Defcon

Yeah no point turbing, just get an uno turbo. Chris got his for 200 bucks!! and man do u look at the roof alot.... as for the uno, induction, rejet the carbi - cheap webber maybe? shave the shit out off the head,(retard timing justa little i guess to) and make sure the valves dont hit. regrind the cam(200 bucks??) twin coils..... lol have fun with it, all out ghetto i say. Def'

Heres the coupe in progress, Chassis:standard, Suspension: Front; King Springs with Tochi sports shocks, Nolathane Shock and sway bar bushes, Rear; king springs with adjustable rancho shocks, Brakes: Front: Larger ,vented Audi Rotors and Vb commy Calipers Rear:Standard with everything reco'd Engine: G200 2ltr OHC with reground cam, shaved head, Twin 40mm Idf webers and extractors, Driveline: Standard. Wheels: Still comming Engine needs to be put in, should be soon in the comming Uni hollidays i hope, and the same with the wheels.

Lol, i shon a torch down the spark plug hole and watched it come to tdc

Cheers mate, its safe to say i owe you a few beers! Been thinking about gettin a decent cam so i guess ill do a bit more reasrch on that and get the whole lot done! (as above the intake was still conected to the rocker so u mite be rite there) Ill take it down to a shop some where n see what they say. def'

Thanks again man....Like i said, im illiterate when it comes to heads.. time for another picture i think. Blocks been rebuilt, but cause its a differnt head, the head hasnt been....Ahwell, guess ill have to get some quotes or just chuck the old 2ltr head on which is in good cond... How much ruffly a head reco worth? Thanks again, "Def-dawg"

I may aswell just right an essay on head problems, new one for ya RT, ok maybe the valve stem seals are dead, while porting the head, i found oil in the intake ports..... in an OHC changing the stem seals pretty much means takign the head completly to bits....*begins to cry* and i dont have the slightest idea about clearance timing or any of the millions of fiddley bits surrounding the valves/cam...wel guess im about to learn... and splash out for a cam while im at it... ive been murdering the account lately,mrs will me none to happy i will be none to satisfied come friday nights.. booohoooo... any who before i go ripping it all to bits and loosing everything, ill grab all your 2 cents. Thanks, def'

Yeah the chambers are covered in oil, but im using a differnt block so it should be sweet,valve steams seals are all sweet in the head so that should be the ned of the oil in the chambers. plugs.....covered in oil and carbon, yum yum!

using the 1600 head jerm, yeah i know i should, but at the mo i cant really be bothered taking the head to bits- and re clearancing ect.... ill do all that when i sort out a cam for now, just wana make sure its all rite then bolt it on...

Yeah the H/G looks really new, so u mite be right there, guna be fun cleaning that off. Dont understand why it would only be on the exhaust valve tho, wouldnt it cover the combustion chamber... Thanks dude, Def'

Thanks dude, ill put a pic soon, as its a bit thicker then your usual carbon build up. Def' Pics http://img283.echo.cx/img283/3597/rach0015et.jpg http://img283.echo.cx/img283/2771/rach0025xd.jpg

Got roudn to getting both the 1600 and 2ltr heads off, firstly wat should i check for in making sure the heads in good cond. Secondly the exhause valves have got a mud coloured past or looks almost like clay on them, wtf is this? there for a reason or something more synister? Thanks, def'

Dizzy recurving anyone?

engines out but not apart, ive been told to bend a valve and jam it between the fly wheel, but i aint got a blow torch!

a series of questions for the imformed. Its getting increasly likley that the head on the g200 will need a bit of work to get it back in working order, but the only way il know is by taking it off, and the only way of taking it off is by drilling out 2 of the head bolts, which are unavailable in nz . So screw it, im cheap and lazy, i just chuck the 1600 head and on reap the benfits(and problems) of higher compression, not to mention the bigger valves in the 1600 head. Any who, in order to cope with the higher comp, somewhere around 10.6:1, the dizzy needs to be re-curved(so im told), [*:3pfggjny]Some one wana fill me in to ruffly what this means and whats invulved? Gota retension on the 2ltr timing chain, so the question is, [*:3pfggjny]How do i un bolt the crank pully from the crank, engine is out of the car Finally, any of you forsee any other problems or suggestions ( a bigger radiator may be needed...ect) i know its hard wiht out knowing the g series engines, so any ideas appreciated. will chuck the g200 cam in it. Def'

Lowlancer, the carb has mechanical secondarys so u dont ned to worry bout screwing with the vacume. When you get it, turn it up side down and twist the throttle level, you'll see the small throat open and then about half way thru the twist the larger throat will open and you'l see why! this is why real men drive carbs! non of that efi witch craft! Def'

leon, i think my dizzy is elec ( on the g200) but you cant have it. Oh and driftnmaz, that was me you spoke to at the bp.

I know of a guy who has one in his rx2, he tells me its stong as but very pricey, about 2 grand installed, with shortening ance all the other dohabs.

Thanks for the info, as for the cecking joints for air leaks, how exactly would i got about this? guess the only way is to loosten it and align/tighten them. Will prob grab a few mates round and bleed it manually, maybee the valves busted. Thanks, def

Word, having real trouble bleeding my brakes. I just fited a new set of custom rotors and calipers-ive bleed the back and now am bleeding the front. Problem beeing ive just spend 3 days and 3+ letres bleeding the left front caliper and there is still air coming thru! i still have to bleed the right front! I dont think this is normal so could any one suggest the problem? Thanks, def'

Another typical kiwi repair id have to say, i drilled it a bit, nothing much happened, gopt in a rage, wacked the hit out of it with a hammer, which then blocked up the holes and gaps int he easy out,(if u imagine i wacked it and the spread) so i dont think any oil will be leakin out of her now( not unless it can force its wacy thru a mil of metal or summin. Ive got other threaded holes i can use for the sender so all is solved, thanks for the help yall.

Word. Another gay problem for yall to help me solve! well first my oil temp sender snaper of and left the threaded bolt in my iron block, yay, next the easy out snaped, so now i have block with a bolt in it and a piece of harded steel in the bolt. i need all this out, how? no tools i have will drill thru the hardend steel and i wouldnt trust my self with a heli-coil. Where would u go to get somthing like this done, (engine is out of the car but its stil like 150 kgs or summin and i cant left it with a few mates, yay again) thanks, def' Ps if any one wants to come to my house and do it il spot the cash

sweet i found the adjusters, now to what at ruff estimate woudl u say i adust them to, right back so the cover slips on easy or half way? the shoes are old so keep this in mind. thanks, Def

well i got one side on no worries, but the side i started wiht is the one being a cunt, thee adjusters , where would i find them ( bear in mind i havent screwed with the shoes, onyl the cyclinders) thanks, def

ok well i have not had a succesful attempt at changing my brake cyclinders. everything from the dif back relating to the drums has either striped or snaped during some point of the change ( for the reccord "shocking" shit before you try to unscrew it is the best thign in the world). Any who, time for the next problem. after bleeding both cyclinders, i depress the brake pedal fully, on one of the ends of one cyclinder pops out. yay! go to work, boss tells me that im just a noob and this happend because i didnt have th drum cover on(which i didnt). get home, try to put cover on,but surprise surprise another problem, i cant get it on, it wont fit any more! YAY!( at this point i got up and list the gem for sale on trade me) I know your supposed to have the drum machined when u cange shoes,butn what bout when your just changing the cyclinders? Any help MUCH appreciated, if you wana make a quick 20-30 bucks come round my place and finish it all for me, cause i am past caring!

OK well now ive got the cover off, where do i start on the shoes . i cant see any screw(asides from the screws that hld the brake cyclinder on) where do i start! Def'