jinx

The rwd escorts, anglias and mk1/2 cortinas all use the same diff centres. They include 3.54, 3.66, 3.77, 3.89, 4.125, 4.444 in standard form. They came up to 5.3 as an option from ford but you'll be lucky to ever find one that high for a reasonable price! Typically expect to pay from $100 to $250 for a 3.54 centre (or complete diff) and up to $350 for a 4.444. The others are much more common and sell for less. I haven't seen many 3.66 and 3.77 ones though - but have never looked... the mk1 and mk2 escorts have the same diff - the only difference is that one uses metric fittings and the other imperial. The 2.8i capri's are very rare in nz.

headlights are easily adjusted, and it doesn't matter if the pattern on the glass is different - the various manufacturers use different patterns.

you can use early hilux diffs - mounts almost straight in and the centres are interchangeable up to current ones. Makes ratio changes and lsd's easier too. they're pretty hard to find now though...

mine are machined alloy blocks (1.5") - quite nice. Think they cost about $75 and came with all nuts and new u bolts.

repco sell lowering blocks cheaper than $100 for a set. mine i think were for an hk holden...

I've heard of a few people using a product made by 3M. It's supposed to be very good, but I don't know where to get it from... It's a multi layer mat that uses a thin layer of metal on one side - that's all I can remember though sorry.

it was a 1300 - was designed to fit into the existing class rules as I recall. damned cool though!

BDTE - was that the lunatic capri engine...?

I bring stuff in regularly from overseas, just for personal use. Too much hassle to get someone here to get it in and then add their mark-up. If someone in NZ offered parts at a small mark-up only I'd be keen. I don't mind paying a little more to buy from NZ but I've seen mark-ups up to 100% - just not on. It must be difficult when you're a business though. You then have to deal with all the customs charges, GST, taxes and various other crap before you can even offer something for sale. Hard to make a buck when someone can go overseas and get it in cheaper by doing it privately... As much as I want to support local enterprise, I still want value for my dollar. If I don't get what I want I've no problems going elsewhere. Perhaps if you set up an importing business rather than a local store? Rather than having stock here you could take all the hassle out of the overseas purhasing side by working as a parts finder/importer. People could go to you looking for various parts/accessories and you could bring in shipments monthly to accomodate the requests and save freight? Using several steady suppliers would give you a stable price listing (using burton or rally design as examples) as well as a catalogue your customers could browse through. Working from your garage mainly over the net would cut overheads drastically - and as far as advertising goes it's hard to beat word of mouth from happy customers. Your head is obviously screwed on right after looking at the cars you've built - maybe a fitting/modifying service could be offered? Just my 2 cents worth...

Have several. I can pick out the best if you like? $10 + P&P sound ok?

mmmm alloy hubs.... The vented 2.8i capri discs bolt straight on, just need spacers in the calipers to take the wider discs. Only problem is that they're only easily available from the UK. What bracket mods are required for the princess 4 pot fit? That's what I've got on my mk2 and they went straight on...

they could be sealed beam though - hence the requirement for replacement. I've now got about 5 square lights to suit the mk2 - all the replaceable halogen type. I can have a dig through my pile and see if there any any good ones if anyone wants them?

other than casting the numbers on the side of the block the only real difference is that the 1600 block is about an inch taller than the 1300. You're right - they won't notice the change frojm 1300 to 1600. If you're ever in an accident and they find that you've got a different capacity engine you're toast - insurance will be refused. It's an irritating fact of life that one... Insurance companies want your money, they don't want to give it back and that will give them a way out.

Couple of Q's to ask yourself: does it smoke? how does the gearshift feel? any whining from the gearbox? They are the good boxes to get, but are prone to wear. Mine has been reconditioned as most of the bearings were shit and the layshaft had worn 25% through... It felt terrible - $600 later... If it has the small electronic ignition module (about a 2"x4" ali plate with a small black plastic module riveted on) then it's a good one to get. That's one of the main reasons why the sierra has more power than the cortina... The price sounds right though - they rust very badly so often turn up with good mechanicals. Keep the engine, gearbox (+ xmember) and ignition and ditch the rest...

Here's the listed std power/torque figures for a high compression mk2 esky engine. Escort mk2 1300 - 42Kw @ 5500 and 91Nm @ 4000 1600 - 62Kw @ 5500 and 125Nm @ 4000 Sierra (early carb'd version) 2000 - 77Kw @ 5200 and 157Nm @ 4000 Cortina mk5 2000 - 72Kw @ 5200 and 150Nm @ 3500 That's a whole lot more torque for the 2L and the 1600 is already way above the 1300. You'd have to spend quite a bit on a 1300 just to get it to the same level as the 1600 - never mind going further! First gen Mondeo Zetec 2000 - 105Kw @ 5200 and 185Nm @ 4500

Doesn't get much more simple than the old crossflow... There is never any substitute for cubic inches (or cc's as the case may be...). Always start with the largest engine you can and work from there. As far as getting more power from a 1300 than a 1600 - No Way! You want a tuff 1600 then fit datsun crank and rods, custom flywheel and bump up the compression - then go nuts on the head and you'll never look back! The 1600's turn up quite often - I've got one sitting on my front lawn (still in a panelvan). You just have to keep your eyes open and they'll turn up.

A 2L has shitloads more torque which is what really matters.

You have two different faults. Getting the timing sorted will do nothing for the leads - they're shot. Get new ones.

just do a search and compare what you can see. The mk4 has generally got chrome bumpers that don't wrap around the sides, while the mk5 has black ones with rubber/plastic extensions that do. Mk4 front indicators are vertical ones beside the headlight which do not wrap around the front of the guard. I can't remember completely but I thought the mk5 had ones more like the mk3 that came around the front of the guard a little.

If they're sparking like you say they are, and you can't attribute it to anything else other than the leads, then yes. You could try a set from another car to test first if you like, but it's probably pointless. They should not arc like you describe if they are in good condition and properly fitted. As far as cost goes, it varies quite a lot. Best you give the rip-off bastards at repco a call for an indication.

That sounds about right. As far as I know the front quarter window seals are not available.

With the leads it's not uncommon for them to deteriorate enough to "leak". I imagine they don't look so hot to start with so a new set will have that problem solved. Every one of those sparks you can see is one less getting to the cylinder... I think running on (also called dieseling) is normally a timing issue. Get the manual out and reset everything to the correct settings. A good time to have a damned good look at the condition of your cap, rotor and points... Once you've replaced the leads and redone the timing/dwell it should be much nicer!

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rear lights are different, front indicators are different, all bumpers are different. That's all I remember - apart from the obvious trim and colour differences.

you can get side exit dizzy caps to replace the normal ones - don't know what they're off though...