rwd_mayhem

such a tough car! you have obviously put alot into it and it pays off. seen it in the star (or some free newspaper). how do they find you for that? just pulled you over driving one day?

On a rwd 626 (guessing other mazdas will be the same, I will look at my mates series1 sometime soon) Im trying to connect my handbrake, on the bit where the 2 cables join to one is it held in by some sort of bracket? there is something connected to the floor which must have something to do with it. anyone got a pic of what im missing? Ive got just this bit and its not held on by anything.

epic car! so awesome!

So I got the motor looked at and half of it is completely fucked and unusable! gutted as! the housings have too much chrome peel and the back plate where it has been ported the bridge has been welded so i cant use that either! and i need a full rebuild kit as everything else is too warn so its going to be cheaper to buy a complete going motor and get it bridgeported and a freshen up. damn rotaries! at least im learning new shit. The brakes looked pretty fucked so i decided to replace everything, onto the series 1 struts go new discs, pads, wheel bearings, hoses and i got the calipers re-kitted. also replaced rear shoes and put new fluid through the whole system.

will have to upgrade fuel tank, lines and pump. and then all the wiring. also you may have to make mods to the head to get the injectors in there. depends what motor your using.

cheers guys this should be interesting. seen a pretty wicked looking brown today but i dunno... dont need any parts yet but thats good to know

nice start for a project, ke35's are awesome! If i had the money at the time that car would be mine. have fun with the rust:) are you gonna paint it? any plans for engine? or just k-series?

project discussion i sold my 4age SE and now have a new project, a 1980 626. never done anything to rotarys so this is a good chance to learn, comes with all 12a parts except dizzy (if anyone has one for sale im keen) BUT i have to put it all together, im gonna have to talk to someone who builds them coz the bridgeporting needs to be tidied up and just to get everything checked over. plans so far are to get the engine all built, paint car (thinking a dark colour, maybe even black) and put some modgies on it (modgies, rotarys and mazdas go together imo) anyone wanna buy the 17s and wheel adapters? anyway pics say more than words. what do you guys think?

where are you? if chch then go see the guys at Cliff Bonds on Ferry Rd.

first off all that is an awesome car, so mint and original. so whats the story with the magazine? so over there when a car becomes classed as historic you don't have to pay ANY reg/tax? funny how it says CYLINDER capacity, how do they calculate 1964cc from a 12a? or is it still regd as 10a?

have you looked at the ballast resistor? if the spring underneath is broken, then its fucked! cheap as to replace.

Got off greeny finally! ended up having to replace the whole rack, but im glad i did because the power steering works much better now. also got myself some new wheels - 13x6.5 ssr starsharks, look alright but they dont fill my gaurds enough. had to go for a cruise so took a few photos with my mates 1600 next thing to do is all to do with the wheels - get some wheel spacers or something to fill the gaurds, get some new bolts for the imitation 3-piece look and get some thinner tyres to be stretch-fitted on.

cheers man

i did and i must be blind, found out you need a 1600 xmember to put a 4g63 in, so 1200 and 1600 xmembers must be different so a 1600 wont fit on the 1200 xmember, but still dont know if a 1200 4spd will bolt up to a 1600...

my mate wants to put a lancer 1600 into his 1200 one, first question is will the 1600 fit on the 1200 crossmember? and secondly will a 1200 gbox match up to the 1600 motor?

that is a sick cruiser, had a bit of cancer aye. good work all round mate!

go into any parts store (repco, supacheap etc) ask for lowering springs for c32 and once they have found them, ask what else it fits.

I bought this car for $650 which i was pretty stoked about. standard AE70, 3AU and 4spd and straight away put sum cheap 14" mags on it. I thought the gap between tyre and guard looked a bit rude so had to lower it, also replaced big plastic bumpers with nice chrome ones and got rid of the fender mirrors. I ruined the rear guards so i could get the mags to fit. eventually decided the mags had to go, so got my standards white walled, then it looked awesome. Then i went and lost my licence, and decided to 4age it, i couldnt find a motor/loom/ecu anywhere so ended up buying a fwd at160 celica which had a running 4age. Took it out, sent the whole loom up to grotty to get cut down to something manageable. while this is being done i let my sister borrow my car, and she ended up smashing in the door, so had to get a new door too! ended up swapping the fwd 4age g/box for a whole donor KE73 wagon, which i stole the front doors off - they had mirrors which i was missing. and sold off the other parts. also at the same time got a ST141 corona diff, it was an aussie assembled one so had a borg warner LSD, got the mounts etc welded on to it and put it in also got hold of some 13x7 supalights cheap got it going the night before i got my licence back, exhaust ended at the extractors so the neighbours wernt very happy. so i drove it round for a month or two with half an exhaust, standards on the back and silver doors, eventually got green stickered for modification no certification - no big surprise. so became the big mission of getting it up to cert standard. went halfs on a KE70 wagon that wasnt going, i took the front seats which i got told were from a integra but turns out they are actually s14 silvia seats, also got 4 215/50/13 toyos with good tread. The rear was full of rust and the gaurds needed to be pumped out properly to get the supalights to fit. so got my mate to do it, did a very good job so with the rust removed i went for cert, i failed first time and had to tighten up the play in the steering, and had to get higher springs to get the 25mm travel required. a few other small things i did too. got cert and wof/reg after about a year of being green stickered. I drove it round for ages like that, happy with what i had done to it. after getting sick of how rough it looked i decided to paint it, so got a mate of mine who knew what he was doing to help. alot of sanding and straighting was involved also found something interesting, the whole rear quarter had been replaced previously also found some more cancer so replaced it with metal and boged over also pumped out the front gaurds so brush primed some bits and even more sanding finally ready for primer and finally primered, there wer still small dints so put this putty stuff over them and all painted up, after the primer there is a coat of mettallic grey, then a maroon then the red and finally clear coat. at the same time i put some rear levin bucket seats in it. also put in a TE71 fuel tank The motor was getting very tired so it needed to be replaced so i finally put together the two engines i had in the garage. The head had mild cams, adjustable cam gears, port n polish, and a head plane which i put onto a standard block, taking the risk that it was all good. as i had never done this before i was pretty organized doing it, reading the manual to the exact instruction got the old engine out cleaned up all the bits and pieces and replaced other things decided to paint the engine bay too, chose gloss black because its simple and looks good got the new engine all assembled and in, took a bit of fideling with the timing to get it running properly but is sweet now. So that motor had fucked rings so i ended up replacing them, big end bearings and head bolts. Currently green stickered and am half-way through getting it back legal - have been to vtnz and fixed everything it failed on, just to get a recheck sometime very soon hopefully.

but wen th lead isnt in the coil and the car is on(not running) it makes the frying noise, i have been told it could be the modular/igniter playing up.

in my ae70 my 3a-u is playing up, you can hear sparking when listening to the motor, and it is causing the car to lurch when driving. what could be the possible causes? its electronic ignition so no points, it sounds as though it could be coming from the coil? ill look at it at night sometime and see if i can see the spark newhere. now when the car is on(not running) theres a noise from the coil as if its creating spark when it shouldnt, sort of a frying noise, is it something to do with electronic ignition?

theyr all rip off cunts! the quoted me $600 to replace my loom in my escort with me supplying a new loom, i tried doing it myself, took me all of an hour, easiest thing iv ever done to a car.

thts real high profile shit!

50% of 215 is 107mm(ish) 70% of 155 is 108ish... hmm, yeah there would be a big visible diff i would have thought.... i see where ya coming from dude exactly visibly u can c tht the sidewall is much smaller but according to this calculation its around the same

yea but i still dont get it coz a 215/50/13 tyre will look alot smaller than a standard tyre (155/70/13) when u look at it on the car but on the site it says thers hardly ne difference

but if u look at a tyre say a 215/50/13 it doesnt look like the sidewall is 50% of the 215, it cant b tru