Hemi

Would only really bother if you're putting the engine a great deal of strain, towing or racing etc. and like others have said, it takes that freaking long to cause an issue its not really something to bother about.

All good, he bought a new sensor once we found what it was, then immediatley snapped it off when installing, so got another and didnt give it the jandel, and turns out the speedo teeth were also stripped.

so its all good, now know what the sensor is though. thats for the Help everyone

For solvent I'd go kerosene. Works awesome, didn't all just evapourate. 

For water based then a sodium hydroxide based cleaner works really well too. Think CT14 and the likes. 

Both aren't super expensive.

1 minute ago, AllTorque said:

Read this Hemi

https://www.aecs.net/techniek2011/Sept hilux.pdf

That sounds very close to what he was explaining and that pic is where the switch is. 
We will see.

Havent asked rog. but the wires have been torn off flat with that switch. i thought it might have been a detent until he told me it had two wires very close to it. 

ill ask

2 minutes ago, Mof said:

Quick Google says 5th, 1st, or neutral. (I doubt neutral way up there by itself).

Anyway, can you put a multimeter on the wires and check continuity while selecting a gear?

IM about as far from him as you are from him. ( cairns) 
Its not life or death so might wait on a diagram. 

Thanks Bro, im looking and its got me fucked because i cant figure out what rod it connects to, to figure out what it does, and how it relates to the speedo. prob something to do with low low and ... i have no fucking idea.

When he says "runs like shit" it is speed realted, when the speedo works the problem goes away. he said the wires go from the speedo sensor to that.
 

Right guys, my mate has an issue with his HIlux (2002 kzn165) were he got a stick take out wiring along the gearbox. the speedo has dropped out and it runs like shit. he has checked the speedo and remedied the wiring there, however apparently the wires ran to a switch at the front r/h side of the box (r151) just behind the bell housing. anyone have some diagrams i can look at to help him out?

Any help appreciated.

Fitted chromally (sp?) flywheel to the 910 when the ca18det was in it , and it was great, but i didnt grab the super light one but was way,WAY lighter then factory and the only thing i noticed is you needed more pedal to take off because it would stall easier, thats it. 

ATF, may very well not work under pressure but has worked fine for me.

I nearly got into a table throwing debate with an apprentice once re: lsd's he was ademant that you could shim a viscous unit, no matter how hard i tried to tell him by shimming the unit it was just going to load the spiders he went " nah to locks them bro". 
so yeah. grab a  sweet hardened washer and pack it out.

Dawg.

The rules no doubt have something about doing this though.



 

12 hours ago, Mr Vapour said:

of sister or work shop? 

Both.

I dont know bugger all but just wiki'd the blown 3.8 and it mentioned something about using epoxy instead of teflon ( more efficient?) that was for the previous engine to the VX though ( usa only models listed). 

pretty sweet cheap fun. 

5 hours ago, SOHC said:

Sounds just like a diesel 

Well, yes. but not mech pump stz, common rail and fancy injectors added, yes.

19 hours ago, rustisize said:

Isn't that called detonation?  My car does that if i run it on 91 octane.  Doesn't help.

Not even auw. have a look over common rail diesel tech and then pretty much move that to petrol. 

52 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

The Kapiti Coast District Council is way ahead of you: http://energise.otaki.net.nz/content/electric-powered-rubbish-truck/

@Simon's Dad was involved with the design and build of these. Apparently they work really well.  

Maybe thats where i got it from? Dunno. Good to hear its going well, rubbish trucks cook the brakes SOOOO much. So using regen on them would be ace, less friction wear and tear too. 

Im not really following the car side of things, but trucks are progressivly becoming more toward self drive. they have lane departure now which is pretty cool but fucking annoying when you have a 10x6 on a road made for cars *keeps setting off the warning*. the active cruise control is boss as fuck as this is the thing that makes me rage about CC so much , when the cunt in front isnt using it too!. 
Most rruck here now have infra red detector that watch your eyes and set off a vibration motor on the back seat if it detects your eyes drop too much, that mean itll give you the shits if you are texing and driving too. after x amount of drops in a certain amount of time it will send the info back to some cantre which will forward on the info to the fleet managerment centre. which can then check the cameras and give you a call to pull the fuck up and sleep ( and then explain why you were fatigued) or tell you to go to the office when you get back to town go to the office for a window seat for texting + driving etc. 

I think its all awesome, all these things help to stop fatigue drifting you truck into the next lane.
 

A sfor driveline , it will/is coming , i reckon the best place to start would be rubbish trucks , things that stop and start alot and work in a regen on them so you can make some power back when slwoing down on hills etc. 
this would be awesome in the roadtrains here because while they would never be use at road speed. the regen they would get on downhills (very loooonnnngggg downhills) and on start up (100% torque from 1rpm) would help with wear and getting the trucks up to their green zone much easier.

Off topic a touch but isnt there a train in scandinvia somewhere that take empty carts up a mountain pass and then on return makes enough power to power the train back up the pass and also powers some of the town? thats fucking awesome!

Im all for it tbh. when in brissy drivng in traffic made me mad, so self drive and electric would be great, could do my paperwork on the way home and read news/get ready for the day in the morning.

Burning hydrocarbons is really bad for you . maybe not the hydro and carbon part ( i could not give a shit about climate change, have a couple big volocanos go off at once/one super volcano and thats an extinction event.)
But the rest of the shit being released into the atmosphere, is not good.

Mining and refining lithium no doubt is horrible for the planet too. welcome to the machine. YOU BAI LITHIUM THINGS WA HAS HEAPS OF IT.

on the note of very corrosive stuff, if you want to rip anything off anything see if you can get this stuff. it blows off anything that a high concentrated base wont. We use it to clean the hand wash trough (which gets full of that aweful red dirt that sticks and eats everything) one wipe and bam, its gone . the boys use it to clena the tyres and it tears through paint in .5min
I looked at the ingrediants and went ...phwoar.

link to the white hot 
http://www.challengechemicals.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Challenge-Chemicals-SDS-White-Hot.pdf


BTW the best shit for getting that shitty day to day grime off your tyres is very concentrated sodium hydroxide IMO, just dont let it touch unprotected polished alloy. it WILL STREAK the fukc out of that, and none protected paint. 
But you watch as it rips the dirt off, make a perfect base for putting tyre shine on , if that what you're into.


 

5 hours ago, Firetruck said:

We had a weird power issue with my and then Keegan's MS110, turns out the belt was just doing silent burnouts on the alternator pulley. Didn't even realise it was doing it until we smelled the burning rubber fragrance, and the pulley was burning hot.

So if ya got the squeals, it's likely your alternator isn't spinning as fast as it wants to.

Of a bit but in the same vein, had a Mack a couple years back that had a cooling issue. The customer diagnosed as a failed fan hub, so I delivered that, no go. Lost their shit at having a brand new part fail, so I got that one back and supplied another. Same issue, so they paid a callout ( I didn't log getting the parts a callout because this guy was vip customer).

So I went out and hooked up laptop, at idle and disengaged the fan was happy as, up to high idle and engage and it actually dropped rpm. 

Stopped and checked the rib belt. It was that fucked and old that it was just slipping with no symptoms, unless you actually checked the belt, it was that cracked and glazed I'm surprised it didn't just fly off.

So those rib belts can just get that nuked they just slip with no noise or smell.

Also been using one of the guys electronic snap on torque wrench a couple times, has these flash lights that light up from red-yellow-green so you know you're approaching the sweet spot, good for those "I think that going to slip and ruin my day soon, i hope it clicks right now" moments. But its costs a grand by itself, again if your a professional totally worth it .

Get what you pay for . 
I have snap on ones they are nice to use and have a click that you can feel through the handle, should go without saying that you should zero them everytime you use.
Cost a bomb, but thats my job, im not using shit that i cant trust.

Just find a cr500 motor, lkike they just lay around , should move you around just fine a i reckon.

17 hours ago, Spencer said:

Lol just get a wideband, so much easier than peering down a tiwncam valley at a sparkplug (which you can't check while driving). They are around $200 and probably the best investment you will ever make if you want to make a old carby car run good.

With a step-drill and a mig you can install it 30min on any car, or exhaust shop will do it cheap. If you don't have a mig there is even shitty clamp on bungs.

Ive had one constantly on my Buick for 5 years and its invaluable as your tune changes with the seasons and as conditions change, I got caught out the other day when I loaded it up my tune was too lean for the big load, easy to check and fix on the fly. No magic spark plug gives you this kind of accurate feedback.

This , tuning in the garage only gives you a start tune , being able to read that shit out on the road under road conditions is invaluable , long gone are the days of bazza ted tuning his 202 by putting his cup of coffee on the rocker cover. 
 

Man Jump on youtube and listen to any of the E9 vids , they all sound fucking magnificent. the firing order makes them sound like they have a slight miss so they thump, it is unmistakable, 998CI of CEE UU NEXT TUESDAY SMASHING DOOM, there a reason the big boys still use them for the massive pulls. that and the Superliners have some of the highest rated chassis. 

I just found out that the old Maori boily down at Bruce rock engineering has an old 350 mack,air start of course, has has custom made hexagonal stacks for it , converted to j beam with bags and has cut and shut the j beam to slam it without the brakepots being smashed. even has the radiator shutter in the grille . Rags is his nick name ,solid cunt they say he is . Me old digger Joe who works there showed me pics and i actually got a boner ( the old yard hack at work was of similar vintage and spec but was bogey where his is single screw, if he lifts the bonnet and it has a top mount intercooler with the blower the is run off bleeding the boost I will fucking cream.

9 hours ago, 00quattro00 said:

From my experience with marine and stationary versions of engines they have heavier rods, pistons, crank, and are tuned to run efficiently in quite a small rpm window

Nothing like tuning a motor to produce all torque from like 1500. they just DNGAF. Lugging FTW