thminiman

The Neighbours kittens helped where they could.

So, I have a few mins, Will try and throw a small update here. Things progressed quite well over summer with the pressure of moving house in early april I had to get shit done! I threw the rear end back together, as i was doing that, I decided that the floor looked silly with the rear all painted up, So I stripped the body deadener off that, and painted that up. Then when that was done, I decided that the small patch at the back of the engine looked silly. So next minute the engine was out, As was steering rack etc and painted that bit up. At least its done now. Although, I just coated it in a thick load of chassis black, I couldn't really decide on what to do with body deadener etc, So i'll have to revisit it one day. While the engine was out, my stupidity took over and with the dollar being good, I spent another couple of hundred bucks and bought stuff to rebuild the front subframe. So that was painted up, new shock mounts, competition cones, lower arm bushes and a couple of other things I would have forgotten fitted. As mentioned, carried away on the intranets, ended up with a quick rack, this time. Chucked that in, reinstalled engine, got it all running, bled brakes and took it to the New house, happy days. The competition cones are a little thicker than Standard ones, the adjustable cones are at full low and the front is still sitting high by a few inches, So that needs attending too. Anyway, got it to the new house, chucked it in the corner and have since been getting raped at the university. so come break time I will get back into it. Assorted pics to come: I bought a lot of plastic bags Subframe off engine for painting, sorry for such poor quality pics These are the parts i got powder coated for the rear end, also included the radius arms. The finished rear wheel wells

Yup I saw that. What i was trying to suggest is; in that picture if you lift the end at the drive but hold it still, then lift the 'main road' end and push it out towards where it says 'box', then the container would be in the air, but pointing up the drive, then the forklift in the drive could back up, and pull the container with it. if the container was slung on chains from that lifting beam then the forklift could still be on the road while the container stuck out in the air over some unsuspecting blokes house or whatever. yea, pretty circumstantial on what is on the other side of the road. steepness shouldn't matter much forklifts have vroom rooms

Hello Mr steels long time reader first time involved poster, while it isn't related to current discussion I'm gonna drop this while I'm thinking about it. I was thinking about it last night and wondered if you'd been in touch with any machinery movement specialists or something? You could lift each end of the cunt ainer with one of these hooha's, swing one end out over the footpath/whatever is on the opposite side of the road, while the other one backs up the drive. Once the container is straight you could ditch the forklift on the property side and push/lift the container into position from with the lower one. NB: you'd need a bigger one of these and bigger forklifts which is why i suggested machinery movers. They specialise in moving shit 10x the weight of an empty container. Also it would depend on whats on the other side of the road Also if there was a street lamp there, that'd suck.

I haven't really followed this all that much so this may be a completely irrelevant post, but when I worked for F&P appliances, they had a container they used to lug around the world with all the latest F&P shit built into a kitchen display. It literally had one entire side cut out so that an internal russian-doll like box could extend out once in place and (almost) double the size of a normal container. It was pretty trick. the wall along that side was basically glass windows that they put a few thin (non structural panels along when transporting, I saw it being lifted onto the truck once and fuck me did the thing flex. The windows still didn't break though. Iv'e always figured with these that wherever you put in windows etc it would be easiest to frame around it with like 50mm steel just to get a decent appearance and make the job of fitting the window easier. That'd put enough strength back in to be legit surely. Especially considering the containers are designed to be loaded up the wazoo to like 26 tonne or something. Even a fully lined one with furniture laid out etc wouldn't be much more than a couple of tonnes. I had a look for pictures of that thing, I might have even had some on my phone/computer but fiddle me silly if i know where they are now. Anyway theres a link to shit press pics here if you can get the idea. It might still be kicking around, it was only 3 or 4 years ago. http://envycollection.blogspot.co.nz/2011/06/jealous-much-fisher-and-paykel-display.html PS. I highly commend/respect your project and will watch with great interest.

Like I said, I got carried away

$30bucks WIN!

SO with the subframe out I decidedI'd look into how shit they are made, a lot of the welding is pretty rapidly done So I decided it I'd seam weld it and maybe gussets a few corners. I made a workbench first. Then made a bunch of little gussets out of a shelving bracket. (Galvanised not ally) Sweet, getting the subframe Sandblasted as we speak, then will beg someone to weld it for me/let me use their welder. Then powder coat along with all the other arms and shit. I dont actually know where people normally do anything with gussets or shit on them, I just saw some inherent weakness on the rear cross bar so wanted to brace that a bit better, and also the triangular bits are for the front part to strengthen up where the radius arm's forces go in a hard corner. #Bullshit #Imagination #Hashtag This is my last easy week at uni before It gets into rape season, so would be keen to put back together in the weekend featuring Zinc coated parts being picked up tonight, hope they didn't lose any. Get in.

I am a cool uni student now, which meant I just had an unreasonably long holiday. I did a bit. I hacked up the firewall as previously planned. Pulled head off, checked all the seats, valves etc for damage, It was all good so back together it went. Had to anneal the copper head gasket so it was soft malleable copper again. That was interesting. Put carb back on, installed a sick D1SpEc oil breather modified to pit a bunch of stainless steel wool courtesy of countdown Home Brands. (both Items were cheap, bite me) I got an oldschool rocker cover with breather built in because fuck you. That spelt the end of the major work, until I was putting the exhaust back in and spotted a bunch of rust on the rear subframe. Decided the warrant man/Cert man would not like so a few minutes later I was all like So that shit, along with a bunch of parts like radius arms and backing plates will get the powdercoat treatment. Decided I'm a loser and dropped a hole other stack of nuts, bolts and small bracketry parts to get zinc dipped. Will update with results. Purchased another silly bunch of things from minispares.uk. accompanied by the few things I actually needed such as new subframe bushes. Will hopefully scrape away a few more Kg's worth of road grime and shit before the re-assembly begins next week before this sememester at uni gets too busy. Winner winner chicken dinner. It really is taking shape.

Yea Bike barn's stuff is pretty limited. Though Tbh sometimes their value for money is pretty good, I've noticed especially of you know what you're looking at you can find a good deal. As for componentry etc. I think part of it is inflation and that. Part of it is just greed. But the biggest part is Bikes and parts go through a lot of hands between the manufacturer and the customer. Little old NZ and it's wholesalers get pretty shit deals thanks to economies of scale which means sometimes we just pay more than everyone else. Good components are still made but they're expensive because so many people are getting their cut.

I has a new bike because it was too cheap to pass up. I also can't really ride fixed gear any moar so I wanted something sweet with gears. Schwinn coffee 2. Came with Big looping different bars but I did not agree and swapped them out. Also put some Metal flat pedals on so they don't break off with all the powers Shit componentry all round. Shimano nexus 3 speed internal hub with grip shift. Plan to add a rear basket: Then Ride until I break something, upgrade it. rinse and repeat. Better living everybody

KthnxBye

I spent 3 hours on the internet looking at these last night thanks to you. Please hurry up with another update.

So Whats the big idea? Is it wof'd Reg'd or dedicated off road Stz? Keep camp for lola, Should convert to DIGIcamo because No valid reason whatsoever Shitchat. Also I heard you want to do 42nd, shotgun.

this makes me immensely happy in the pants. Please install Aux drive

This car makes me want to be a better person

So I went to mitre-10 and found this on special So i went to the supermarket to buy some cardboard for a template. Made the template, made sure its all symetrical and shit using origami. Traced that shit and the big slice is to come.

Ha, Big Purps clocked over 200k a few years ago and started to get a few rattles/fucked shocks/everything. It was just as I was leaving to do some work and I decided to sell it before I left. I've lived in regret ever since. I later downgraded to a late model V6 Nissan.

Updated first post with some actual car Info's. Painted the bulkhead in some etch primer last night. Just gonna hit it with some black chassis paint by brush because I'm over it and it will look good enough. Want to get on with the real bidness ASAP.

So, weird story. I took the inlet off to tidy up bulkhead and cut hole out more etc. Was cleaning the paint off and accidentally pulled rag out of the port I'd put in there to keep it clean. Amongst the chaos a few nuts sitting on the scuttle thing under the windscreen fell down. I thought just onto the floor but I gave the inlets a cheeky finger and look to double check. Low and behold there's a nut chillin like a villain in one of the inlets.... Sweet as... No harm, no foul, right? Not so much because for the life of me I cannot find a place for that size nut and I am seriously beginning to suspect its been in there for a while. Including some decent running time. Basically since the engine build/tune. Maybe it's just been big enough to not cause any harm. It's definitely never stuck open in the time I've had it running. Fuck knows. Its got me diddled. So I guess I need to pull the head off and see If its damaged anything. My Main concern is damage to the valve stem will equate to a sloppy guide in no time. Going backwards already. Balls.

Build Thread - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38274-thminimans-1977-leyland-mini/#entry1077594 More information to come Discuss away

Fast forward three years oh hey b®oes. long time, no speak. so long story. I had some jobs, they made me exceptionally uninterested in cars. Mini basically sat in a shed for some time (3Years) after the engine build, only to be turned over/started up occasionally. I quit working at the start of this year to become a student. Now I like cars. I got the car out of the shed, convinced the flatties to let me use the double garage to get this bitch on the road. I used to work in engineering, had all the equipments at my disposal to finish this with great ease. Now I'm not working, access is difficult. Lesson: Hindsight's a bitch. Anyway, its close as, New master cylinder and Adjustable bias valves arrived from the UK. Needs some new brake lines Tidy up some Minor body work (bulkhead paint wrecked by brake fluid) Sort out the carb-riding-Shotgun Scenario by fitting a box to the firewall (already made just needs fine-tuning) Fit seats properly Suss dash properly around that box Fit epic d1spec catch cans Fail cert. Fix stuff Pass cert Win at everything else Dorts anyway. Pics will flow because we all know Pics or it didn't happen/Doesn't exist PS. Dont tell G-man or he'll seduce your mother.

Discussion - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38275-thminimans-1977-leyland-mini/#entry1077598 Body is a 1977 mini Leyland LE, it was originally purchased from the daughter of a deceased elderly lady, who’d purchased it brand new, when she bought it, she had the shell completely fisholened, to prevent rust, which was a fantastic thing for me as when I purchased it, the only rust was the bonnet and door skins, this was easily fixed and the paint job went on without a problem. It was used as a daily car until I decided I wanted a bit more go to do the fun handling some justice. Brakes: The original drum brakes where hardly up to the task of stopping the car, even with the relatively slow standard 1000cc engine, so I had always planned on upgrading the brakes when I upgraded the engine. So, after a fair amount of research into conversions, and weighing up cost’s, I had decided on what I wanted until something popped up for a price very near to what I would have spent on a much lesser quality and condition set I’d have to build up myself, So I grabbed them. -alloy billet four pot calipers -grooved/vented rotors -EBC green pads -1275GT brake hubs, -ball joints -CV's -braided lines -all brand new Only due to the 8.4” disc diameter, and the calliper over the top, they don’t fit under 10” wheels, which I was never all that worried about as im using 12” wheels. Some revolution 4 spokes in Black. Cool Suspension: The suspension is fully adjustable, from camber, to ride height, to dampening, to castor. The height is easily adjusted with the use of the high-low replacement cone’s available: The dampening is adjustable thanks to Gaz shocks with 28 different points of adjustment, they are about 1” shorter than standard, this is to keep the high-lows captive at a lower point. The front has all adjustable arms, the bottom arms are adjustable for camber, and the front tie rods are adjustable for adjusting the toe. The camber will be about 1.5 degree’s positive up the front, and somewhere between 0.5 and 1 degree at the back. The back is adjustable thanks to some tricky brackets that allow you to shift the angle of the rear arm. Carb: Is a 45 weber rebuilt by weberspecs and mounted on a 6” inlet manifold (all ported to size), with ram tubes and sock filters, there will be modifications done to the firewall, such as cutting section out, and building a stainless box to seal off, I will also be moving the speedo and other gauges to allow for the box, and will make up a custom dash to house them. The reason for the box, is because otherwise the carb will struggle to get air to it and it also takes pride of place in the cabin unless you seal it out. Exhaust: I then got into the mechanical parts, and purchased these very nice extractors, they are a 3-2-1 setup, with a 1 7/8”outlet that goes to a straight though exhaust with one coby muffler so it should sound extremely nice. Gearbox: fully rebuilt with new bearings and layshaft, best second hand synchro's we could find out of about 3 gearbox's and same with gears, diff is also rebuilt with new spider gears, hardened(competition) diff pin, new brass washer's for spider gears and fibre washers, meaning its nice and tight, not sloppy at all like the old one was. also has a shortshift changer kit. Cooling: Radiator is a brand new four core, i also have a 13 row mocal oil cooler but I'm not sure if that will have a place just yet. Engine: Head: head has enlarged exhaust valves, mainly due to the fact the origional seats where well worn, I am also running enlarged inlet valves (sizes I cant remember) all the ports are very well enlarged and are ground to flow a whole lot better, it’s fairly hard to explain, but there has been ALOT of metal taken out, around the valve seats, in the ports, and around the stem seals. I will be using brand new double valve springs, with a special locator washer, to stop the inner spring from rubbing on the valve stem, also original mini cast rockers will be used but they are slightly modified to stand up to hp/revs. Headgasket: (I think) most, if not all of the mini guys in the racing scene in New Zealand use A+ mini/metro engine's, meaning that, even when they bore the cylinder's out, they can still use a standard (ish) mini metro turbo headgasket, the only mod is a brass insert around the water jackets as there is not much space between that and the cylinders. BUT, mines different, mainly because I don’t have an A+ engine, which in this part of the rebuild sucks, because the space between the cylinder's is fairly thin, meaning the aforementioned metro turbo head gasket has some slight overlap into the cylinder, this, in some, or most case might have been sweet, which means, we are going down the path of a custom made head gasket, which is basically a thin copper sheet/shim type thing, completely copper, to be honest, I’m not completely sure the principles of how it seals around the cylinders and water lines, but I’m presuming it’s simply to do with the malleability of the copper. Block/pistons: bored to 1380, with triumph spitfire pistons. The pistons will be modified: the skirt needs about 10mm taken off, the pistons are also very top heavy, meaning some effort will be put into reducing the weight above the gudgeon pin, some may be taken off the top to reduce the compression, but this will not be known until we have a head gasket and have calculated the capacity in each cylinder. The rods will be slightly lightened and shot peened etc. Cam: Usually, Cam is a weird little man that lives in Fielding. In this car, it's a tried and tested profile, used in all the works mini's that race at Bathurst, exact duration specs I cant remember, but I think it might actually be a little less than some others, somewhere around the 282 degree mark I think. misc: new oil pump, new water pump, new clutch Crank: lightened 1300 crank. It’s about 20 thou under from memory, will obviously be matched with new bearings and so on Compression ratio: The compression ratio is estimated to be in the high 10's, somewhere between 10.5: and 10.8:1. Discussion can be attended here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38275-thminimans-1977-leyland-mini/

Stonefields big pimping fuck I heart this car you are the biz richie

One thing to remember that I have noticed towing is on shit like motorway or passing lanes and cunts go to merge in behind your car and cut it close, IE, cut it close to the back of your car not the back of the trailer they havent seen is there. It's amaizing how many people dont notice until late. I've had a couple of close calls towing mine and its not even low. That is morons in AKL though