fuel

Blocks are the same, infact so are the heads on that shape Galant. Only difference being higher compression pistons and multi point fuel injection (I can't remember if they have a blanking plate to block off fuel pump hole or the heads are just not cast with that hole). Oh and the cam will be different profile. So grab the later model SOHC 8V engine, use your head on that block, with the later model camshaft. Would be a good base to chuck twin carbs/sideys on. The 4G63 remained relatively unchanged from its introduction in 1980 up until 1992ish when they changed to the newer 7 bolt block.

they are all lemons. oh snap! Donna (HUNTD) would be the girl to ask (if she even comes on here anymore) as she has a '77 cunter 1725. As far as I know there can be problems with the alloy head 1725cc models with blowing head gaskets. Being an english car it's bound to leak oil (to self lubricate the chassis of course ).

I had problems getting the crank pulley off my 6A12 V6. It just had the one big nut and once that was off the pulley decided it didn't want to move. I doused it in CRC and got a screwdriver and prybar behind it but all it did was bend and chip off the alloy (oops). I tried tapping around the perimeter of the pulley to work it loose but it didn't seem to help either. In the end I gave up and left it overnight and came back in the morning and was just mucking around with the engine - I gripped the pulley trying to figure out how to take it off, only to find it fell off as soon as I touched it pretty much. If CRC/WD40 + overnight fails, you could always try heating it up with a blowtorch.

^^^ Agreed. Needs less trailer wheels and more lightweight racing style wheels (minilites, superlites etc)

Yeah I wouldn't go to supercheap either, our new parts system software somehow has fucked our our cambelt pricing, most have nearly doubled in price. Try Segedin's in AKL (http://www.staparts.co.nz) or as suggested like Partmaster or Appco. Partmaster do have a huge mark-up like Repco/Supercheap do when it comes to retail pricing as well, but most good cunts will give you trade price or at least loyalty discount.

Holy incredible update batman! Have been neglecting the rolla hard - eterna taking all my time, but I've managed to squeeze in some work on it:

or on my jeans but not just any jeans - my parts list front pocket jeans!!

There's a few people on Austarion who have done this, one of which has had this setup for three years running reliably. The main problem is with the VR-4/Evo block as it has equal size water jackets around the front and rear of the head, whereas the Starion block (as the original thermostat housing is at the front of the head anyway) has smaller jackets at the front, and larger jackets at the rear to promote more flow through the rear of the head first. I will be placing the water temp sensors at the back of the head where the original housing would have been which would show if it started overheating anyway.

If you can get the part numbers for the bushes you need/want (see website above) come see me and I can order them in for you from aus. Our catalogue is shit so wont list crowns of that age

Fuck so wanna go, but I don't think I can get off work at such short notice plus I really need the money

Hey Dan cheers for that info, I'm planning on doing the DOHC conversion to my Eterna at the end of the year. I'm just going to use the original (Starion) bottom end, with VR-4 crank/front oil pump casing, Evo III rods and pistons (higher compression than VR-4) and RVR head with Evo III cams. I'm still unsure what to do about the water pump, power steering pump and air con pumps. I'm guessing your EX doesn't have PS or AC so you didn't bother about them. As for the thermostat housing, alot of the Austarion guys make up a blanking plate for the rear of the head and relocate the housing to the front, but it requires modification to the head gasket to allow more flow to the rear of the head.

Yeah even my king springs aren't quite captive in the strut of my Eterna. Best solution is to shorten the shocks then you can run shorter springs

Also when lowering it (drastically), the camber will change from positive to negative which helps bring the top of the wheel inside the guard.

Oh what a night....

I'm keen as a bean but am going to a workmates farewell dinner tonight first

Oooh that reminds me I have a blanking plate to suit a 4G32/37 too. Find a carby turbo cordia electric fuel pump or any other inline low pressure pump and you'll be sorted.

Yeah, and make sure you use the spacer too which should come with the new pump. If you don't install the spacer you can damage the pump also.

I just remove the dizzy cause I find it easier to get to. But that was in a FWD Galant with the pump being at the rear of the engine bay, whereas your RWD cars are a bit easier access wise. Cam -> Is that on your 4G36 or 4G63? If 4G63 it's in a different place than the 4G32.

The distributor shaft has a mark to line up with the distributor body. As long as these are lined up when number #1 piston is at TDC you'll be fine. Takes a bit of fiddling though, as when you insert the dizzy the shaft will twist a bit, so line up the marks and take note where the dizzy rotor is pointing, then move the rotor in the opposite way it turns before you re-insert it, basically compensating for it moving when you insert it. Check the rotor is pointing the way it should be.

You gotta have number #2 piston at TDC in order for the lobe on the cam to be at the lowest point, installing the pump when not at #2 TDC could cause issues.

Yeah they usually have quite a large spring on it so will be initially hard to move. You can move it a few mm from memory before it starts to get hard to move. Hang on to your receipt as the experience me and Pete have had with those pumps is they don't last long. *edit* oh yeah don't forget to read the instructions carefully. If you don't install it exactly right the arm can slip off the cam and then it can snap when the engine turns over. You'll have to remove the distributor to get to the fuel pump too, so make sure you are familiar with setting the timing on the 4G32.

Supercheap wont have any mounts in store, and not likely they will be able to get any in either. They do mainly OEM replacement stuff as opposed to off the shelf universal type etc

Hey nice was wondering if someone would snap that up. Is it a genuine widebody or does it just have fibreglass guards etc? I don't particularly like the flares though.

Haha fuck you guys are rofls

Well for starters it's a G63B engine, not a G36B. Aka the 4G63. I have a PDF Mitsubishi manual for the SOHC 4G63 in the E33A Galant, most torque settings and clearances will be the same for the Starion turbo engine. Send me a PM if you want it e-mailed to you.