tortron

You would have to run it through a model T gearbox

If you recessed the engine you could get the crank pulley inline with spindle. The back of the engine would be behind the dashboard still Would have to lose the heater tho, so your call

I like everything about this

Except not a load.bearing part of the frame And also.within limits (probably)

Design is fine Execution/quality of material/QC There's billions of OEM ones going 20 years on them no issues

I noticed a small.leak on exploder a few weeks ago. Small leak untill I touched it and the bottom tube blew apart and dumped it's guts on the driveway lol But yea also one I had go was split plastic. Both being 20 or so years old

I for one am shocked an appalled by the quality of the cheapest bike on the market My jap gn250 didn't have any frame issues and I treated that like shit

Plenty of factory rads are aluminium with plastic ends.

More that they were spattered, and that the paint wasnt stuck to the flux. But yeah got crack the whip on those 12 year olds with cardboard masks

Only.just noticed it tonight, haven't even ridden it since lockdown. So sent an email.and pics to the dealer to get some convo going and go from there

If it was the exhaustount broken I would be like yeah that happens Not the frame tho, that's not ok

Never been raced m8 All those roads are on the map

So I think Suzuki is Gona give me a 2020 model Can't even get 12 months out of a frame

Engine cover on the floor of a van

Stick some dynamat type stuff on it and some heat reflective stuff on top

Your bed seams have been shave too

Managed to unstitch this corner without ruining any of it. It's rusted right across, but I think I can save the curved corner section and bend up a new roll pan. Don't like the rough box pan bent number plate recess, so might make a long one and smooth it out. Other side is good enough to leave on. Won't unstitch this end any further. It's mostly good and I will inject some rust converter in the remaining seams

No I lied. I'm Gona chop the rest up too There was a couple of raised rusty sections in the bed floor at the front and rear, oddly half the spot welds aren't there so that was the cause. Went ahead and removed the rest, these are the cross braces that mount to the chassis. Not too bad underneath, but they are on top of both layers of the bed sides. Could have probably slipped a thin cutting disc between them and clean it out I guess. But there's also some deep pitting on the edge of these sections where the b d sides mount. Barely anything holding them in, so I may as well remove and replace them. Will keep them as flat panels rather than get fancy like the dodge beds. This will come into play later also.

Soz, I linked you because of getting plate from all black fan

@kyteler

No mitsi ownership then eh If there was replacement wheels it would be all G. I didn't look too hard tho

I use the green mytools ones from trademe. Couple of bucks each, come in packs of 10. Last well, can cut them on sharp edges, but that's the way it goes Also the tip roller on my 2nd one is starting to get loose. Looks like you will go through 2 per rusty mitsi

You are lucky that there's no underseal on it. My Morrie was similar, just paint and light dirt and surface rust. Did it in a weekend. Very ok get some good sealing goggles My Ute has underseal on it and it's that much more of a ball ache, at least I can turn it on its side

https://www.classiccaraccessories.co.nz/products/lucas-type-dynamator-c39-c40?variant=20563314376792

Get a full sheet, less hassle trying to get it Then sell half for max profit