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Truenotch

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Posts posted by Truenotch

  1. 59 minutes ago, sheepers said:

    Feilding people,

    im planning on taking my fancy datsun to this event, we are staying at he fielding hotel which isnt the most secure of parking places.

    could i impose on someone to park my car in a secure location where it wont get stolen by the many and various fielding crackheads? 

     

    thanks team.

    I can organise parking inside the gates at Manfeild if that works for you. It won't be accessible after about 6pm at night though. 

  2. @Hyperblade It's been like this for over 30 years! Phil (who originally built the car) wanted to be able to swap diff ratios quickly and wanted the axles to be independent from the axle, so he put a floating axle on it. The hubs are big aluminium items and the splined caps are really nicely machined from steel. I think the whole lot is custom made by Phil and must have taken him ages to design and create. I'll take photos of the hubs next time I have a wheel off it.

    I've had diff gears modified to take 28mm axles and had custom chrome moly axles made to suit. If you flick back through my project thread, you'll find a couple of posts about breaking the old 24mm axles. 
     

     

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  3. Thanks guys. I'll bite the bullet with a clean and re-weld, followed by some JB weld for safe keeping because I'm sick of oiling my brake pads and getting greasy hands every time I take my wheel off. 

     

    3 hours ago, Hyperblade said:

    (your's has had a fair bit of modification done to it)

    You could say that 😁
    post-5613-0-72276200-1436072885.jpg.49728d972f4c855197d19964027951ad.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  4. 17 minutes ago, cletus said:

    Is it definitely a hole from a yuck weld? Make sure it's not a crack from flexing or stress

    I'm pretty sure it's porous from welding and it's been leaking as long as I can remember. I had someone attempt to throw a MIG over it in the past and the leak has persisted. 

    The diff was making some strange noises last time out, so a full removal, strip, clean, grind and re-weld wouldn't be toooooo much extra work if the diff head and axles are already coming out. 

    2 hours ago, Nominal said:

    How thick is the housing where the caliper bracket is welded?

    I'm not sure what the wall thickness is tbh. It's a factory T series diff housing and I'm guessing that area was ground back substantially before the caliper bracket, lower arm boxes and floating hub carriers were welded on. There's a lot of welds in that area and I'm assuming they had the mig cranked up to 11. 

    I think the leak starts over here and might be seeping through a couple of layers of weld: 
    image.thumb.png.748b9b23627fd3be11c81ae5ca01de0c.png

     

    One of the guys at work suggested pressurising the housing to speed up the leak and make it squirt out. Kinda keen to try that 😄

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  5. And I have this problem to solve... does anyone have ideas on what I can do?

    The diff always leaks oil out the RR corner. I thought it was the seal, so i gave it a clean at the start of the weekend and watched to see where the drips form:

    20250602_203412.thumb.jpg.355b1bb8c18dd8a7436bc6ce0f0e453f.jpg

    It's coming out of the ugly welds where the caliper bracket attaches... 

    Should I attempt to weld the hole shut? It feels like such an oily area might be hard to weld, so the leak might persist. 

    I'm pretty keen to seal it from the inside with something like POR15 fuel tank dealer. Does anyone know if that stuff will deal with hot oil?

    Your suggestions are welcome 😁

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, Rhyscar said:

    How will the firing order be paired? And what does the inside look like?

    It's hard to get a photo of the inside. It spirals in to a point at the middle and out a 2.25 or 2.5" V band that's printed into the end. 

    Designed to be slip joined in and i guess you'd run all 4 cylinders in sequence to try and get some spiral action happening.

    20250520_182057.thumb.jpg.a4c84fb4fff005ad71aed307be7ada98.jpg

    • Like 3
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