RUNAMUCK

I would day those vertical lines on the piston are from burnouts. 

No air passing over the fins while doing those stationary load tests means the motor get hot. The pistons expands in the bore, and forces the oil out from between it and the bore. Which causes that kind of galling. 

It will have been metal fatigue that will have killed the rod.  They're a pretty light rod, so the rod bolts wont have been tugged to death. 

I expect the endless dorting to infinity will have been enough to induce the failure.

The formula for max piston speed can be found here,

http://www3.sympatico.ca/big-d/polytek.htm

Disclaimer, this page is just something I found on the net in the mid 2000s. Beyond that I cant vouch for accuracy  etc

I had an engine where a piston broke. Based on the galling in what was left of the pin bore, it actually looked like the pin may have seized prior to the piston disintegrating.  Theres a rule of thumb for maximum piston speed before forged pistons are required. 

Most of the smaller superchargers just run PK belts.  They're all that's needed tbh.

Also,

Have you considered supercharging it? An SC14 on a 1500cc engine yielded ~11psi for my bad self. 

With EFI and an Intercooler (water to air would go good) your little imp would embarrass some much heftier cars....

Take give a little donations to build a 1500cc motor that wont pop. (After the 1300 lark) 

I might be a bit after that.

So that's a yes.

Over half of that book was about making the head work properly.

Are you going to fill in the floor of the intake ports Dan?

Vizards book about making these motors breath say the floors of the ports are dead space. Pretty sure @nismo.capri filled the floor on his old Van's head. (That thing was quite jolly peppy too!) He reckoned his head out flowed the one in the book too. (Not that any two flowbenches will read the same)

The oil stays super clean too. Lpg taxis etc can do mega kms because being a gas at room temperature theres little to no oil contamination. Which reduces wear. 

I'd quite like to sink a beer with your bad self Mr Ned. (I'm filled with regret I cant attend sausage fest this weekend coming) if you know where you're staying, hola atcha boi and we can try link up. 

If its picked up at the time of vin inspection, budget ~$500(?) For a repair cert, plus the cost of any extra work required to satisfy the repair certifyer that its bedn done right. (Possible strip down etc) 

Have killed a motor or two, I can relate to your present situation. 

In my case, the car was sent to the naughty corner until I could muster the $$$/fucks to start again. In your case, option B is take donations from willing people. Even if just to score another stock bottom end to see your car back on the road in only 1 weekend. (Assuming it's not raining)  this thread is more entertaining than sky TV.  I'd chip in $30 happily.  It really feels like we all share in your success. 

And every blown engine is a learning experience/scars have the power to remind us that the past was real........

Yeah, I'm with Bevan. 

This thing was turbofucked. If you can fix this, you can fix anything..............

Looks like some quality medium bike stuff there! 

I have nothing of value to add except that someone who did a lot of research also concurred escort was the best.

Thinking about your thread update today,

You say it doesnt drive real nice at 100kph?

Weren't these a sports car of sorts?  Is there a reason why it doesn't have the nimble cat like road holding? 

Good on you for persevering.

Sometimes you need to put a car in the naughty corner until you can muster the fucks needed to press on with it again.

Ld28+t

With all the jet skis being scrapped to build those mini jet boats, and all the worthless Chinese 50cc scooters with busted plastics around it woyldbt be too costly to have a go at building on of these.

I'd be shit scared of catching an edge and getting high sided though.

Was your rig sold in 'murica?

Try rock auto?

Depending on what date

I might be persuaded. Could be my swansong for this ride. 

Some diffs require a casing spreader to get the carrier back in.

Clearly the answer is a Barra swap. 

@85_z31 made an adjustable rear set up for his z31. 

There's probably a thread for it at nzdatsun.com. (I doubt hes been here in a long time?)  James is a super smart cookie too.  (I dont recall exactly what he did tbh, but he did help Greg ( @datto_610) design and build his set up.