BigDave

Just make sure you hide it well and dont have extra items running from your constant live. Keep it independant through a low amp independant solenoid circuit for your solenoid (if that makes sense!) of its own and you should be fine.

Nice one mate. Yeah I have stripped a loom before but in this case I want to start from scratch so was going to have a go myself, but then the worry of fire put me off. Its really just because I am trying to mate brand new electronics to 80's and 70's electrics. I also have lamps, heater front and rear screens that take a big amp pull so am looking to keep them all seperate. I also want to bin the old fuse box and fit three seperate modern type boxes inside the car. I am also a lazy get!!

Not spoke to the fella myself yet, I have been put onto him by a contact down in Auckland that builds race cars. The fellas name is Bob Homewood and is in the Aucks area, well Pukekohe actually. I have his number but best speak with him before dishing it out. CheeRS Dave...

Sorted!! I have to travel three hours south but I have found a like minded fella that specialises in custom wiring looms. Where's that trailer...

You may also need to fit a high pressure oil line for that guage??

I got my first Escort just 18 years ago.

What freedz is basically saying is drill a hole in the lock arm and fix a cable to it. When you pull the cable it will pull back the arm and open the door...easy. You can also start by just looking how your key operated lock works and replace the mechanism with just a cable pull..again easy!

My mk1 (yes its a RS1600) was in pretty good condition really, but it needed a few patches in the ngine bay, the wings removing, floor blasting, roof blsting and reworking, etc, etc... A bit like this really... CheeRS Dave...

Not sure how mucg they cost here but when you get yours bear in mind they come in two varieties. They are either positive lock or positive open. If its the former then your doors will open when your battery goes flat. If its the latter then you cant open your doors if the battery goes flat. Just a thought to consider...

Most good socket seys now come with a full range of Star fittings. Any tool supplier can get you a full set for next to nowt. 200 block is the best by the way. Oh, and Pintos dont have tappets. CheeRS Dave...

You could just take one out of a more modern car and fit that. I had one from a XR3 in one of my Mk2s before, worked a charm. Also Freedz idea will be champion, thats how I am doing mine I reckon...

did you do it with the engine running? sounds sweet when you turn the adjuster and just goes all quiet when you find the rattly one! PS> I know nowt about mechanics, I am a welding inspector! Glad its sorted mate, god bless dads eh. CheeRS Dave...

Best to ring round the spary shops mate. But doing the prep work is the most difficult part of painting I reckon, not the most skilled yeah but still difficult. You will need to strip the car right down of all trim and interior, remove the engine and running gear, then blast out any rust, cut and weld any patches, fill and smooth dents and knocks, then mask out any bits you dont want black, then prime and flat the car to check for imperfections before sending it to the shop. Oh yeah, then when its painted you need to put it all back together again! Or you could just go to Repco and spray can over the topof what you have...

The paint is actually the cheapest bit mate. Preperation is the expensive part so why spoil it with crap paint to save a few dollars??

Open the rocker cover, keep the oil spray bar in place and run the engine. Hold a metal bar or long socket extension upto each rocker (or just yer ears of you cant find owt to press against) and just adjust the top adjuster screw until it goes quiet then turn it back a nads knacker. Sorted, nice and quiet with no feeler gauges! Bloody rough but it does the job!! My first ever proper job on any car was rebuilding the top end of a crossflow motor and its pretty simple if you take yoru time. CheeRS Dave...

£3500....ouch!!

all depends on what look you are after mate, also easier to remove with bolts but more rigid and sturdy with rivets. You can always drill em out if you need to swap em also?

I have heaps of the Mk1 but they are orginal welded flares and made from steel so maybe no good to you?

In Mk2 form, here we go... Before... During... After... Sorry but I never got pics of the rivets or the tubs, DOH!!!

This is one of them jobs where an FBh comes in handy!! I will go dig you some pics out just now... CheeRS Dave...

Rivet them on and then use flexi filler to smooth in the profile to the car, much better job and they cant get nicked!! I have some pics of when I did my XPack if you like??

All depends on your wheel offsets. My mate in the UK fitted some 15" Pug FWD fitment wheels on his mk1 and they cleared with standard arches.

Unless of course you mix lights from LHD and RHD cars. They are designed to dip in different dirrections so as not to blind oncoming traffic.

Depends on what ride height they are set at mate. They will obviously be firmer being a "sport" spring but your bouce could also be down to worn shocks as they control the ammount of rebound.

Cant agree mare mate, its good to go low if you are going on asphalt type tracks with no bumps. But anything more than that and you have to be careful as it will completely destroy your cars handeling. Also as mentioned, you wont be able to go anywhere!