two_days_late

Yea hadn't received anything. Had also emailed them after 3 days asking if there was a tracking number but that email was ignored. Lucky I'm not in a huge rush for the stuff or I can imagine I would be pissed!

Hadn't heard anything from Burton for a week so gave them a call... apparently they didn't have the manifold gasket in stock so that was holding up the whole order... Have to wait until Tuesday for the guy I spoke to on the phone to talk to the guy that put the order through and just remove the gasket from the order.... fun times! Sounds like exactly the same thing you had haha.

Ah right cool, I got it shipped to work and the company name so not sure if that will make it better/worse getting through customs. I might email and follow up tomorrow if they still haven't sent me a tracking number. Might as well get onto them! Motor isn't far away from being dropped in now. Car will finish being undersealed in the next couple of weeks and then its coming back from the panel beaters and next job is dropping in the engine. Cross member and mounts are all sorted, just need to do a few touch up bits of paint on the motor, fit the new pulley kit, and possibly get the timing cover polished then its all good to drop in. After that I'll be ordering the carbs and fuel pump from weber specs in Auckland, and sorting out what to coat the extractors with. Apart from that I have all the big bits sorted now. Getting there slowly!

Haha yea pricey but should be worth it! Burton are pretty good to deal with, been emailing about a few bits and pieces and they are pretty helpful. Didn't pay VAT, and the shipping works out to slightly higher than the VAT amount. Assuming I will get stung at customs but will see how than pans out. Estimated 3-5 days delivery after dispatch so hopefully it shows up next week.

Just submitted the big order to Burton... should be here in a week or so. Images to follow

Yea definitely more than just emissions, just gonna see how it idles with this dizzy and if I'm not happy then I'll change it. It should at least run!

It also effects Idle temp and how smooth the car runs at idle. I'm messing around with it because my new distributor has a vacuum advance, and I want to know the implications of not using it.

Hmm so just block the vacuum at the Dizzy?

Sweet will let ya know if I decide to go for another option. Thanks for that link, I'll give them an email and see what they can do. How much would you want for your side entry cap bro, I'm just about to put in a big order of odds and ends from Burton so was just gonna grab one from them, they're quite cheap. Pretty sure my Dizzy will fit once I get the side entry cap on there, if it doesn't then I will have problems as my manifolds been ported to match the ported head! I'll email that dude, but the main thing I think I'm trying to get is if the vacuum advance is just used as an extra on top of the mechanical advance to help with smooth idle / emissions / idle temp, or if the mechanical advance is different on a dizzy that also has vacuum advance. I don't want to just block it off if its going to make it idle like crap if I can just use a non-vacuum dizzy or connect the vacuum advance. Cheers Matt

Ah right sweet, yep I need an extra 12+ at the Dizzy as well. Will be running it with spotlights so will sort all the headlights etc then. Cheers for that bro. I'd be keen to use the vacuum advance if I can, though virtually all the aftermarket ones on Burton etc seem to be non-vacuum. The fast road cam may also effect the standard vacuum advance on it as well? I wonder if it's better to sell this Dizzy and just buy a non vacuum one.

Cool cheers bro, will be rewiring everything (all of that has been ripped out now). Will most likely be running a remote booster so will sort that then, just focusing on getting the engine running for now though. Run a relay where?...

So after a bit more research, I can probably just block off the vacuum advance on the Dizzy and be OK. Anyone...?

Used to have one of these... remember it being reasonable quick but it was pretty stuffed though. Sold it for $800

Hey guys, I'm trying to figure out what I need to do ignition wise for the Escort. I've done a bunch of research on the net but pretty much have no experience setting up this kinda thing so am at the point where I need to ask some possibly stupid questions. First of all I have this distributor: I got it off TradeMe a few years ago and apparently it is a fully Electronic Bosch Distributor (no points). It requires an additional +12volt wire from the ignition switch and it interfaces to the standard coil ballast system perfectly. Also by looking at it, it appears to use a vacuum advance (Assuming that gold thing on the side is the vacuum advance diaphragm?). The car also came with this coil, which after doing a bit of hunting on the net appears to be a Bosch GT40T or a GT40RT. The RT requiring a Ballast Resistor, and the T not. I don't currently have the car with me so can't check which coil it is and if it does have the resistor. I'm also going to be running twin Weber DCOE 40's on this manifold: Soooo my questions are... Should I be using this Coil with my Distributor as the new Dizzy is non points and the old one was a standard points based unit. Does this matter at all? If so and it is the Ballast Resistor type, is there any advantage or difference to getting the non ballast type instead? Should I bother with this coil anyway, as I've read a bunch of people saying they are crap but that is possibly due to them being used for the wrong application? Do I need to use the vacuum advance? (assuming yes), and if so how should I go about plumbing it to the manifold (assuming it would run off manifold pressure). Is it as simple as running a vacuum hose from the dizzy to the manifold, and if so would that be what the nobbin on the left most intake pipe on the manifold would be for?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/ford/exterior/auction-470815163.htm

Oh right that doesn't sound very old then. In my experience, the charge light had flickered on and off. Someone else might have a better idea.

If you've already checked all the wiring then I'd just rip it out and replace the brushes in the alternator. If i remember correctly you don't even need to solder the new ones in (they just slot in) and they are cheap as from Repco ($20 or so last time I got some but that was a few years ago). It's really easy to do, and has been the problem on two separate eskys I've had with charging issues.

A mate had a similar problem with his headers coming loose and cracking at the top. I'm pretty sure he took them somewhere and got them heated up (while on the car) with a torch of some kind, and that must have released some pressure off where they were breaking. I'm sure someone else will have more/better info on the process.

shaneo just made some pretty nice looking custom ones. check out the pics in his build thread: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=30999

Fair enough man, everything seems to take 10 times longer than planned!

Checking Front Ride Height Making sure the front wheels wont rub with it sitting a more respectable ride height. Back wheels will be sitting slightly further under the guard, and lower.

Yea I got one bro

Sounds good!

Na man, another guy aye. Yours has definitely come along way in 12 weeks! Looks great, It's taken me years to get to where mine is now I won't be at nats this year, the car won't be on the road before then unfortunately. Should be ready for next year though, would be cool to check yours out and get a few on the track together.

Hey bro, yep a mate of mine in Welly has the yellow shell now. I think it's gonna be in storage for quite some time until he starts on it though. Looks like you've done a lot on yours too man, very nice!