RT

well.. when I say 'cruising' I really mean 'doing burnouts'

Hey guys, do any of you use a centreforce clutch and what do you think of them? I'm trying to decide what sort of clutch to use behind my 302 windsor, it needs to cope with 350hp but it's just a street car for cruising really so I don't want anything ridiculous. Some people have told me just to put in a standard street clutch, others suggested a centreforce1 or a centreforce dual-friction. thoughts?

No idea, never done it. It's would be easier if there was a master which fitted the capri cable hole but there isn't cos it's a weird angle piece. I think a cable might work, this pic shows how close the booster is to the engine etc I found my old 2L cable and shoved that in the hole to see how it fits. It would need to be 3 times as long to snake right around the front of the engine and back to the lever.

Not really sure how they work exactly? But not so keen on something which is all in the bellhousing.. if it goes wrong then the whole engine/trans has to come out. I'm liking the cable idea but never seen a cable that goes across to the other side of the box. Pics or it didn't happen.

Not much room. This is the only pic I could find at the mo, and not much use. Couldn't run it close to the body as the angle would be too much. So I guess it would have to go right around the front and back again. I'd need some gnarly heat protection from the headers. Has anyone done a hydraulic conversion on something similar?

really? does it wrap around the front of the engine? Must be Fnkn long..

So I've had enough of the auto and decided to stick a T5 into my Capri. Everything should be pretty straight forward, except for the clutch. All the T5 windsor bellhousings have the clutch fork sticking out the passenger side. So that seems to pretty much rule out running a cable. Unless I get a really long one.. probably melt on the headers. So that leaves converting it to hydraulic I guess? thoughts?

but if its a pre 34 you dont need brakes, suspension or steering

cheers - gives me something to think about. I don't really want to fuck around trying to make my own chassis and steering etc. My original plan was to find a pre-34 something and cut it up. I would prefer something old and clunky.. horse&cart suspension all round. Maybe I'll just check with wayne first to make sure the chassis is heavy duty enough to get a cert with a v8. Been looking on trademe for ages but yet to find the perfect contender. Ideally a 2-door something, pickup or coupe.. pre '34 with a non rusty chassis and at least one sheet of paperwork or old plates or re-vin is a nightmare.

yeah I really do want the old look ideally.. my original plan was a pre-34 something, anything really. Looking at a 29 Chev sedan. Chop it in half and turn it into a 2-door, chop roof and notch the original chassis and put it back on the road as a 29 chev. Not sure if it would be smarter to get it back on the road in original condition and re-vin it without mods.. and then chop it up. Just would suck to get the car and do a whole lot of work on it for Wayne to tell me the chassis is too light and won't cert it. I don't know what too light means.

starting to be tempted by a new project to build a ratrod and I want to know whether it is easier to use an original chassis or dump a body on a l200 ute chassis or something. I'm aware that if you do the latter you have to register it as 'scratch built 2011' which means you have to have a bunch of shit that you wouldn't on a pre-34 car. Gay stuff like window wipers and brakes. Problem is that some pre-34's have a lightweight chassis that wouldn't pass a cert for a v8 and I don't really know what the definition of a lightweight chassis is. How do you know if it's going to up up to it or not? I don't care about handling or performance, just doing it for cheap with least amount of effort for re-vin / cert. thoughts?

Regarding adjustables - I wouldn't bother if your only reason is to have it really low. This is a common misconception as they can only go as low as the spring platform hitting the tyre in most cases. So if your plan was to get adjusties so you could wind em right down and drive around sacked out all the time.. you might as well save your coin and just get lowered springs. That's what I think anyway others will prolly disagree

RUN - yeah that's what people always told me buy my duel fuel on the 92 EB falcon was very good, ran fine on both fuels. I'd worked the engine somewhat as well. But my point was that on the open road it didn't make any economical sense to use LPG. Valiant - I wasn't actually comparing the two falcons, just making note of my experiences with LPG and yeah Impco mixer on the inner guard. All and all I enjoyed LPG and when it was cheap it was bloody brilliant, but with todays LPG prices I wouldn't bother unless it was a new direct injection system.

I've had a couple of LPG falcons with mixed results, this is what I found after years of driving them (and I kept receipts of all money and gas fills for years for business purposes): In my 86 XF 4.1L 6Cyl with an oldschool Impco setup it was reasonable economical to run (for a big car) costing about the same as a 2L petrol corolla. But it was pretty slowish, the LPG needed tune up every now and then (The mixer ends up getting clogged with a wax residue which needs cleaning out etc.) and you had to factor in the costs of an LPG cert, tank certs, LPG warrants. But I had this car when LPG was cheap (2003) I think it was 70c per L. Over the time I had this car the LPG prices rose up to a $1.30 per L (petrol was $1.60) The reason for the LPG price hike was because the govt had a deal with Maui gas fields that they had the approval to mine on the condition of a fixed gas price for 30 years. Unfortunately the 30 years was up during my time with the car LOL and the price rose to global rates. So all and all it wasn't much of a saving in the end I was running a big car for the cost of a smaller one but that was about it. My second car was a 1992 4.0 OHC Falcon with dual fuel. This was a lot faster than the XF. The duel fuel worked perfectly. But in the end if you were highway driving there were virtually NO savings on LPG as you used up far more of it. Around town on LPG had *some* savings if you kept a light foot - but again only in comparison to another car of similar size/weight. If I was to go LPG again it would have to be the latest LPG technology which directly injects liquid LPG into the cylinder, which results in fantastic performance. Now that the LPG prices are subject to global pressures just like petrol, I wouldn't bother with a old LPG mixer system again. The best way to combat fuel prices is to get the best power/weight car and find the money elsewhere to pay for gas: get a higher paying job, give up smoking, don't eat, don't have kids - whatever works for you.

Scavengers RattleUp Sat 26th Feb RatRod dirt track races • Burnouts • Bands • Private Event Hotrod parking • Gates open 12pm til late • $10 donation • Onsite security • Camping OK Burnouts V8 only, Pre '74, No Japs, BYO everything, R18 after dark No glass, dogs or flat-peakers. PM me for directions.

Fags who look like this.. generally identified by their oversized sideways caps with large flat peaks who talk like they are black and drive cars with no springs. Fuck I hate them.

snap.. I could be keen for a squirt if I can get off work early enough.. haven't dragged before.. legally anyway

I'm keen to come out again now I've got my diff sorted.. nismo's got his escort done as well and is keen. But yeah.. fucked if I'm coming to hang with a bunch of flat-peak-cap homos

Forget about cams and 45's etc on a pinto and spend the money on getting the head worked. It won't do anything unless you fully work the head. Talk to nismo-capri and get him to work a head for you. He knows how to work a pinto. pm sent

Ford 9 inch, bolts straight in I think

If you do decide to part it out can I have your gearbox? (or the whole car) Thanks

These foxbodys are great.. I've always liked them. badged as Capri's & Mustangs in the states, manual, 302, lsd, roller cams & forged pistons Early 80's ones are the lighest and can be setup with heaps of good shit They look bogan as in black.. inspiration video: http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fusea ... d=22410707

Would that really help? I'm just running standard half fill, ie, level with the drain bung. It's okay at cruise whines harder on accel, a little bit on decel just before slowing to a stop. pinion bearing is new, wheel bearings new, carrier bearings new yeah I wouldn't mind a little wine.. but it fades in and out and it's annoying to listen to eh. I can crank up the stereo.. but yeah would like it quieter tbh

Took the diff out and we went over it again. Seemed to blue up nice with wipe area, maybe just a tiny on the high side, minimum amount of preload. Nothing that looked too bad but a wheel bearing looked suspect so figuring it was probably that it was put back in the car and guess what? still whines like a bitch So I'm not sure if I'm being too unreasonable and the gears take a bit of time to bed in? ie, since the gears were removed from another diff and put into this one, the contact area won't be exactly the same. or maybe it should be mint but it's not shimmed up properly dunno

Thinking of building a RatRod. I have the choice to start with an old 30's or 40's rolling chassis or cheating with a modern L200 chassis just wondering what the implication are for registering and certifying as if I use a modern chassis I would have to register it as a 2010 Chev pickup or whatever. So would have to be more involved I'd imagine, indicators etc. Can anyone be specific about this? Cheers, RT