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I'd be much more impressed to see the dyno run.... Well to be honest I'd be impressed with a dyno slip and a video of it idling

I will be very suprised if you can get 280 HP (at the wheels) (200kw) out of a Carb'd pinto - forced induction or not. Also - 7000rpm with the sort of boost you will need for the power you want wont be that easy on anything in the engine. I would be budgeting for lots or rebuilds with you carb'd 200rwkw pinto. And lots of dyno sessions to keep it in tune. The 16v cosworth turbo YBT Pinto-based block with Cosworth 16-valve aluminum head Bore and stroke 90,82 x 76,95mm , 1993cc, compression ratio 8:1. Mahle forged pistons. Weber-Marelli engine management system. Garrett T03 water-cooled turbocharger, max boost 0,7bar, air-to-air intercooler. Max power 204hp at 6000rpm, max torque 278Nm at 4500rpm. I imagine that is at the flywheel. (bear in mind that is a 'road car' tune so you can drag more out at the expense of reliability)... However it has fuel injection and a nice ECU keeping everything running nicely. If you are determined to go this route I believe you will need: A big wallet. Cosworth 16v head Fuel injection But all I should really say is: Good luck to you, I really hope it works and am looking forward to seeing (video please) the results!

I did a little looking into this and asking around at work... Apparently no one knows for sure. However the best theory I have found = Im probaly wrong with the additive bit above (hell it was a guess) But, back when they removed lead from the fuel some seals shat themselves because they were natural rubber. To get the same preformance from lead free petrol the levels of toluene style stuff (very harsh solventy stuff) was upped. Natural rubber doesnt like this at the best of times.... so some seals died and people were unhappy.... If they have done something similar this time around (in diesel this time). Then the older natural rubber seals will crap themselves.... Either way, I still think you will struggle to find an additive for deisel that will do more good than harm to the seals.

LMAO @ me..... I work with it all day, spell it Sulfur all day... then shank it here - well done. Anyway - As far as finding a sulfur substitute - I dont think the sulfur in fuel is free sulfur. Its bound up with the rings and chains of the bits that make fuel up. So I dont think adding sulfur in will fix your problem (selenium or Tellurium will bond preferentially with the stuff that removes sulfur - if Im right with that being the problem - but its would be cheaper to pay $1500 to get your seals replaced..... so IRT #1 No

I think the reason they shit out it that older rubber seals are sulphur crosslink (= the rubber is cooked with sulphur in it) and modern ones use peroxide cures.... ANYWAY - I think they way they remove sulphur is by adding stuff to the fuel.... that 'captures' sulphur- = sulphur pulled out of old seals = they fall apart

if you want some good power out of the XU1 you dont need to go for an 8. Get a good head (or porting job), aset of roller rockers and camshaft that suits your needs and an XU1 will have tripple carbs anyway. If you are looking for an origonal. The signs are (that I can remember): Fuel cell/tank where the spare tire usually is, 4 speed, tripple carbs (Im not sure which these are ... SU?.... I dont know) engine number starts with JP. Also on the VIN plate there is likely to be a body number that corresponds only to the XU-1 I know a XU nut at work, so if this hasnt been answered by the time I see him next I'll ask him

check each plug too - I had a spark plug die on my mitsi - came symptons. very cheap fix - fingers crossed for this

You are building a ferocious Diesel arent you! 2000 rpm stall converter? for street use, just a word of warning about that, if you are doing 60kph at 1800rpm with a 2000rpm stall converter the convertor 'slip' will be constantly kicking in and out and you will burn it out REALLY quickly. Something to take into account, if you are planning on using said beast for driving around town/open road and not just flying up the 1/4 then you really need to get talking to an automatic tranny specialist, not just a preformance shop dude. Anyway, I know bugger all about it - I just happened to be reading about how stall convertors work etc and that was something I came across and thought you might like/need to know....

400+ hp? Wouldnt you be after a C6? (might be overkill) but I think there is a fair amount of drivetrain loss unless you sort out a decent stall convertor.

So its only under brakes.... um, I guess check for shorts at the tail lights and at the switch on the brake pedal. hmmm

Im not taking the piss.... have you checked the oil? Is there enough in there? - The other option is was the oil pressure sender a factory item or different, some have different um, threshold as to when they switch the oil light on

Oh ok - so it idles when parked? jsut dies under brakes? what about if you put it in neutral, (so coast along) and turn headlights on? Does it die then? If it does its losing voltage to coil (somehow) and dropping spark.

Vacuum booster on brakes? Check for vacuum leaks. If at idle you arent making much vacuum then when you apply brakes engine will lose what is left and die.

No problem... Good luck with the rest of the car, I doubt you will regret raising your running gear (centre of mass will raise, but if you are lowering car it will counter act that). But I think you would regret not raising the running gear when you run over a twig and it tears out your sump and gearbox.

Cut and raise the trans tunnel.....

Wont the sump be lower than the gearbox crossmember?? If so wont that be a serious hazard to ripping your sump off? (If your car is that low)... because if I remember correctly... a supra box is shaped like ___ .....\______[] ........___x__ ____/ Where the x = the attachment point for the crossmember? What I am asking is that if you are having issues with clearance involving the gearbox mount.... how low are the other bits and pieces

That would be the business.... maybe too hard for a mount though...? They might be able to sus you out something

Here goes...... Its crap but I hope you get the idea. Theoretically, the lowest point will be the bolts.... about 25mm below the bottom on the original supra gearbox mount.... Ahem, I think thats what I was trying to say Are those question mark bits (in the pic) rubber?

If you are 'making' rubber mounts for the gearbox you have to realise that it encounters stress, contact with oil and other road crap, and under stress the ozone in the air attacks the rubber. You really need neoprene (or highly protected natural)... I doubt whether the electrical ones will be. If you dont use the right rubber you will need new ones in about a week. Anyway, my idea from what you have is this: Take supra mount. Place under it a steel bar. At each end of steel bar, (length = width of trans tunnel at that point). Have a mount/buffer/ slab of rubber with two holes that you bolt through to secure mount. I.e. end bolts pass through steel bar, rubber mount then into body work. (using the old, moved capri gearbox mounting point.) I'll try and draw a pretty picture later... I dont know if the above makes sense...

right just looked at the ltsa webpage for low volume certs. I'll need a pic of the original mounts (escort and supra) and the measurements. I cant promise anything (about it being made...) but if it is, it will be strong!

post me a picture and some measurements (interier diam etc).... I work at a rubber factory and will see what I can find/make you

Postage shouldnt be too bad. Just sent a starter motor from chch to auk. Weight limit was 25kgs (mine was only 3) and it was $10.95

Thats what I was refering to.

Yea, right - New set every warrant? + Worse straight line handling? The new tyres, because if you put serious camber on, (especially on low pro's) you'll be putting the same weight over about 1/3rd the contact area, your 15,000 km tyres will start lasting 5,000 each. Oh Yea, you lose straight line braking ability too.... I'd suggest getting the guards rolled. Will cost you alot less in the long run.

might just be a case of 'everything is for sale for the right price" or, RT blew something up