Burntrubber

Yeah all sorted all I needed was some pics so I could figure out what to do. Going to make it all up myself using rubber or nolathane bushes rather than rose joints. Might put one on each side so it looks better one looks bit silly to me. Just have to find out few more details on what you can and can't do like what grade tube, lenghts and clearances ect then the drive shaft I'll have to find a 1 piece with about 1200mm tube length and mod that to suit. I realy have got caried away I only bought the diff for the disk brakes to start with

The LSD came with a 2.92:1 but luckly the center that was in the berlina was 4.11:1 which is what I wanted

Its only like 30mm bigger in diamiter than the standard Gemini housing but yeah it looks huge especialy under the car.

This what I've been spending my time on lately. Its a Borg warner diff housing out of a VN berlina I've got discs for it aswell and a LSD center out of a V8 xf falcon. I've shortened it down to fit my Gemini and put all the mounts and shit off the Gemini diff on it just test fitted it today(That was an effort was a interesting night last night) Any how fits mint lines up perfect.

Falcon borg warner sounds good to me as well I'm doing it for my gem (commy LSD turned out to be a crock of poo). Got the housing for $60 disks on it also and a LSD center for $180. I'm a fitter welder so I'm shortening it myself. These diffs are also used in VK onwards Comadores so their common and cheap compared to other options like hilux.

Cortinas had that anti stall thing my carb has it its off a MK3. You could blank it off with a plate I don't have mine hooked up and it runs fine all it does is squirt extra gas in if the revs get to low to stop stalling.

That the anti stall. Can't move it either has fuel running through it. Best find a carb without it.

I'd say you got the carb around the wrong way the VAC port is on the base of the carb it would hit on the rocker cover if you had it backwards.

I work right next to a sand-shot blasting bay. Its huge they do machinary I had my diff done last week cost me $30. They charge $3.55 per min to do most things.

Bit of an update

Must be tuneing or thermostat. To lean idle mixture will cause it to run hot while idling. My Gemini runs sweet I took it on a long open road trip and it did get hot on long hills. I've only got a thin alloy radiator out of a 90's pulsar a three core should be better really.

Any paint wholesaler will have it. Its grunty stuff goes real hard dont get it on your hands cause once it sets a bit nothing will take it off well nothing safe to use on your skin.

Have you had the flange's machined flat thats important mine blew out the turbine exit a few times I knew it was warped but yeah was to lazy. Its all good now and I use repco paper but its only done a few kms so could blow out later.

No idea I have an 86 323 that had a fucked switch used to run the battery flat over night I got one from pick-a-part just put it in my sock

Try this site they have a few turbo articles. http://datsun1200.com

You have cooked the ignition switch I would say.

Will be the master cylinder sticking or broken spring. My booster had a broken spring did the same thing.

A guy I work with had his olds carina with a turboed 3T went hard. It was a rust bucket so he put the motor in a 84 starlet Was lose as he had to upgrade the diff fairly quick did'nt last long. He sold it uncerted a few years back now I think it got turned into a club car. And yeah it had a CT20 toyota turbo it had a reco before he scored it. The engine itself had done over 200,000ks.

I thought long and hard about this problem my engine does the same thing bogs until boost. But then I had an idea I jetted the secondary rich as well as drill the powervalve to give more fuel under boost this is probably why it bogs off boost because its to rich until boost comes on. Just an idea could be completly wrong , as for a 32/32 I got a mint one I used on my gem before the turbo setup if it works better for you I'll give it a go also.

Wont be for the vacume advance the symbol for that is VAC not HAC

HAC=High Altitude Compensation should be sweet to block off.

Drill another hole once you get it out and re-tapp a larger dia thread the original hole is 3/8" I think so drill and tapp a 12mm or 1/2" then put a plug or a reducer for the sender. You should probably remove and strip the engine for this due to the drillings and shit

Start with a 1mm tungsten tipped drill and work your way up had to do this on a water pump once.

I put a 32/36 of a 2l Cortina on my 1600 Gemini worked great with a bit of rejetting have now changed to turbo on the same carb I had the power valve drilled for more fuel under load the carb guy told me its also good for non turbo aswell. Keeps good economy when driving nicely and extra fuel under load. So yeah a 32/36 off a 2L would be the go. Also I had a V6 capri carbi on my 2L escort for a while and it was hungy as.

I would mig it, to tig it it would have to be a top fab job with no gaps ect or it will warp. Mig wont pull to much if machine is set right and welding is stagered. Tig welded would be cool though mate got his sump made bigger for oil cooler or sumfin all tig welded looked cool