corrupt

Ive had to remove the standard fan which runs off the waterpump to make way for the supercharger drive belt, which ment i had to go with an electric one. I have one all mounted up sweet now and now thinking what is the best way to power/hook it up. Its a 12v one off a ae111 levin, looks just like the ones from supercheap. When ive hooked it up to the battery to test it, it seems to blow an awful lot, much more than i reckon it needs to blow all the time, so was thinking of getting a large resistor or something to drop it down to half speed (6v) for normal driving, and have a switch inside the car to increase it to 12v when in traffic etc. Ideas/recommendations?

personally id put enough coats on to get a full even coverage, then one or two more quick ones, yeh that plasikote stuff will be fine, have used it before.

you only mist it on, on the last coat of base to even the metallic out.

the sierras powersteerign used a single v belt, im using a micro v (5) belt as thats what the charger has on it. its all gravy anyway, spoken to an engine specialist he reckoned the custom pulley i have made up will be fine to run and the weld looks to have worked well between cast and steel. will be remaking the exact same pulley as this one has a crack in the cast item which i was not aware of spent hours on it ffs.

this is badass, dad used to have a shitheap yellow one, sacked out in its ass low as fuck cause it was filled with tools etc.

when i arc'd these ones together i used mild steel electrodes, and its mint for strength, so probably just mild steel mig wire?? im gonna be borrowing my mates mig so will have to get the right wire etc

took the pulley to this good cunt at a engine/driveshaft balanacing place he reckoned it would be sweet as balance wise, and everything looked good on it to be able to use it. he also said that balancing of this pulley would be the least of my worries, as the rest of the engine isnt probably in balance to start with. then he noticed a crack beside the keyway on the factory pulley and suggested that i got another couple of pulleys and redone them this time maybe using a mig welder for a tidier weld. thats what ill be doing once i get the setup running mint.

hmm im one of them tight ass cunts, someplace prob gonna wanna charge me a pocket load to even look at my arc'd together pulleys if it is out of balance what are gonna be the side effects?

oh is that with those guys on the subaru forum? was kinda keen but not really keen just right now, cause itll prob be a while before ill be needing it.

chur bo3

ok, seems to be a good idea, can anyone reccomend some good cunt/s in auckland which would be able to balance it? rang a industrial bolt/nut place today, they said they the highest tensile they have is 8.8 and they are used on buildings etc so the bolt i got will be fine.

how much you getting it for? am currently looking for one i thinks

im sure i can get a better bolt off the shelf somewhere, will ring these cunts tomorrow and see.

thanks man, might actually go see these cunts "Manufacturing Suppliers Ltd (MSL)", just up the road from where i work.

How big's the bolt? standard one is m12x1.5 40mm, new one is m12x1.5 50mm edit: bolt also holds the pulleys with a fat as washer, 40mm diameter and 5mm thick if that matters to what you are thinking.

the packet they came in says high tensile, and has the letter B on it which might be a different system my main question of all this is, how much pressure is actually on a bolt which is just holding a pulley in place? no real strain is on it when engine is going, only strain would be the torque setting, which reminds me i must get a torque wrench, been guessing for years

yep balance is one thing, i done this as good as i could myself, if it turns out shit and i run into problems with balancing/welds shit, ill prob just go down to pickapart get another two pulleys for 10buck and get an engineer or something to do it for me. the factory pulley is a heavy piece and the pulley i welded on is less than half its weight/welds are pretty even around it. they will also be 99.9% true to eachother, both pulleys were the same diameter so was pretty easy to get them lined up in a vice.

didnt notice markings till i got them home etc, but think ill try get the right one for piece of mind. Anyone know of any specialised bolt/nut shops which could be the go, rather than mitre10mega where i gots this?

done a little bit of research ........................................................................8.8................10.9 Proof Load Stress, MPa ...........................600..................830 Tensile Yield Strength, MPa, Min............660 .................940 Tensile Ultimate Strength, MPa, Min. ....830 ................1040 think ill just use what i have for now and maybe try find a bolt with a 10.9 rating when i got time.

standard one is cast, the one i attached was steel, off a sugayru aircon/powersteering ot something. was the mean arc job but im certain itll hold.

Ive recently modified my crankpully which runs the waterpump/alternator, by welding another pulley on front for the drive belt of a supercharger in doing so made the factory bolt too short. I went out and bought a longer bolt as a replacement. my question is: The factory nut has a strength of 10.9 on the end and the new one ive got has a strength of 8.8, is this going to be safe? I would imagine there isnt that much pressure on this nut while the crank is spinning as they pulley is turned via a keyway and this nut is just keeping the pulley on the keyway? What do you guys think? Should i not worry and just chuck some loctite on the thread for good measure?

chevettes pwn now, would fully own one after seeing all your cunts ones on this forum.

do new cars come out with driveshaft loops?

Mag n Turbo gave me a quote for 13x7 superlites without tyres at $1350 from memory...not cheap I may have to set up a group buy in the next couple of months! seriously keen man.

keep it for sure. your a ftlnoob is you sell if for half what its "potentially" worth. skid pics a must