crazy_rich

WooHoo update time!! I've finished welding the turrets in, With the shock turrets finally welded, undersealed and out of the way I got hold of some J30 maxima rotors and fitted up the rear brakes. I still wasn't happy with the ride height in the back, so I made up some lowering blocks to drop it another 30 something mm, They may be taken out down the track once the weight of the fully assembled car is finalised, but for now its giving me a much better idea of how everything is going to sit. I also turned up some bushes to locate the diff on the springs properly. Unfortunately I'm going to have to hack out the rear of the driveshaft tunnel to clear the diff head. I'm not too worried about doing this though I'm slightly concerned about having to move the seatbelt mount in the picture. It'll be worth it though.

Thanks for the replies, Those anderson connectors are intriguing. Are the actual terminals smaller than say 2g cable? i.e. would it pull out past a grommet tight on the cable? Gonna have to go have a play with one. I'm quite keen on the style connector mentioned in my first post as they act as both the connector and the 'grommet' through the firewall. Does anyone know where ring terminal covers are available? I think I'm just gonna have to find a local supplier for these vte world people. Some of these would be sweet for jump starting a race car. You'd want another isolator switch though.

Gidday fullas. I'm trying to find a way to safely run a live stud through my firewall to connect the battery in the boot to the starter motor on my engine. The reason I want to do this rather than go with the usual grommet is, I want to be able to unbolt and unplug everything at the firewall whenever the engine comes out and with the 1uz starter being where it is, this seems the best option. I've googled up the parts linked below, though im not sure where to source them locally. Does anyone in the trade have any idea where I could source something closer than the states? anyone else done this? http://www.vteworld.com/resource/html/pb_pt_compare.php http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/74145/10002/-1 Cheers

Gidday Greg, very cool car you've got there, I've always liked the idea of a 4age mk 1, you've pulled it off nicely. Regarding your strut swap, I once had the plan of swapping struts and running a skyline steering rack in my capri to clear the 1uz's front bowl sump. However swapping the struts and steering arms around will mess up your ackerman angle. Have a read of this. http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/ ... kerman.asp I'm not sure what escort struts are like but neither of my capri struts have a left hand thread, which would make me think escort's/ cortinas dont either. The wheel bearings should be correctly preloaded and secured with a split pin through a castle nut. Have a chat to Gaz, he has successfully done a rack and pinion conversion on his mk2 cortina.

http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=6255

I've started welding the new shock turrets in, they needed moved back slightly to allow the shocks to be run on the rear of the diff to clear the brake calipers. I'll be running some tramp rods on the top of the diff to hold everyting steady down there, I'll be interesting to see how well it works.

I had a go at putting some sierra cosworth saphire (2wd) brakes on my capri once, they are vented, 280mm dia 4 pots. Problem was, Sierras use a tophat style rotor like most jap stuff, so the offsets were all up the piss. You'd be better off following the tried and true.

I measured a standard 1974 2000gt diff. I'd say the mk1 v6 atlas would be the same width. Cant confirm however.

oh yep, capri facelift m1 is 1385 drum to drum, and about 1025 between spring perches.

I've found autolign to have a very specific knowledge base whereupon if you enquire to something outside of which they just spout bullshit untill they have you convinced to buy something regardless of whether its the best solution or not. Good at what they know though.

How many k's had your old diff done? you could always rebuild it with new bearings and a non collapsable spacer, making sure to set all the preloads properly. The diff you blew was probably 30+ years old with a million miles under its belt, if so its no suprise it started whining. If you are on a budget I'd say novelty of throwing burnouts everywhere will wear off rapidly anyway, I know guys racing escorts with standard diffs in them, granted they do eventually start whining but a diff is an easier swap than a gearbox. How wide are escort diffs? I can measure a mk 1 capri's length if you want? I'd heard the 3.5 gt capri and sport diffs had better bearings in them as well? can anyone confirm this?

Hey, I've recently bought an R33 gts to use as a nice reliable daily driver, though its making a strange knocking/ rattling noise under low rev high load situations, particulary noticable at around 2000 rpm in second gear when turning corners etc. I've instantly assumed its detonation and tried running it on 98, checked the timing, and reset the ecu. Still does it. I also replaced the plugs which were quite shot. Anyway, I've run out of ideas. Any one have any suggestions?

It could rough things up a bit to give the rings a chance to reseal. And perhaps ruin said things.

Last night I mucked around cleaning up the pcv valve and the oil seperator tank, my confidence of this being the problem were high due to the amount of coked up crap I managed to get out of it, However, I just took it for a squirt around the block and its still leaking, though leaking is an understatement considering the muderhouse style splatter marks all up the inside of the bonnet and firewall. My best guess is that its pressurising under load as the rings are not yet bedded in yet, though I dont understand why its not venting out through the oil seperator & pcv valve like it should. The next thing I think I'll do is what my mate who built it has suggested & fit an oil catch can and just drive it to see if it gets any better as it beds in. What do u guys think?

I've just done a compression test on her, its an even 150psi on all cylinders and they all take about 8-9 revs to get there, I'd imagine thats about right? The engine has had new rings, bearings, cam, followers, .040 bore, pistons, resized rods, re seated valves, etc etc. It was machined and assembled by a qualified engine machinist, so It'll have been done right.

Hmm jiff... nice. I just took it for a spin with the new oil cap on. seemed to be ok untill the way back driving it at 80km it just started smoking again. Is there any way it could be an oil drainage issue? i.e. the oil not draining out of the head quick enough and getting forced out the cap? If it was being caused by blowby I would have though the oil would be rather dirty, not nice and clean?

haha yeah true, A turbo would change things a bit. Thanks for your help dude, I'll have a play with the breather and see what I come up with, I'm quite paranoid the rings havent seated properly now though. ah well, what ever it takes eh.

No it doesnt have a plate under the cap. I wouldnt have thought a fresh engine would have any significant blowby. I've got an aftermarket oil cap with a much denser mesh in it, I might try that and see how it goes. And give it a compression test. I'd be livid if it needs reringed or anything like that.

Havent really pulled high revs out of it yet, but yesterday the leaking oil got to the exhaust manifold shortly after I dropped it down into 2nd to load it up a bit, I cant be sure how much oil had got out before then. Id imagine nothing would come out if I nana'd it everywhere, put it that way.

Hey, my corty has the above issue. The engine was rebuilt 2 years ago and hasnt done 20km since, took it for a ride yesterday and besides being sinfully slow it was all good 'till I started giving it some moderage herbage. I'm not convinced its positively pressurising the head, holding my hand over the oil cap hole it tries to gently suck my hand to it. It has sprung a leak like this before, about a year ago when my old man took it in for a wof, leading me to replace the o-ring on the oil cap. I'm thinking perhaps the crude mesh breather in the cap cant handle the mild splashage its receiving from the cam below it? Have any of you other pinto fiends had a similar problem? Also does anyone know of any mack daddy old school mechanics in Christchurch that are capable of tuning up an old weber carby? Its been rekitted but apparently I need the idle mixture reset with an exhaust gas analiser, which didnt come with my haynes manual. Thanks if you got through all of that, any help would be magestic. cheers.

I can see it being much more worthwhile persevering with the idea for a cortina to get rid of the steering box, I didnt feel so bad about ditching it as capri's have rack and pinion anyway, and there was a fair chance that I'd just make it handle worse, plus it wasnt worth the hassle at cert time.

I looked into doing a similar conversion on my capri once, to enable me to use a front sump toyota engine. What have you done about your steering arms? if you have swapped the struts left to right your ackerman angle will be wrong. http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/ ... kerman.asp granted you've probably covered this, otherwise its just a case of making sure your inner tie rods on the steering rack move in the correct plane in relation to the inner pivots of the track rods. I was going to have to lengthen the starlet rack somewhat to make it work, I'd imagine a cortina to be alot narrower than a capri however. I ended out throwing the idea in the too hard basket and made a rear sump for my engine.

Yeah theres no way I'd run fuel lines inside the cabin. I'm just running some 3/8 bundy tube up the rail kit, clamped every 300mm with p clamps. Brake line will most likely be run inside, along the tunnel. A standy 1uz will run mint on 5/16 line, theres just not much available aftermarket in that size, as its not usually an upgrade. The fuel lines would be in, However Im stuck waiting for my leaves to come back so I can see where the diff will sit to determine where to run them. Ive had a look at the alternator, and will most likely just use the lexus one, It'll need rebuilt though, and a bracket made to tension the belt as it will be the only accessory.

Managed to get the engine all together again, gave it a lick of paint, looks like new eh? Finishing off the wiring before bolting on the intake and slotting it back in the hole to fire it up. Still a few niggly things to do in the engine bay & fuel lines to run first though. Had some problems with the rear end, suspension guys snapped a leaf, so I had to find a replacement, should get them back this week. Has anyone bolted an alternator off a smaller toyota on a 1uz? was thinking maybe a corona or similar, mainly because mines rooted and an ls400 alternator is most certainly overkill for my capri with its wind up windows and lack of anything modern & electrical. Have to get some mounts welded to the new radiator too.

the rear shoes on my cortina had worn a nice groove into the drums that the shoes sat in, preventing the drum coming off. think i just unbolted the slave from the other side and gave the drum an almighty slaying with my not so soft face hammer, worked ace. drum brakes... pigs of things...