Toucan

Straight from the haynes manual: Valves Open Valves to adjust 1ex 6in 3in 8ex 2in 4ex 5ex 7in 3in 8ex 1ex 6in 5ex 7in 2in 4ex Valve clearances for all 1100, 1300, 1600 2V engines: inlet 0.010in (0.25mm) exhaust 0.022in (0.55mm) Valve clearances for all other 1100 and 1300 engines: inlet 0.008in (0.20mm) exhaust 0.022in (0.55mm) look at that I even formatted it the same way they did, arent I great

I coulda sworn it was in the haynes manual, I've done it a million times... I'll go have a look see on my bit of paper that I always write stuff like this on...

Kinda off topic here but anyway... You seem to have been panel-beating and painting a bit, I've never seen your car, do you have any pic's? You'll have to get some to put in the gallery once its painted

Yea thats what I always planned on doing, grease them then leave them to do their job. Thanks people

I've got nolathane bushes in most places under my car and I know that when you put them in your supposed to grease them up real good with the grease that came with them. Anyway me and a mate got into an arguement about whether or not you have to keep greasing them??? He reckons you have to take them out and re-grease them at least once a year to keep them in good nick, I've never heard of this before, what do you guys reckon?

Personally I would try it out before I went looking for a new carb. I was running my single barrel carb jetted for a 1300 on my 1600 before I put my weber on it. It ran just as good, just way less power. So yea, even though its jetted for a bigger engine it still should be tune-able and go sweet.

Ok couldnt locate the offset from Mr Haynes so I tried to measure my spare. It was so inaccurate its not funny but it looked as if it was about 20somethingish mm from the middle of the rim to where it bolts up to, does that sound about right?

Sounds like a bit of work for me but definately worth doing... I'll put it on my "To do" list Yea I'm waiting for a reply on the auction asking how much he wants for the wheels, in the meantime I'll check the Haynes manual for the offset.

Yea I was thinking some like these: http://trademe.co.nz/structure/auction_detail.asp?id=13870399 They look pretty average on modern cars but I reckon they would look quite phat on an escort. Im not sure about the offset issue though

I would definately say use the 1600 rods, they are about an inch longer than the 1300 ones. I was going to do that but my 1300 pistons were oversize and just out of round (or so I was told) so make sure the 1300 pistons you use are the right size/good condition.

Jinx - Is the offset right with most Saab wheels? cause some Audi's and VW's have 4*108 and I thought of getting some wheels off one of these but then I thought that they would most likely have a FWD offset Also Roller bearing Strut tops, how much are they worth? are they a bolt on sort of thing or do they require a bit more work? never heard much about them before so feel free to share your knowledge

Wouldnt have a clue on the rego but he was in Palmy North while he owned it so I'm doubting it. Cool cars though.

Im jealous All you guys with your wide tires... I only have 155's on my standard rims. Even with my small tires it has the heaviest steering in the world, it didnt help that I put a smaller steering wheel on either. How heavy is your steering with 195/205's???

Yea his was also the 3L V6 model but I showed him the pic and he said he didnt have the kit on his one so my bad, still the same colour though I might be able to dig out a picture sometime but I cant be stuffed now What a find for $4000, dad sold his one for $6000 about 18yrs ago lol. Good stuff.

Yea Jerm's got it sussed, thats exactly what they do. They should be cheaper than that, theres shit all to them... just a hunk of metal

Green_mk2 - Which picture were you meaning? I've never heard of blocks moving the axle back and I cant really tell. Also thats a wicked Capri, dad had one just like it, same colour with the same kit, how much did you score it for?

Yea I think I read that there were only 500 made... I think I read it on Gran Turismo

Ok scrap what I just said in my last post I must of been talking out my ass... I dont know where I got my original prices from but I just checked the website of the place that quoted me and they are way higher. $136 for blocks and $67 for U bolts.... Wooops. http://www.suspensioncity.co.nz/roslow.html

I got my lowering blocks off the dude who sold me my 1600. $40 but the U bolts were stripped to f*ck and I didnt realise till I got home, bit of a bummer. $55 for a new set of U bolts. I havent put them in yet though. Blocks are about $45 I think so $100 to lower the rear end...

http://www.3m.com/product/a_index/a_index.jhtml ... 3M make alot of proucts lol and I have no idea which one. I might research those bostik tiles a bit more...

How thick are the bostik tiles and where can I find them? Any other cheaper ways that people know of?

"pedders".... you lost me, is that another brand of springs? I dont want it too too low, just an inch lower than it sits at the moment would be nice.

Has anyone had any experiences with aftermarket sound deadening? I would like to put some extra stuff on the inside of my firewall to block out a bit more of the engine noise. I know theres lots of stuff that car audio people use; Brownbread Fusion stuff Bostik Tiles Dynamatt Would any of these do or is there a more ruggered way of doing it that would suit a firewall better? Has anyone tried to sound deaden their escort before? Any comments appreciated. Cheers

Yea ditto what are they like? And where do you get them from and for how much?, I have blocks for the rear but dont want to put them in untill I can lower the front aswel. Would look a little bit weird with just the rear lowered I would think

I found it easy to do... Just get a balljoint remover for the control arms, jack the car up a bit and then drop it out... Getting it back in was simple too, just got a mate to use huge ass prybar to lower the control arm while I lifted the strut in place. Maybe I just got beginners luck