fuel

Oh real, what brand and tyre are those cheap ones? I'm leaning towards real grippy tyres over cheaper tyres, but I'm trying to hunt out the best price for those tyres. Hrmm.. so far for brand new I can get a set of DZ101s for $700ish with a free wheel alignment, or same price for a set of T1R's or same price for a set of those new bridgestone potenza RE001 assymetrical tyres. Dan yeah I went down there and talked to him, best he could do was a set of T1R's for $179 each and they would do some sort of 'look after your customer package' with free tyre rotation and pressure checking - hardly something beneficial to me. Decisions decisions...

hey guys I'm about to buy a set of four new 205/50 R15 tyres - either dunlop DZ101 or toyo T1R or maybe something else equally as good for the same price. Is there anyone here in Hams who can hook a brother up with a good deal? So far have been quoted $179 per tyre which is just a little more than I wanna spend. I would be open to used tyres with half tread or more if someone knows of a set around. Cheers

Here's a stupid question - why is it left hook?

I would be keen but it's so close to trackday and I have a bit to do this weekend

Spray it on, let it sit, then hose it off - not that hard really. Don't spray or hose real close to the dizzy or coil etc

Take the engine out to clean it? That's a new one haha. Try some cans of degreaser, $2ish a can at Supercheap.

Yeah they can leak oil also if the diaphragm is broken, seems to be common with the mitsi mechanical pumps.

clutch fork arrangement is the same as RWD, checked clutch master/slave cylinders that they aren't leaking and actually pushing the clutch in? Get someone to pump the clutch pedal while you look at the pushrod on the clutch slave cylinder. If it actuates the clutch like normal then it could be the clutch disc/pressure plate itself

half a liter overfull isn't too serious, crankcase pressure would probably increase a bit but generally not enought to cause damage. It's when you overfill it by 1 or 2 liters you run into troubles. I can probably adjust tappets sometime after work during the week, or maybe this weekend if I have time. As for the fuel leaking out of the pump, the pump diaphragm has split and it will most likely be leaking out of the weep hole, or worse leaking fuel into the engine oil on the other side of the diaphragm.

He bought it like that, Sam did that work

That's bone dry, when you drain the oil there is no way to get all the oil out of the sump as it sits in the very bottom below where the drainplug is. I always put through about half a liter of fresh oil while the drain plug is still out so it runs through and displaces most of the old oil. Also oil filters have shrunk smaller over the years. The original filter size from 1981 is probably alot bigger than the generic filters you find on the shelf now. A good idea is to fill it up about 3L, then keep checking the dipstick after adding oil about 250ml at a time. Then after running the engine check the oil again when it's cold and top up if needed. Also, you said fuel filter - surely you mean oil filter? If you changed the fuel filter instead of the oil filter doing an oil change I would be worried.

I think GTX (white bottle) is only SL specification, GTX Protec 15W40 (black bottle) is SM. Castrol is good, but I found for the same price you could get Valvoline oil which was just as good, if not better in 5L packs as opposed to the 4L Castrol packs.

Setting the clearances tighter can allow for the valve to open just that bit more and for just that bit extra duration - downside is if you set them too tight the valve doesn't sit on the seat for long enough and can not allow for the valve to transfer enough heat and causes a burnt valve. I found with my old 4G37 I couldn't get rid of a noise coming from one or two tappets, turns out the rocker arm feet on two of them were worn so I replaced the rockers with roller rockers off an import 4G37 and the noise went away afterwards, after setting to 0.1 and 0.2. Thinner oil has a less of a cusioning effect, so if there was a couple tappets with just enough clearance to be noisey a thicker oil can sometimes quieten it up a little bit.

First you say 20W50, then you say 20W40 - which is it? 20W40 is no thicker or thinner than 10W40/15W40 when it's at normal operating temp. If it's 20W40 it would be Castrol Super which is a low grade SE/SF oil, while the 15W40 oil would be SL or SM rated which is good oil. Fact of the matter is, different BRAND oil shouldn't make the tappets noisier, more so the grade or viscosity would have different properties which may slightly hide the sound of a tappet with excessive clearance. At the end of the day, you still have a tappet which is still not spot on, hence the noise. I keep telling you this, but you go off on another tangent thinking it's something else. Just like the ignition timing settings. What's the point of us even answering your questions if you just disregard them? Your call, really.

Are you sure the noise didn't start after the engine warmed up fully after setting the tappets on the new oil? I can't see how a different brand of oil can actually physically alter the clearance of the tappets - cause that's what would be making the noise. The newer mitsis are picky with oils due to their hydraulic lifters, which the 4G32 doesn't have. How were the tappets set - while the engine was dead cold or with the engine hot? What were they set to? The manual specifies 0.15mm for intake and 0.25mm for the exhaust but I've always done 0.1 and 0.2 respectively. I am pretty certain the clearances on a few tappets are just too big, either that or you have something worn in the rocker gear (either camshaft, rocker arm foot, or the tappet itself). If you are so certain it's the oil, change it back to whatever you were running previously. Just for reference, 15W40 is a thinner oil than 20W50, so if anything switching to a thicker oil will bridge gaps more and make for a slightly quieter engine.

My diff uses 1.3L so I would imagine yours would be similar.

Hey, welcome. Bit of a change from the TM board huh? Just for the future, you can quote peoples posts by clicking on the quote button at the top right of each post, saves having to copy paste shit.

speaking of pics, I better post up the ones I took, gimme a few minutes

I think my fish slice is still in your car Ben haha

I think there might be a couch or some floorspace spare. I am so finished for the year, started drinking already. Boes come round when ya want etc

I saw it up on the hoist at elders garage on clyde street today, rocking a big dirty chrome fart cannon muffler.

while you're at it you may as well overfill your engine oil too.

turns out I can't make it I have my work induction that weekend. Sorry boe

the park light switch operates on a different circuit instead of the standard headlight/tail light circuit. It suggests there's a short in the circuit if it keeps blowing the fuse. Pull all the light bulbs out and see if it's still blowing the fuse - I've heard of a case of a tail light blowing but the filament blew in such a way it shorted out the connection.