Chrome_GT

Spray heaps and heaps of wd40 into pins too! Mine failed a wof cos door moved up and down. Was pissed that it failed. But after pulling pins out realised that the door was close to falling off. The pins were shattered / corroded right through

Replacement roll pins were available at EDL fasteners in Chch based on dimensions. Blacks can probably do them too. Nothing special

Sykes Pickervant make the tool also. Or at made one. It's been a while (8 yrs) since i did myne, i borrowed the sykes tool of a workmate. If i remember right it has to be done in this unusual way because of the way the door is shaped. Maybe someone can confirm this I reckon you could make a tool easy as. A Buy a long bolt, Turn the head down so it will slide down hinge bore but is still bigger than the roll pin ID. poke through the roll pin inside the hinge, thread a nut on the other end. Then use a fork of some sort to belt down on the nut. If i remember right it has to be done in this way because of the way the door is shaped. Maybe someone can confirm this. May be more like this B Buy a long bolt and nut, Turn the nut down so it will slide down hinge bore but is still bigger than the roll pin ID. poke upwards through the roll pin inside the hinge, thread a modified nut on the other end above the roll pin. Then use a fork of some sort to belt down on the bolt head.

The above posts reminded me of the ater water sprayer trick. We use that all the time and should help especially with the fan pulling it right through. Easiest way is irrigation equipment from bunnings etc as bubblegose said. Use a small pump or even consider a pump up weed sprayer as should get a good 60seconds out of that. If your only doing burnouts then removing bonnet shouldn't be a problem eh?

Have experimented at work with a continuously high reving 2stroke. Setup 1 = 2 x 15l/min davies craig EWPs - delivered 30l/min when going through 25mm OD pipes. Setup 2 = 1 x 80l/min davies craig EWP - delivered 50l/min when going through 25mm OD pipes We did get a drop in Engine temp of up to 5° so it did work but not heaps. Some would say youd get better heat transfer as the water is hotter across the radiator so bigger temp difference between that and the ambient air. But at the same time this means that warmer water is being flowed into the engine, therefore the temp differential there is less. It's and energy thing not a temp thing - you'd need to know flow rate and temps drops to determine the energy dumped. Water wetter didn't seem to help in our case - however have heard good things about it. Can you substitute long lengths of rubber piping or hoses for aluminium elbows and straights? Maybe chuck a heater matrix somewhere and use it as a secondary radiator. I wouldn't put this in line though as may be a flow restriction. Run your in car heater on hot Go with less coolant - water is the best thing for ripping heat out, coolant disturbs this. All coolant does is give corrosion protection and increases the boiling point. Maybe drop to 20% as 50% seems far too high.

Sounds like your all thinking the same as me. Yeah I had been very cautious around bends since being aware of this. Have no fear, the car is off the road at the moment. I will sort this out over the next couple of weeks. I have a spare rack so if a shaft replacement is required then thats no big deal. Although considering just getting it fully reconditioned. Last time i had that done in yr2000 it was $200 or so.

Steering Rack slips!!!. When turning wheels under load so either when stopped, or when taking a heavy turn, the neutral steering wheel position shifts. So could be driving down a straight road, steering wheel left tilted before a right turn and after the turn becomes right tilted . Scary huh. When stationary, when turning SW from side to side you can feel a graunchy slip. Feels like the spline of the shaft or something has worn. Definitely down low in the rack and not at the steering wheel or shaft coupling. Anyone had this problem before?

GRDWALKER - did you sort the starting issues? I found out that my issues were caused by my coil. Worth checking out

re dissy cap. I replaced that a couple times over the last few years aswell. It has been showing more wear than usual too. Anyways. The new coil made an instant difference to the starting. It now fires up after one crank whereas before replacing it has taken 4 cranks or so to get it to fire up, if it fires up. Now that it starts so much easier i expect that moisture won't be an issue. Spark appears slightly bigger as compared before replacing and after. Haven't noticed any significant difference in the power. Capri seems gutless, I must have suffered the power bug after driving a v6 alfa for 5 months. Next time we have a wet shitty week i'll switch back to the Capri for a few days. Will be interesting to see how it goes.

That's exactly what I've done. What were the symptoms you were having with the escort?

CIC31 - Champion Coil, 12v with internal resistance CIC32R - Champion Coil, for use with external resistance I changed the coil a couple years ago from whatever was in their to the cic31. Since around that time i've had issues with contacts burning out and also more wear in dissy cap than expected. Recently I have found drying out dissy with hair dryer has helped start an otherwise non starting car if moist. Car has felt gutless and spark isn't as bright as i thought it should be. My theory as to what has happened: -Fitted 12V non ballast type coil despite having the external ballast resistor -This has burned out contact points regularly -Coil has burnt out or degraded due to mismatch <- any thoughts???? -Spark has become week -Car has been a bit gutless, won't start with moist conditions, dies in really moist days. -The slightest amount of moisture, which is normally not a problem, has been causing problems since the weak spark voltage is less tolerable to moisture. This is why i found drying distributor up has helped. Will fit correct coil CIC32R today and see what happens. Obviously time will tell if that is the reason for points going but hopefully car is less effected by moist days, starts first time, and has more spark = more power Someone in another forum said that a 12V coil (with internal resistance) would get burnt out on a car with the extrenal ballast resistor. Why? It is also suggested that this combo burns out points. why?

Hey all, got ongoing issues with the Capri: *Spark is there but i'm suspecting it is weeker than it should be *points are pitting regularly - far more often than they used too years ago. Note that replacing condensors didn't fix this. I always replace condensors when i replace points and set points using dwell meter not just feeler gauges. *Have had issues starting and has died while running on moist days Does this sound like it could be the snowballing effect of having a bung coil? What are the typical symptoms of coil failure? What diagnostic checks are there?

Hey, I'm suspecting i have issues with my dizzy too. What are your signs of worn bushing - axial movemnt or side to side looseness?

Hey I quickly sketched this out. Your first try: 300mm springs, shock min thread at equivalent 315mm => 15mm clearance Second try: 250mm springs raised at bottom so effectively 270mm springs. Shock shortened 20mm So.... 270mm springs, shock min thread at 295mm => 25mm clearance To me it makes sense you've made them more uncaptive. Shortening the shocks by 20mm woul've only been ok if you'd kept the 300mm springs. Because you changed to shorter spings you need to take at least another 25 off (with rasied lower seat) or even more if you keep lower seat lower. Another way to think about it: If you 'hadn't touched the shocks or the lower seat, but you shortened the springs 50mm then you would have 15+50mm clearance =>65mm uncaptive. Basically the problem was you went for shorter springs which worsens the uncaptivity.

Haha, you must've known what i was in for. I pulled it apart and f#*k bits flew everywhere. Springs and small ball bearings. Oops. Turns out the torsion spring had broken inside the switching unit. FIXED NOW! replaced switching unit with a spare one, it now works great.

I Have found the fault. It is the rear switching unit which is attached to the barrel by a couple of grubb screws. It didn't go to III. Have tried turning a spare with a screwdriver which works nicely. I'll take the switch from spare and solder the orginals loom to it. The loom on the spare is trash and firedamaged at the plug!!!!

I'm pretty sure my Capri doesn't have steering lock - well either that or it has just never worked. Despite this i did try wiggling the steering wheel with no improvement. I do have some CRC contact cleaner which i'll use to clean the bits if i dismantle it.

Yeah goes to run or II as normal. Got some graphite powder today. Will try it out tomorrow. If i have no luck with that i'll give crc a go. Have heard bad things about crc and ignition barrels so will avoid if i can. If I'm still having issues guess i'll have to rip into it. Have read elsewhere that there are internal numbered bits which can be replaced once worn. However that may be fine in england but doubt ford NZ will be any help.

Something is up with my ignition barrel in the Capri. The key won't turn to start or position III. Have tried both my worn out keys and a spare which has the original key profile nice and sharp. Has anyone else had this problem? Does lubricant help? Which one is used in ignition barrels, Dry graphite or oil? Has anyone had their barrels rebuilt?

Similar to what runamuck has said.: The capri has a panel above the radiator, maybe your escort is supposed to have one - is it there? Apparently Capris don't cool well if these panels are missing

I wouldn't worry bout your operating temp as i've also seen 93° on alot of cars. If your still worried here's some thoughts: Thermostat change - My understanding is that a lower temped thermostat will only open sooner. Therefore it will take longer to get to 93°, but you will still get to 93° anyway. So changing thermostat will not change your final operating temperature, it'll just change how you get there. Other options -Fit an electric water pump of higher flow rate. I don't know the output of your mechanical pump but higher flow rates can help a bit. -Check radiator core for may be blocked or missing cooling fins. To recore your escort rad it'll cost about $200 -Check timing - you may be running engine hot by having too much retard in your timing. -Check fuel delivery - may be lean -Chenge to an electric fan which is more efficient at pulling air through. Common mod to old cars anyway for horsepower and to help them warm up. -Have experimented with water wetter, didn't make any difference -Try running less antifreeze. Antifreeze isn't as good as pure water at heat transfer. Pure water is optimal

Hey, For the last couple of years on cold days my Capri has a bit of an issue starting. Timing, Fuel and Compression would appear to be ok. But i usually found a change of condensor and points fixed it. However - I have since narrowed it down to being moisture. My car has issues only on wet or damp days and an instant cure is heating the distributor area with a heatgun or hair dryer with dissy cap removed. May sound stupid but give it a go.

If Cortina temp Gauges are anything like Capri temp gauges then they are pretty useless. The Fords used a variety of sensors and gauges. My Capri reads right at the bottom of the scale most of the time. Used to read below lowest marker but it changed when i changed the thermostat. You'll know if your car overheats, preignition, detonating and run-on comes to mind.

Thread Gauges - George Henry tools manchester st, Avon engineering wordsworth st. Bolts - Blacks fasteners on Carlyle st or Edl fasteners coleridge st.

I Had similar problem on the Capri - 5speed fitted. Cortina Mk5 2.0l cables have the correct ends on them but the inner cable is too long relative to the outer sleeve. Actual Capri ones aren't available. Solution - Buy the MK5 cortina one, take it into safeRbrakes or similar company and get inner cable shortened by 40-50mm. Either that or get a spacer made which would spigot into the cable housing at the gearbox end. I'm not sure how this applies to your esky so trial fit whatever you get before shortening it