Toucan

You can get them second hand just about anywhere, trademe always has some. Most common one you will find is the 32/36 which came out on most 1600's and a few other cars. You will probably need to get it reconditioned which is always expensive, especially if you need to get it re-jetted to suir your 1500, think upwards of $140. The carbs themselves are cheap though, $30 - $100 depending on condition. You will most likely need a new manifold to suit aswell, is your 1500 crossflow? I have both a manifold and a 32/36 for sale but im pretty sure the carb has a leak in it somewhere.

Nah not my car, just a pic I found on the net. I would say yes the trans tunnel would have to be modified to squeeze in the 4AGE bellhousing and gearbox. Another question with 4AGE is do you go 16v or 20v??? Click here

Have you seen 3" Blocks!!! They look unstable as fuck. I have heard of them dropping out at 100kms and trust me that makes a mess of your diff. I'd do what Bistro said and reset your leaves 2" an then go for a 1" block.

Didnt someone post a link on here with one not long ago? Anyway I was looking at some forum with a dude who had just done it, went hard apparently

Yea a 3SGTE would be the shit, probably a bit over the top though. I still reckon your car is begging for a 4AGE

Go the mighty 4AGE!!!

Just look on RT's site...

What ^^ said, model number is on the base of the carb, the side thats closest to the rocker cover so you most likely cant see it till you take it off.

Nah cheers for the offer but it hasn't done it for ages now so I won't be needing it.

Ok here goes... The big 9 wire loom, hold it facing you (as if you were about to plug it in), and the colours go left to right: Black/White, Blue/Black, Brown, Blue/Green, Black/Yellow, Blue, Blue/White, Red/White, Black/Green The smaller 5 wire loom, hold it vertically facing you (again as if you were about to plug it in), and the colours are top to bottom: Grey/Yellow Black/Yellow (Here you will need to make a new wire that goes to the negative of the coil) Brown (No wire in the bottom space) Theres a trick to taking the wires out of the loom, slide a pin along the wire into the back of the loom, and theres a small tab that you need to push down, then just pull the wire out. Remember to bend the small tab back up before sliding the wire into the new location in the loom. Thats about it, worked for me and trunk so should work for you too. I dont think we really need a workshop article for this do we??? Its just basic stuff, and now its on the forum anyway

Haha mean, I love hearing good news about my carb/engine

Yea you have to take out each wire from the loom and then re-order them. You will also need a new wire for the small loom to go to the -ve of the coil. I'll find out the order of the wires then I'll post them up here later on.

You got a sweet deal then. Still sounds a bit much for me, and as my car is going sweet lately I think I'll just stop tinkering with things for awhile

I'd go with a red/black top 16v, keep it oldschool as much as pos

Im guessing you dont own one of the unique ford tools they speak of in the owners manual. Use vice grips

Most suspension places will be able to get you lowering blocks. There were even some on trademe a week or two ago, some guy dealing new ones for any make/model car. Doesnt appear to be there anymore though.

Wait for repco to have a 25% off everything sale and then go and get all new nolathanes, better than paying full price cause they add up pretty quickly. That will tighten everything up alot. After that I'd check your shocks out, they might need replacing. I have no idea what would cause it to drift one direction an then grip the other Welcome to oldschool aswell

Cheers Dave, thats exactly what my old man said. But no I dont think its that as I scraped all the carbon off the pistons when I had them out, I doubt that more would have built up yet. Yea the temp goes down real quick but I think I'll invest in a fan to keep it down even more.

Well while I'm driving the engine temp is fine, its just when I turn it off, and then start it up again after like 5 mins or like waiting in traffic. The temp gauge goes right up to the top and then creeps down to normal as I get moving. I'm 99% sure my ignition timing is set correctly

Running 96 and it only ever does it on the odd ocassion, I think it is running to hot sometimes, in the process of sorting out an electric radiator fan. Its not the choke cause I got rid of that. Is it caused by the engine running too hot?

It happened again the other day, god damm it sounds horrible. Are you able to expand on how to do this safely without launching forward? Anyone else no anything about it? I cant afford to pay anyone to tune my engine professionally, I did a few checks and it seems to be all tuned properly

Twas a joke but anyway... Maybe you need a new battery to give the starter more balls. I got no choke an I still get it going in the mornings fine

Gutted as man, my mate did the same thing to his 3a when he revved it to 9200

Yea what everyone else said bout the black shit, you burn a litre of gas an you make X amount of water. Umm, new piston rings = heaps of compression = harder to start... havent put new rings in it lately have you

And yea who cares about the cert? Only a escort owner or ex escort owner is going to know that a 1600's block is an inch higher than a 1300's, so who is going to be able to tell that its a 1600? Just say you reconditoned the 1300 and now it goes alot better. If that fails say that you were told by a mechanic that you wouldnt need to get it certed as escorts came out with factory 1600's using the exact same everything else so why would it require a cert? Thats what I'm going with