than up to the job. However, if you have a 4g63 then the mechanical fan will likely be too far away from the radiator to draw enough air through the radiator. For an alternator/regulator try http://www.aespares.co.nz who are in Henderson.

Which window seals are you after, the one that attach to your door card and are in the inside of the glass or the ones the clip onto the chrome trim on the outside of the glass? The ones on the outside you can still get from Mitsubishi or you should be able to get something from either RA Johnstone http://www.raj.co.nz/ or Basis http://www.basisnz.co.nz

I suggest you have a look at the Fuel system chapter of the Hobby Car Technical Manual, which can be downloaded for free from the hotrod website as the sample chapter. See http://hotrod.org.nz...ical_Manual.htm

I have the same head if you look closely at the photo I posted, but with a 6-bolt block. The flange on the jayracing adapter that mates to the thermostat housing interfered with the pulley and hence why I had to modify mine. If you make your own adapter that is longer it should be fine as long as the wall thickness isn't too excessive.

Just measured a fwd water pump off a 6bolt and its shaft is in the same position as the rwd pump. Yes, you have to move the flange to align the pulleys when using the rwd water pump with the DOHC pulleys. I'm not sure about the older V belt pulleys.

Fuel is right in that the rwd water pump flange has to be carefully pressed off, flipped and pressed back on to the correct level so the pulleys line up correctly. The pump body also needs a bit of machining to make room for the timing belt and tensioning parts.

I'm sure you could modify to use V belt, but I think you'd have to end up using a smaller diameter pully as well. I've also seen photos of them unmodified, but the block may have been from a 64 or it could have been that in some heads the hole is higher in the head. However, all the heads I've measured (95 RVR 7-bolt, 6-bolt big port and 4g61 small port) have the hole at the same height. It could also be that the centre of rotation of the water pump varies significantly model to model? The water pumps I've tried are from rwd 4g63 Sigmas and Starions. I suppose the easiest way to tell if you have an issue is to bolt the water pump on with pully attached and see if you have an unrestricted view of the hole.

Below is a photo showing the modification that I had to do to the jayracing front water exit to get it to clear the rwd water pump pulley.

The jayracing part interfered with the rwd water pump pulley hence I had to modify it to fit.

Which parts are you after, the metal brackets that attached to the block, the rubber mount that attaches to the cross member and metals bracket or the metal bracket that constrains the movement of rubber mount? For the metal brackets that attach to the block any rwd 4g6x will do the job. The rubber mounts and constraining brackets are chosen to fit your cross member, so your current ones maybe fine.

Yes, L200 that had a 4g63 are the same.

The 1.6 heads are not especially rare. The front cas trigger wheel and cam gear of the RVR turbo will bolt onto any 4g63 camshaft, the difficult part as I said earlier is the mount for the sensor on the head. At the moment mine is on a Kelford 264 camshaft. The factory cams to use are from an AMG 4g63 (very rare) and the next best choices would be from a non-turbo 93 or newer RVR or from a VX-S galant.

That's right I'm not using the 4g61 head, I'm using the RVR head instead due to the front cas and the evo 4 inlet manifold port matches without having to use an adapter to take into account the shape differences (port centers are the same).

The Gold isn't mine. The link was just over twice the price that megasquirt you linked to. Power output would depend on a lot of things but all things being equal and using those high compression pistons the max power should be about the same, but improved mid rev power and torque.

The are available on trademe, but read this thread viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25078 first. I have never built one myself and if I was going to go megasquirt I'd be getting one that had been assembled by a reputable manufacture. ITBs can run batch if all the injectors are after the throttle plates, but it is usual to run them as sequential. Thanks, its the one next to the gold in the earlier photo and is pretty much original

Your engine will have 21mm pins. The 22mm pins are for 7-bolt engines such as the evo and rvr. The 3-4% is in torque and it is not necessarily peak torque. If you are going to run wasted spark and carbs/batch injection then you only need a crank trigger, however if running sequential injection then you need some way to determine where the engine is in it cycle e.g. tdc for cylinder 1. You will also have to decide what sort of computer you are going to run as that may effect what sort of trigger system is needed. For some ideas on trigger systems see this thread http://www.projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=978 and you may want to investigate megasquirt. The trigger system I'm going to run should allow me in theory to run a factory computer, but I'll be using a Link. Originally I was was going to use a custom trigger system on the inlet cam gear using a Haltech S3 hall-effect sensor with four magnets (3 south pole + 1 north pole facing the sensor), see photo below for the mounting system. However, the RVR head came up so I changed to using the factory system.

Go to http://www.staparts.co.nz/index.php and search under the part number PS2074G63M21 020R for the pistons. I will be running an RVR head with the modified evo 4 inlet manifold with coil on plug direct ignition and sequential injection. For the cas I'm using a combination of the RVR front sensor and a kiggly racing 6-Bolt crank trigger sensor see http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/cranktrigger.htm Sequential injection is said to give 3-4% improvement in torque and better fuel economy over batch injection. There should be minimal difference between wasted spark and direct ignition all things being equal.

The valve diameters are all the same, but material may vary. See the photos below showing the difference in the port sizes in the inlet manifold flange with the different heads. VR4 top, 4g61 bottom Vr4 top, evo 1-3 bottom (modified evo 4 manifold actual, but the ports are the same) I'm not to sure regarding the pistons, but i would expect you would have to change due to the different valve reliefs positions between the sohc and dohc heads. High compression (10.4:1) cast replacement pistons with rings can be got for around $210 from STA see http://www4.eaccounts.co.nz/eOrder_v1.a ... um=130639#. You don't necessarily have to replace the cas has you can use a bfh (not recommended) on the firewall or recess the firewall, but you will have to remove/modify the heater to get enough clearance. Replacing the cas depends on how you are going to run the engine i.e. wasted spark with carbs, wasted spark with batch efi or individual coils with sequential efi. For the first two you can make a crank based trigger, but for the 3rd a cam based trigger is required. I'm using the RVR front cas sensor so did have to modify the firewall, but I did modify it slightly anyway just to get a bit more clearance to make working on the engine a little easier.

Any of the dohc heads will be better than the sohc head. The main choices are: 1] a big port vr4/na 2L galant 89-92, which are lacking in mid range torque compared to the smaller port heads. 2] a small port 1.6L mirage (4g61) 88-91?, which have smaller ports and the chambers are slightly smaller giving a slight increase in compression. 3] an evo 1-3, RVR 91-96, which have approximately the same port area as the 4g61, but are a different shape. An evo 4-6 manifold can be adapted to fit as the ports are the same size and the throttle body is pointing towards the front. The heads in 1] and 2] are use the same diameter head bolts as your block while 3] use smaller head bolts and hence the holes need to be enlarge with particular care with the oil feed. The RVR turbo head 95-96 is the one that come with the front cam angle sensor, however all can be modified to take this sensor see http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1g2g ... echtip.htm

One request please don't use txtish as it takes some of us old farts a long time to decode The outside skin shape and lines are good. The problem with the guards is the join between outer skin and the backing skin were the guards bolt to the frame. This joint is of a different thickness than the original metal and hence it takes a bit of work to get them sitting on the car properly. The windscreen rubber does take the chrome trim. I don't know there was a 16L front spoiler. FAR make a spoiler for the GTO, but I don't like it that much, see below. Why not use your current block since it a 4g63 and fit a dohc head, for info see http://www.projectzerog.com/sohc-dohc.shtml and http://forums.austarion.com/viewforum.php?f=13 but note that the Starions are wideblock while your current motor is narrowblock if it's using the original gearbox. The original gearbox should be strong enough if it's in good condition, the engine remains non-turbo and you don't drive like an idiot. The issues you will run into with a dohc swap are; bonnet clearance with the top of the timing belt cover, firewall clearance with cam angle sensor and the water outlet, need for custom headers, electronic spark control if using carbs. Bonnet clearance issue and solution. How the dohc 4g63 engine looks in a GTO's engine bay Using a RVR turbo head solves the cas issue and note the block-off plate for the rear water exit. Using the 7-bolt RVR head required the head bolt holes to be enlarged to fit on the 6-bolt block. That's about all I have online at the moment apart from the photo below which shows the gives a hint of the front spoiler I made. I'll have more photos and info when I get round to putting up the project build page.

Can't help with the price of the fibre-glass guards, but be prepared for a bit of work to make them fit on the car correctly. Front window gc/gd rubbers need to have the sides trimmed and rejoined to make fit, but the top and bottom are a good fit. Don't know about any of the other rubbers.

I can't help with someone to recondition the steering box, but have you tried adjusting the box and checked the oil level? The oil wont fix the play but will stop them wearing out as fast. If the adjustment is maxed out a recon/re-shimming is in order.

The project car is slowly making progress, hopefully it will be off to the painters soon. What I have got left to do before that happens is finish replacing the fuel lines and tidy up the air dam. There isn't a build page, but I'll put one up at some stage.