FLAWLES

ha nah the trans is pulling a code but thats something different.. mmm i seem to be checking the fulid level wrong i do it once the car has stopped now that i know this i shall re check

brand spanka why what are you thinking my son?

mmmmmm i do remember me and E whipping the valve bock out to change the inhibitor switch and rod ( due to the new box having a bent one ) wonder if its a sticky vlave body then???? oh nah i can select reverse and D but you have to rev it at 3000rpm to move at snails pace, but its fine when its warm and shits normaly and drives fine go manual?

nah in the factory oil cooler theres no temp sensors there. what i think is the go is this..........having thought about it with some food in my tummy the factory cooler is at the bottom of the rad ( inside it ) i have added another 300mm of hose on the inlet and out let ports to connect the new cooler up to the old trans lines, and to this all off its mounted higher up on the outside of the radiator so what i think the cause and effect is that after time the transfulid is slowy draining back into the trans, cause remember i drive this car about 2 days a month at the mo,so on stat up it has to move the fulid back up the lines to the cooler and then back to the trans with out knowing on how fast the pump flows on the a/t i dont know how fast the fulid flows adding the new cooler in series with the old cooler in my mind would most likely do the same things

really??? no shit???? also said instructions also tell you that it is safe to bypass the factory cooler so your point is?

mmm was thinking it may have been flow yip bypassed the factory cooler, didnt want to run in series as like i said it was in the bottom of the rad and wanted to take away as much heat soak as possible

mmm cooler is a 9 row i think of the top of my head but its tinny

that i did brew and the factory trans cooler set up ran directly into the radiator, this idea was jut to move the cooler away from the rad to aid with cooling, weather or not they have a factory thermostat in the lines i dont know, and would have to say maybe no they dont

right-e-o my auto trans plays up when its mega cold, doesnt want to select forward or reverse warp drive its been like this ever since i put a trans cooler on now when i put the trans cooler on i started the car up, let the engine and trans get warm while selecting 1 2 3 and D holding it in gear for about 2 to 5mins in each gear stoped the car put it back down on the ground, checked fulid levels and topped up again but nah its fine when its warm, but it takes a while for that to happen, cause you can sit there in the drive way and rev the tits of it ( with in reason ) and go no where any ideas? i should just ring sam lol

did the c31 come out irs?

try this you have 3 weeks and 4 days

Dont worry to much about that nylock nut comin as and most fastner shop will have it on there shelves man i love reading you updates keep up the good work

pending aye i scored mine on t/m for 300, pple freaked out due to not having any wiring or diagrams but all it came down to was a power wire that was missing look up HDI on the net they make some techo stuff for cheap

get this dont care if any body thinks there rice they work they work dam well http://www.blitz.com.au/SBCiD.html

oh you mean this http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/product.php?p=144 so sweet but soooo dare

with out causing a massive shit fight here i am couriuos as to why you are saying port volicity doesnt work steve? i cant find the article on the suzuki swift gti's but these things are pulling masive power out of there 1.3 n/a 4 pot doing this exact thing and that alone proves it works lol im on a mission to try and find this dam article, maybe its in a mag that i have EDIT not the one i was looking for but this has to do with bike engines so weather or not you can apply this to cars i dont know intake porting http://mototuneusa.com/think_fast_intake_porting.htm port velocity http://mototuneusa.com/homework.htm sorry brad for spaming only trying to help mate but may be sending you down the wrong path

here are some links not the one i was looking for tho http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0 ... ocity.html http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm? ... 416&page=1 here is a calculator for working it out too http://www.wallaceracing.com/lpv.php

this may be pointless but i will post it any way few years ago i was reading something somewere about port velocity ( sp check ??? ) on suzuki switf gti's in oz that were pulling 11 sec 1/4 mile out of a 1300cc n/a engine ( and i know its drag racing but thats what that article was about ) and what they were doing was making the ports smaller in size now i should say i cant remember at what end of the port they were doing this, but it worked i cant remember all the fine points and im trying to find the web site as i write this but i am having no luck they also seam to do it motorcycle engines

ha you will be able to do it all over again at my track day too hes coming alistair you will be fine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MN0u7yhl ... r_embedded that one lol

yesterday at puke? man i have seen one of the gtr skyline boys youtube vid for that day, my god he was twiching all the way done the pit straight, lots of counter stear, then massive spin in the esses f'n lucky that you got away with the damage that you have puke looks simple but its a unforgiving track in the wet and in the dry

shit i reckon its only a ca18 lol would be way less hassle in my opinon to slap a 3t,your box drive shaft etc should bolt in asap/simple as to the 3t but each to there own good luck with the bulid keep us posted

or this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 785917.htm everything there

either which way your going to have to mod something to fit but like fuel says 3t would be the way to go where abouts are you located?

i have used him via t/m good dude to deal with