ProZac

Another stolen couple of hours in the garage this afternoon, shhhh, don't tell! Re-did a little bit of previous work, with is never nice. Much tidier result and this one will actually fit properly . Still have to put on the trim mounting bits, but that can wait.

Oh, and Repco/Narva can supply Deutsch DT connectors. Pretty spendy, and no banches will keep any stock, but just interesting to note. MSEL was cheaper though.

I've bought a bunch of stuff from http://www.msel.co.nz/ for making up sweet looms. Also, http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php has been quite useful for getting good quantities and differing colours of AVSS wire for in-cabin stuff. Haven't found a good source of GXL/TXL wire for enginebay stuff yet, but always keeping an eye out.

Couldn't resist taking another couple of hours off study today while the car mojo was flowing. Made this, it turned out pretty nicely: It mounts these: Up here, behind the glovebox: There is still heaps of clearance for the heater blower. Should keep the Fan, ECU, and Ignition relays nice and hidden. Fuel pump relay is getting mounted down in the boot to minimise the length of the power wires to it, as the battery is also in the boot. The original fuel pump wire can be used for the trigger from the evo V ECU, so no running extra wires the length of the vehicle .

Cheers Dan, I likewise think your eurobarge is pretty freaking tits . I was also not sold on the bronze with the red originally, but it turned out pretty well! . And yes FB, get your car sorted and we'll have a meetup!

Took a day off uni today and work on the car for what feels like the first time in ages. Got all the brakes re-fitted. New discs, pads, re-kitted calipers and braided lines at each corner. Needed doing really really badly as the brakes were pretty fucked when I got the car. Fitted an intercooler. I wasn't have a very good welding day, but its done and doesnt look too bad. Fills the air-dam out nicely, and you can see the pipe either side through the brake-vent holes, which I reckon looks pretty cool . A final shot if it looking moody in the garage. Engine is away at the reconditioners being bored to fit the .5mm over pistons. Plus a bunch of other stuff with them for cleaning. Hopefully might get it running sometime before the end of the year. I've got a wedding in december though... so that might be a bit of a pipe-dream, heh.

Hmmmm, with the atom are you planning to run the stock mitsy idle control stepper motor under the throttle body? It'll use up all 4 aux outputs. If you run wasted spark you could repurpose two of the ignition drives to do fuel pump and fans... But might be better to do a 3wire Bosch idle valve instead of the integrated mitsy one?

Nah: Star-trek demotivators are always trumps .

Ahhh so some air does move then, just not much. So you could almost say that the volume of air being moved around to fill the 'balloon' isn't much. Phew, glad we cleared that up.

Yeap, should be back to your original 10psi boost at the intake manifold, if that's there you move the pressure signal to.

By the looks of it, either of those lines should work. Doesn't need to be a massive hose, as there isn't much volume or air actually being shifted, and it has plenty of time to respond... That being said you might notice slight spiking of the boost level before it settles back to the natural pressure your wastegate spring allows.

If your wastegate pressure signal is coming from the inlet manifold, after the intercooler, there is no reason you should see a reduction in boost from fitting the intercooler. Are you sure its not coming directly off the turbo compressor cover? That would explain things.

Wouldn't be suitable for driving the odometer though, as they're pretty weak, and have internal stops at the end of their travel. I think we should have our own electronics section of the forum, BTW .

I did basically the same thing you're doing once upon a time with a mini speedo. I replaced the original odometer with a display though, so that part was much easier. I drove the needed with a VID29 stepper motor, straight from an arduino. Ive got a bunch of left over VID29 stepper motors though: http://guy.carpenter.id.au/gaugette/resources/vid/20091026113525_VID29_manual_EN-080606.pdf they're specifically for gauges, are internally geared to have a small degree of shaft movement per step. Run them with a proper controller, microstepping them, and you can make them completely seamless. Your's if you want a couple to play with?

One of the nicest dashboard in any car, ever I reckon, those humps, those humps, those humps.... Is it black of silver? Kinda hard to tell from the photo's.. I hope black .

Also, after having a good read about the factory cruise control systems fitted to VN commodores (V8 or V6), I'm convinced they'd be really really easy to retrofit into another vehicle. Doing it to a mates HQ One Tonner we've just put a 304 into, might do it to my red starion if the mood strikes. You custom solution is way cooler though .

Look up the Zeigler-Nichols method for tuning PID controllers and give AVR application note AVR221 a good read, its pretty damn helpful. Last year, after 2 months of sweet math in a controls course at uni figuring out perfect PID parameters for given transfer functions, they then tell us: In practice you never really have the exact transfer function, so use the Zeigler-Nichols method.

Hrmmmm. Maybe that needle motor driver thingee you built is busted? from what I can see, it should certainly work with that input. If I were you, I'd put the 240z tacho back to stock, and check it works off an inductive spike as per normal. Then trace the input signal line on the stock tacho PCB to the first resistor in-line. Solder a jumper across it. This eliminates this dropping resistor, and should allow the original tach to be driven from a 12v square wave. Then slap together a level shifter to shift your ~4v ignition signals (after the steering diodes) to 12V, and go from there? Hell, send me a stock 240 tacho, i'll do the work, test it, and send it back to you ready to hook up to your steering diode outputs.

Ahhh I see, cool .

Interested in your use of Mitsy GTO calipers? I'm looking at fitting a set to my Starion, and noticed they had different size leading and trailing pistons. It looks like you've got them fitted behind the wheels (closer to the center of the car), so I'm assuming you've swapped the original LHS one to the RHS, and vice versa to get the bleeders up the top. Does that not also swap around the leading and trailing piston locations? Might make the pads wear funny under race conditions?

Part of building the new engine loom for the evo V ecu involved tidying up the front body loom. I recently bought the mitsubishi workshop manuals for 86 australian, european and geenral export starions, including the wiring supplement. Armed with this information, I stripped all the insulation off the body loom from the driver side guard grommet forward, and re-routed things to make it a bit neater. Only had to adjust the length of a couple of wires. I'm moving the alternator to the other side of the engine, so I ran new wires for the feed to the drivers side sub fusible links, and the main relay box. Battery is going in the boot now too, as I need the space it used to occupy for the intercooler piping. Ran some nice double insulated 35mm^2 cable, which I'll get a friend to crimp some nice terminals onto at some stage over the next week. A bit tidier than factory. I'm going to leave it mostly un-insulated for the moment until it's running, so if I need to make any adjustments it wont be as time-consuming. I tried to minimise the number of branches coming out of the main loom. The factory setup has stuff coming out of it at heaps of places, looks a bit mank. Plugs I dont need: A/C condensor fan, A/C high pressure switch, and vacuum pump for the speed control system. Another plug I dont need, the factory radiator fan and thermoswitch. Might end up using it however, having the ECU control one of the fans, and the other hooked up directly to a thermoswitch in the radiator as a backup? Nah, probably overkill. Will get some more welding done on my intake manifold this afternoon, as the weather is turning crappy now, so best to be working inside. Ive hopefully sorted some storage for the black car, so I can get the red car in the garage sometime in the next month.

If your scorpion is an IRS model, then yup, it's all good. Otherwise, beam axle sigma springs will work.

Whatever, you just built a megasquirt and got it working, you're fully pro now .

Hah, I stole it from Bride, so sweet as . Keeps them nice and low.

After a couple more hours mucking around today I've got this: The rear left-hand mount is reinforced with some box section underneath to eliminate the flex there. When it's all bolted down, and the seat bolted to it, its rock solid and slides nicely. Its a couple of inches lower than the factory seats, and in about the same position centrally, feels good man! Still have to finish weld everything and trim all the edges, but I think it'll work out nicely. Oscar has given this car his stamp of approval too .