drftnmaz

where can you get these for a cheap price? mild steel 3", 2.5" and also stainless steal 20-25mm ones someone must have a hook-up or know who makes them i tryed coby 3" $103.46+ and 2.5" $89.06+ (prob retail not trade)

haha i'd like to see someone paint a cady at home i'd say a flat colour to hide minor imperfections.

i'm sure you could figger out a way if u were that keen, you have vacum on the inlet, and pressure on the outlet of the turbo so with a heap of one-way valves you coul do it... but why bother.

you could have a blow off valve coming out your bonnet blowing flames if your crazy but i'd imange you'd stall everytime it went off and it wouldn't b that easy to trigger either.

prob something to do with the 30 degree angle that the motor sits on it.. just keep it topped up

yea grinder is the best tool ever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and the best for this job too! little to no heat i think u would want to tig it idealy but second best i think would b gas welding... i can mig if for you if you are desprate

the real funny thing abouts the poms is the non-turbo version is injected. i donno he difference between the two, care to explain? btw; its only a 1.75" carb the montego ran a t3 blow through setup non-crossflow and used a malpassi fuel reg (which i stupidly left on car wen i stripped it)

you wouldn't want me to weld it then.... it'd be messy as..

it was off a 2l turbo mg montego... so the chances it'll b rite for my turbo 1300 are slim

what do u want done to it?? a pipe welded in for a turbo or the sump shortened?

i think its a 2" from memory... i'll dig it out tonight and see... i have a mate that works at a bmc place... can you interchange the needle's from say a 1.75" to a 2" ?

i was wondering how to re-jet a SU carb, as in where the jets are in it??? i seem to remmember something bout them being in the needle? and where to get the jets from? its a carb off a 2l thats going on a 1.3l

ones a transfer pump cause the tank has hump in middle for diveshaft... u say "the car doesnt spark up" did u mean start up or its got no spark? i'd say a compression test would b the first thing i'd do....

don't the vr-4 have more oil squirters etc???? and the vr4 is a better balanced motor aswell and a starion motor thats still going after 25 years of abuse has got to b a bit tired??? not saying a vr4 an't gonna be but could take 5-10years off the abuse?

from my experiance those starion motors are pretty weak ay... i've blown a few of them, better to go for a standard vr4 motor compared to a worked up starion motor wayyy better design, better balancing.. etc.... and the main cost in doing the vr-4 motor would b the computer and if your gonna do that anyway why not just do it once and only have to worry about smashing diff's but hey thats what the welder is for

dont spose you can heat the block to help things?

i've heard soda blasting is the way to go... talked to a guy who got his done in aucks for $500 not primered..

http://www.hotgemini.com

excessive = doesn't matter its demon

the reason u turn it over twice is to make sure nothing hits nething inside motor.... i can't see shit from that pic, but easy way to cheeck if its the rite mark is quickly wack the chain cover and pully on (dont have to bolt it on) and see if the tdc mark on there is rite compared to the inside mark you were just using.. doesn't the manual show where the marks are...?

just run a 2an1/2" pipe from exctractors back to the diff then split to two 1an1/2" pipes over the diff and put to two simple chrome extensions.. (or even better get the whole thing made from stainless steal) bling rite thur and dont forget to chuck a coby or two up in there...

hahahaha that vw wouldn't get a wof in nz u need 2" of travel and wheels can't extent past guards... personally i like my 2"+ of travel... but hey wat do you need handling for in a vw?????????????

and the 5 air horns insted of a grille...

every1 has there own style and thats wat akes this world great... i loved my 205's on my 5.5" rims look'd tha shizzzz

then u gotta run bout 50psi to make sure the tryes dont pop off the beed going around a corner.... the fat tyres on skinny rims is a much tougher look...