trunk-rattlin

righto lads, more pics. just showing the placement of the mocal oil cooler sub,amp, bit of battery and coby. angle1 angle 2 angle3 interior. just mounted console (shot mongol!) headunit needs to be hooked up and gauges mounted. another and the sleeping view from the front. notice oil cooler................not really cheers, sam

new photos that are better should be up tomoro.

well, the mods that have been done by the previous owner are: INTERNALS All new seals, bearings, rings etc Kent 244 cam-new followers Fully balanced, lightened flywheel New ACL pistons 60 thou ovasize 1.3L Full headjob-Ported, K'lined guides, rover V8 valves, double valvesprings, lightened rockers, head machined to fit BMW valve guide seals. EXTERNAL Alloy rocker cover New w/pump, oilpump(high press),thermistat housing. Alternator fully rebuilt with high output internals($200 reciept) 45mm Dellorto sidedraught with CNC alloy trumpets&FinerFiltersocks on spears racing manifold 4-1 extractors Mocal oil cooler(all hoses etc) Chrome fuel press regulator (Dizzy has been apart, checked and regraphed). update: engine is in. sounds soooooo mean. full 2inch exhaust with 2 cobys. battery is in put and fuel pump is in. just have to hook it up to the ignition. and get the cable from the boot to the engine bay clamped down.

i must be lucky to only have a small leak in the boot its easy to see where its coming from tho! theres like a 1inch ripped segment missing. meh, ill fix it oneday

took motor out yesterday... and new motor the day i bought it. current pics of it will b up soon! word just in, exhaust is finished. just need electric fuel pump and relocated batty then we done

ive got bmw valve seals

and ill keep you fullas posted. ya'll should know what i got now.......

http://trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts/Body-panels/auction-13969160.htm

holy shit thats expensive. i just want the car to sit a bit closer to 3000rpm when ive got a 1600 rather than staying at 4000

for god sake get me a nice 1600 motor that will bolt straight in. one which i wont need to rebuild just to be sure its a good one!

you should totally do that dave. get an online catalouge aswell oh and set up a tab for me!

wtf is up with people not editting their last posts??

i have a15 motor in my sunny paddock basher just wondering how in demand they are as i would like to sell the hole car. 1.5l

too right it loooks smart!!!!

what about a 3.89 from the 1300 LC or 4.125 off the 1100 grunta

can u buy the blue look bulbs that r often seen in new subarus and bmws etc? how much are they

with out a doubt it would. havnt u seen those adds in magazines for hi tech muffflers i think, give the wrx 25kw and the s15 20kw or somfing like that

do u buy carbs new? and where from in roto-hole

how much is a resonable price to pay for getting electronic points put in? and set up? All of it from start to finish? will it make it start better or faster or what?

if i get the timing re-set and it doesnt 'arc' anymore, can i keep my leads?

im in roto-hole so i will need new leads?

how much would i cost someone to fix timing?

yeah it sounds exactly like and when u said gnr. kinda like the cd is skipping...... I know sfa about timing so meh, get someone to do it for me. IM only young!! and how much do leads cost

well folks, when the 1300 motor is warm and is running sweet whenever i go 2 turn it off it tries to stop but keeps on tickin. It struggles to fire for about 5-6 seconds after the key is in the off position. whats up with that and how i get it fixed?? i turned idle down from 1000 to about 750 btw. still happens next problem when ever the motors warm, while your sriving it there is a clicking noise like a creak in the dash but tonight after 30min country drive , i popped the hood and could see little 'bolts of lightning' between the ignt. lead and the carb manifold thingy. this wasnt constant and made clicking noises.... anyone?

escort boy, my guess would be 4WD or 4WS