Gaz

This pos phone is bout to: getmurked

Does anyone have this same dipstick stem as this? (Without the extra stem) if so can I get some measurements off it please. 1. From empty mark to seal inblock 2. From full mark to seal 3. From tip to seal Cheers Gaz

Didn't quite get engine running this weekend but got close. Heaps of stupid shit slowed progress right down like Mazdas silly sized tiny water temp sender in block, sidedraft manifold fouling on emission block off plate, no faster shops open so endless sifting through bolt/nut collection for shit to make work. Also why does Repco have no listings for rad hoses, had to buy some other ones and cut which is no biggie just annoying! Very last two things to do before startup/troubleshooting are: 1. Hook up vacuum from inlet manifold to dizzy (needs an adaptor made as manifold vacuum oulet is hooge) 2. Suss out coil/dizzy wiring setup Any-ways enough excuses,. here is where the week of working on engine stand/engine has ended me: PS. making hoses using AN fittings & braided line is pretty damn easy and fun. My recommended new way of doing lines.

Looks pretty tidy alright. You going to paint or leave as is?

For ref 3 mark timing pulley First is TDC, 2nd is 7Deg before, 3rd is 11deg before

Seems heaps cats want an idea on price. Lets say: To strip a whole car back to bare steel (including underneath) using dustless wet blasting & then to epoxy prime is about $2500. Then ya panel man price would be dependant on the rust/dents but maybe say $1500 Then paint would depend on what product you use but lets say another $1-1500 Ill hit him up Chris, havnt talked to him since he took the car though. Gaz

PMd Yeah weird aye, actual progress on a car! Gaz

Oh true; ya link dont work for me tho, try again, keen for looks.

Car being dustless blasted so panels ain't warped. Using recycled glass or garnet? as media and water plus inhibitor. dont think too many places in nz doing process yet, us its big.

Car being dustless blasted so panels ain't warped. Using recycled glass or garnet? as media and water plus inhibitor. dont think too many places in nz doing process yet, us its big.

Fittings yum

On the lookout for sill chrome please

Outlaw as above or I 'think' Wilwood do an M16 bolt on calliper. What do you want to upgrade the rear for? With vented front disks and decent callipers you'll be sweet. I wouldn't bother with rear unless upgrading diff. (I have owned both drum rear escorts and disc rear) Shocks, just use escort and shorten them if you need to (depends on how low).. if you want adjustable shocks then check out GAZ brand from the UK. For lowering generally people either put blocks in rear or have leaves reset, see Archer Springs to reset. For front if you only want 2" youll prob get away with king springs or similar... or since your a fabricator; weld on a universal coilover kit brought from tardme. Spring rate you'd want around 220 for escort with pinto from memory. Capri struts are what people tend to use for upgrade as it is stronger & has removable bottom joint... no reason you cant use escort though. Gaz

Car is ready for blasters, then panel man and paint. Pickup tonight or tomorrow, progress again!

Nah got shed clean and then failed with diff as I have a slight issue.... only have 4x axle stands and they already under car holding it up. Need another set so I can place diff under car centred and start playing/measuring. Might buy two tomorrow if I can get away from the desk. Gaz

Im going to head into garage again after dinner and have a look.. gotta tidy up first tho! Fail. Yes yes to drawing of brackets. G

I have taken measurements somewhere and can probably start dummying up now I have the axles back. Should prob do so before I send car off to blasters.. will have a look this weekend. Was kinda waiting for rims to arrive from Japland. On the odd chance does anyone have the diff mounting patterns for brackets to weld onto Hilux diff for rx2? Gaz

Turns out ya cant just swap tail section of Gbox over as the selector part on the box doesnt match... was worth a try. Picked up Hilux axles from Engineers today tho. New Bearings 4x114.3 restud and machine to fit S14 discs Chur

But of course that's a good $600+ to shorten diff and another $1000 for 4 new shells + cert. Is it then worth it I guess is the question.

Oh the mk3s would look mint as! For the rears.. if my calcs are correct and you shorten your diff by a bit and get 4 new sheels made up then you will be able to run 14x9.5s flush with outside of guard. Legal offset also, anything more and the offset becomes illegal to cert. Gaz

Are you going to cut the rear inner guard and front inner guard out to fit 10.5 & 11's? For rear would also need to move the tramp bar mounts inwards and chassis rail. Or just have them hang outside guard styles? Gaz

Saw Leslie other day when picking up conc mixer. May have started her ranting on the merc lol. At least off the road she cant dent it up! Gaz

Ah sorry I read your first post wrong Mork, I was mixing the two boxes up. The top clean one is the one that's been rebuilt and the one was wanting to use so thats good. I guess Ill do the stick mod. Both have same spline count so good to go with my 8.5" setup. I just popped the balljoints out of the lower controll arm!!! What a mission that is without a press! Gaz

I thought from the below that the lower box was a S2,3,4 seven box... "The S1 RX-7 gearbox is a direct swap for the earlier RX-4 / RX-5 gearbox, and all mounting points, shifter position etc are the same. The rotary gearboxes can be identified by having a hole for the starter motor to be fitted to (piston motors have the starter motor fitted to the engine). All smooth case rotary gearboxes are 5-speed. *S2, S3, S4 RX-7s have a remote shifter that places the shift lever 100mm further back compared to the S1 RX-7 gearbox. These are a substantial update over the S1 boxes and are much stronger, although not indestructible. "