two_days_late

Haha all good cheers guys, I'll track one down. Worst cast is 25 pounds from Burton Power.

Mint, wanna swap? Wonder if Repco etc still sell the old style one

Wicked thanks guys, after doing some more searching on the net it confirms what you've said. http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=148407 Looks like the 711m and 681f pumps are about 8mm different. Do you know if they are otherwise the same Retep? I have a 711 block so it looks like this pully kit is designed for a 681f, hoping I can just swap for the shorter pump. Cheers

Hey guys, I've just looked at putting my new pully kit on the escort, and it looks like the waterpump pully sticks out about a cm too far. It's a new waterpump, but I got it a few years ago and the original is long gone so I can't compare. Was wondering if anyone knows if the waterpumps come in more than one length, or if anyone could quickly check their engine for me. The Crank and alternator seem to line up so I'm assuming its a prob with either the pump pully from the kit or the length of the pump. Cheers Matt

Slowly getting there!

Converting Front Panel to RS Spec Cut away the top of the radiator shroud, and cut away the bottom of the front panel to fit the new piece so there is enough clearance for the new larger radiator. Putting up a few photos as I had trouble working out what converting the front panel to RS spec actually meant so hopefully it helps someone else. Could have easily folded up the piece to put in but they are only 8 pounds from rally design. Will weld it and tidy up/paint next weekend. Sitting further forward and being slightly higher means I need some extensions for my front radiator hoses though as I can't find a Samco silcone hose the right size. If anyone knows of a Samco hose I can use without an extension then sing out. Also cut out the piece connecting the top and bottom of the front panel to make way for the electric fan.

If you don't mind spending the time or paying to modify the guards, then I'd find the wheels you like and then modify the guards as required to suit them. You might get away with them standard, or rolling/pumping them. If you need to go bigger there are tons of sizes of universal flares around on TradeMe. Cheers Matt

Hey mate, yea that's my car. Has had pretty serious guard modification, no way they were going to fit under the standard guards even with rolling them.They are 15x8s. That photo is running standard height at the back, looks a lot nicer and less tractor spec lowered. 15"s aren't to everyones taste but I like them when it's at the proper ride height. If you have a look at my build thread there's a bunch of photos of the guard modification. Cheers Matt

Hey bro I'd check out RallyDesign, they have adjustable TCAs for 115 pounds. http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=7177&osCsid=qgm6jrfislk45humpf1le1b7q2 I've just ordered some stuff from there for my Esky so will see how they go.... Burton took ages to deal with my order and dicked me around a bit, and that was for $2k worth of bits.

Thinners got the stuff off, though its gonna be a huge mission to remove it all. Need to figure out how to make it dry.

i wonder if its because the cars been in a cold garage the whole time. Think I'll get it outside this weekend and give it a go with some petrol etc.. I'm sure it's going to make a horrible mess inside the boot though.

Its super sticky to touch... like when I press on it lightly I get it all over me.

Hey guys, Have just started working on the escort again. It was undersealed a good year or so ago and a good portion of it still isn't dry. Is there a trick to making it go off quicker? It's horrible tar type shit and if I knew it was going to be like this I never would have gotten it put on. The inside of my boot has also been done with it, and it would be nice to remove it from there... but I have a feeling removing it will be near on impossible. I'm going to need to remove some of it as its just been slapped over everything under the car (handbrake mechanism, brake line mounts etc). Has anyone else dealt with this stuff and have any ideas? 12 months and still not gone off seems strange to me? Cheers Matt

I just drilled a hole in a golf ball... just use a drill bit slightly smaller than the gear stick. Works mint.

Unfortunately not man. Realised I wasn't gonna get it on the road for summer due to the amount of stuff left so haven't touched it for a couple of weeks. Good news is that cross-member all lines up sweet, just need to get a new rubber for it from Repco. The existing rubber is moulded, but I'm assuming you can just cut that off and the new one will bolt on somehow. Haven't looked into it too closely. Been keeping an eye on your build and am very envious though, can't wait to get it on the track! Looks like yours is holding its own out there.

PM'd

I've brushed on all the hammerite on my suspensions parts and gearbox etc. It dries smooth. Not the best pics but might give you some idea. Cheers Matt

Cheers guys. That would be cool Shane, is your gearbox mount an escort or sierra one? The mounts on the floor of my car at the moment have already been messed with so I'm not sure which mount will be best to start with. How much do you want for your one? Cheers

Productive night tonight. Engine Backplate Cut a piece out of the engine backplate so it slots in nicely with the starter motor adapter plate. Clutch and Flywheel Flywheel and clutch torqued and loctite'd. All very straight forward mating it up and aligning the clutch. Engine and Box Engine and box bolted together ready to go in. Engine In Jacked the car right up and just slid the whole drive train under the car, also pretty straight forward. Just need to sort out my gearbox crossmember and straighten up the engine now. Pretty sure all the paint will fall off as soon as it started but ah well. Cheers Matt

Gearbox Gearbox is back from the Cemick Engineering in Petone where Carl shortened it down. I needed it to be 82ml shorter and he managed to get it to 75ml. Should be plenty though and means I can use the standard gear level hole, and have the shifter in the nice factory position. Also means I can keep the standard centre console. Ended up costing $350 but that included swapping the ring gear over on my flywheel and then machining let-ins on the teeth for my new starter as well. Have also replaced the front and rear oil seals, oil, gaskets, and bellhousing bolts . A bit of paint and it's looking all good Cheers Matt

There is definitely a 4 speed box the same length as the type 9

Rubbers are apparently for a MK2 Escort. Ah well I'll just get some shorter ones I think.

Cross-member is miles away from the sump... Yea looks like i need to get some shorter mounts. Dammit.

Bolted up the engine to the cross-member on the floor of the workshop. The mounts are sitting right at the very top of the cross-member, they are in and bolted up tight but it just doesn't look right to me. My question is, is this safe, and is it going to mess with the angles of my drive-train? I'm assuming its not right. With the old ones the rubber is about 1cm shorter than the new ones. There was a steel spacer on the side of the block between the mount so I just assumed that leaving this out would mean the new ones fit in right. Should I just drill some new holes in the mount bracket further to the top?

New Bolts! Have got new bolts for nearly the whole engine, plus most of the front suspension/steering including some lowering blocks for the gearbox cross-member. This should tidy things up heaps. I have 3 extra complete sets of all the engine bolts shown in the first photo for sale (thought i might as well import a few sets). PM me if you are interested.