shizzl

Bit of a shame theyr not 15A, I could hook up my welders at home

10A outlets

Walked into the workshop this morning, the front flare had fallen off overnight. Must say I also prefer the no flare look with super deep chromos . in other dumb purchase news: I picked up a GM electric power steering unit today. Not sure what I’ll use it for yet. But will work well with a Yaris rack or something like that for a rack conversion.

If I run the flares, it’ll be to have a wider track width. Ie spacers all round, cut the guards out. The front needs to be raised and positioned better. will get the bags in first. I may not use them if it forces the wheels into the firewall with the spacers. flares will be the last thing to decide on

I thought the same when I looked back at the photo. Definitely needs to be raised up

Thoughts on these flares? made for an RX3 coupe. Got these from Andy Duffin. the rears fit the moulding lines damn near perfectly. this allows for full tuck on the cragars with the 225s. the rear can run a 25mm spacer to bring it out to the flare lip. the front in the pic is slammed with no spring. wheel will eventually go up another inch I guess with the bags after some rearranging of the upper spring perch. the rear has stock leaves and 50mm blocks, so will drop Atleast 150mm, maybe 200mm from this stance

That’s lucky with the guard clearance

F series diff. I did find a lsd unit to fit these that were designed for the sunbeam/rapier racing series in the UK. I can’t fit 13x7s on the hunter with 215s, might sneak in 205s. absolutely no chance with a wider diff. the escort wheels just fit in there with 195s. I’ll be using a mk2 escort English diff with billet axles and lsd. An atlas diff would be the go

My 4 link kit from Kruzin Kustons arrived. quality is on point. Glad I paid more than the low budget imported gear. have got a set of RX3 coupe flares coming from Andy Duffin that he’s dropping off next week. it’ll check fitment to see how they look. might even be able to run a spacer haha so far I have most of the air ride stuff here: bags compressors 5 sensor gauge and switch unit Fbss valve block 5 port air tank just need to sort fittings, water traps and air line, and obviously bag brackets.

This is as low as the factory uncut-anything will go without springs in it. 17s and 15s for reference. needs another 1.5-2” to lay frame, not that I want it bellied, but why do things halfway right.

@RXFORD wanna come set mine up? Hahaha

Kruzins kits are made by them. they were importing from the states but didn’t like the welds with cert etc. they should be plenty long enough being designed for American stuff. there’s also the palmside kits too, designed for rally use, so long range of motion. my thoughts were always to set the diff to ride height with correct pinion angle, the set the diff linkage bushes vertical and the bars parallel to the ground. but I’m no scientist

Where did you find the calculator tool? I ordered my 4 link from kruzin kustoms today. looking to do a 200mm notch.

Watching with interest on the notch and 4 link.

Saturday flex session very tempted to turbo this 4age

Yup it does. both parallel and triangulated have been used for decades rally cars generally use a parallel set up with a watts link or panhard

I’d prefer to buy fabricated arms, and I can sort brackets from there. I’ve made arms for my Stockcar’s in the past without any failures. I just want to avoid anymore cert dramas. since you mentioned it, I’m now swayed toward the watts link , with zero side to side change. very handy when stuffing wides under the tray. Only going with 8s with 225s but the offset is awesome. I’ll just need to navigate my way through the CCM to see what’s in there about notches, bags and linkage set ups. Wish me luck with that, see ya next year

I’m sure if I went with a watts, I’d just get a palmside escort kit and make it fit. It’s the centre bushing/pivot that is the trickiest part of that.

Mainly availability of components/kits . I do like the idea of the parallel 4 link and panhard. I think it looks tidier. I will be doing more research before ordering anything to see if the parallel set up uses even bars etc. then I might just get some brackets made to do the parallel set up with custom made arms and a generic 4x4 adjustable panhard bar

Well the first order of bags was a fail. EBay cancelled the order at the border. Kent’s. so ordered from elsewhere and 2 weeks later I have 4 bags for testing. These bags are 230/65 with an internal bump stop, but I’ll add an external one as well. in the future I’ll plan to upgrade to slam specialty bags and accuair control. but for now, I’ll go cheap to have a play. will order the 4 link kit this week. opted to go with an engineering firm that make them, 100% cert ready. I’ve heard mixed results for the generic stuff with the welds not passing. as Snoop Dogg once said, drop it like it’s hot

Hunter is Blaze approved. alternate news, I had some oddball shifter sitting in the shop with a leather boot on it. it’s the traverse lick out type. so I pulled it apart, honed out the guts of it to slip over the T50 gearstick, wound the know onto it. looks perfect. will need to trim the console plate to accept the boot base, then I can apply trim to the console plate to finish it off. im also wanting to find a nice tach that doesn’t look complete cactus and actually reads correctly. this one bounces all over the show. hits limmy just off idle

Luckily the hunters tank is pretty spotless

That reminds me to put a filter in the hunter. Doesn’t have one yet. Sorry pump and injectors

Perfect info, btw just sent you a pm

4 link bushings. have found a nice kit close to home but uses heim joints. another one is an extra $200 and probably 3 weeks shipping, but uses poly bushes. are the heim joints a terrible idea to use on a road car? I’ve only used them in Stockcar’s, theyr naturally noisey so couldn’t really tell.