Chrome_GT

1 may not necessarily be at the front. Do this to check cambelt is set correctly 1)Turn engine using big spanner on crank pulley (Lowest Pulley) until zero marker on pulley is lined with timing pointer 2)look at camshaft pulley, is the pointer at the bottom? 3) Take of dissy cap. Is the rot pointing towards a scribed line on the uper rim of the distributor. (This scribed line marks the location of where Number one should be). Let us know how you go - check points gap is opening too. It's easy to do. Take cap and rotor off, put car in gear, rock car backwards and forwards so the cam lobes lift the points. Check for a gap. If gap is crap then it'll run like shit

Seen the same on 2 stroke bike barrels. Manufacturer would have just made them all equal on purpose as it keeps the casting simple and they wouldn't have known where hotspots would have been until testing. Then once they are made they would have done all the testing to determine hotspots, then gaskets would have been finalised. Never puled apart a modern engine, this thing probably doesn't happen anymore due to CFD.

Well - I found the reason for running on two cyls: Compressions 180, 30, 30, 170. With a nice puff coming from 3 when testing 2 and vice versa. Guess I'll be replacing the Headgasket tonight Anyway still interested to see if anyone else with the same distributor has heaps of endfloat on the rotor drive

Can someone please pull off their cap and see if there is much axial play is the rotor drive shaft? I'd expect a little bit but the 4mm I'm getting seems a bit excessive. Bosch distributor setup has a red dissy cap, the black one is a motorcraft setup. I think their is another setup too. Oh yeah, for an OHC 2000cc Pinto. I've been having problems with dissy caps wearing out after 3 months of everyday driving. The one on their now has unusual wear which suggests the rotor is moving up and down. The Capri is currently running on two cyls :{ Working on that right now

Have heard of Pick a Part before. What makes Pick a part different from a standard wrecker? I've never really had much luck finding bits i need from wreckers - i tend to by donor cars bad habit

I had a driveshaft made at CircleTrak Engineering CHCH. They'd be the place to go if it requires anything more than a disassembly and reassembly.

Have you tried these leads? Do they really interfere? The impression I got was that high supression leads were introduced to minimise interference with ECUs etc. Does using spiral wire leads improve performance cos if they do I'd rather my car went well and I'll just listen to MP3 CDs? If using high resistance leads means the ignition system requiring more maintenace then I'd rather avoid this.

To all you with old oldschool cars with old as ignition systems (points, rotor, condensor, cap, coil) What type of leads do you use. I've been running on Champion HT high supression leads the entire time I've had the car. These are the typical leads sold at repco for all vehicles. I was told today that I should try using Spiral wire ignition leads which have approx 1kohm resistance compared with 10kohm for suppression leads. I'm keen to hear what you others use in basic cars like escorts, capris, chevettes, vivas, morris, minis.

Oh shit - so did your seat collapse back or something. That's nasty. So that is what 70's fords do in a roll over. Kinda worried

I've driven on Roadstones for the last 4 years. No problems at all. I think they are the budget brand made by Firestone. Used to have Wynstars which also seemed ok. I think they were the el cheapo version of the Dunlop Daytona. Fo an idea on price I got Roadstone 195/60/14's for $110 each at Flags Tyres (chch) last week. Good place, will deal with them again.

Could you please chuck up some more details? Just got a WOF on my Capri! like winning lotto

Hey, Another one worth trying is the mount used on Morris 1300's behind the remote gearshift housing. It is similar to as you described. I've looked in my garage for myne but can't find it. From memory it is 40-45 thick, 50-60 diameter, with opposing concentric studs (one on each end). If I find it I'll let you know, Ask to see one of those next time your at repco/scheap etc.

Shot with FinePix A120 at 2007-07-16

Cool. Ok Will keep that in mind if i continue to have trouble. I have some spare 1300 radiators so will hold on to those for a while. Will be giving my 1300 body away soon to clear the driveway. If you know anyone in chch who needs a shell let me know. I loosened off the two bolts going from the engine Mount bracket to the bottom casing. Then jacked up the end of the engine and retightened. Gained a max of 5mm clearance which is heaps in comparison to what it was. Cheers for your help.

Shot with N73 at 2007-07-16 A photo from a uk forum where I've posted the same topic http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/in ... ntry592613

Yip round nose. Gutted. My radiator is brand new :{ I know what your saying though. I do have one of those brackets with horizontal pin. You sure it doesn't hit? I'm pretty sure trial fitted one of those rads and it fouled against something on the body. Can't remember what though. Hey ke20 - did you use the horizontal pin rad mount or the twin bolt rad mount. Theminiman - You have one of those supercool twin core rads eh?

I'm not sure. The shrouding or cowling used in the 1300 is wider than a std minis because the radiators are wider (front to back dimension when installed)

Shot with FinePix A120 at 2007-07-16 The mongrel is highlighted below Shot with FinePix A120 at 2007-07-16 Borrowed from http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewto ... =1971+mini 998 1275

Shot with FinePix A120 at 2007-07-16 From Memory here is the approx location. White = edge of pulley Red = Problem Bolt Yellow = bracket which bolts to the fan cowling

My 1275 pulley is hitting radiator bracket bolt,can i use a 998pulley I recently fitted a 1275 into my 1971 mini 1000. Problem is the larger pulley of the 1275 engine is so damn close to the radiator bracket bolts that they grind on some occasions. Very disgusting noise!!!! Can I use the pulley of my 998 on the 1275. My guess is the larger pulley was to improve the harmonics of the crank since there is no offcentre mass to improve balance. Read somewhere there is a cushion in the 1275 pulley. Can anyone confirm that they have used a 998 pulley without blowing there crank to bits? Any links or info is greatly appreciated. My other options are to remove the bracket bolts and machine them down so the heads are smaller. Or replace with button head screws or something along those lines. Anyone else had this problem after doing a conversion. What was your fix? Note I am running the 998 radiator and therefore have the bracket where the shroud bolts down onto the top of the engine mount with two screws. Cheers Ray

Old topic however thought I should contribute by providing a link to my project where i have done the 1300 into a mini thing. I've tried to cover all the differences so the project page can be used as a guide http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewto ... =1971+mini

Just an update. I bought a 3core raditor from minibitz off trademe. The overheating has now gone!! Having fun driving the mini to work each day now, but i really should do the wof/reg thing eh

Hey, yeah still got the shell but I'm way down in chch. Love your orange one.

Remote Mount Well the minis remote had one kind of rubber mount, the landcrabs mount was different. To fit a mini rubber mount i basically drilled and tapped the mounting locations into the rear of the remote shifter. \ Here's a link to some interesting info from minispares http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=33674 Austin 1300s/AAs and 1300GTs used a remote-type gearbox. The main difference is the horrendous rubber/metal sandwich plate between the remote housing and the back of the diff housing. Made for quite a gooey gear-change once a few miles old. These will fit in place of the Mini remote type, although the rear mount is different. My advice here is to change it to the Mini mounting by drilling/tapping the two holes necessary to carry the Mini remote mounting. Trying to alter the bracket to take the Austin 1300 one is more of a job! Getting a remote-housing type gearbox into a rod-change shell a worse one, taking a fair bit of fabricating and fettling. Internally they use the same gears as the old Mini - square-tipped teeth with the same ratios - except the 1300GT.

In the Capri i just tee'd it back to the pump inlet. Have had no troubles. Been this way since 2001