Carsnz123

1 hour ago, ajg193 said:

Yep, Kennelly Cams

Have had quite a bit of work done by him. Never had one of his cams fail. Good engine assembly lube and good oil when breaking it in and you’ll be fine. 

Not sure if this is better here or in general but anyway. 

Carsnz123 has been a fool and bought a V8 E34 Bimmer. Among the European issues it has the wiper arm has attacked the screen a little. Has anyone tried polishing glass themselves and got any advice? or is there some OSGC in Christchurch with the gear who would do us a cracker deal? These Ali kits look the tits

 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000251756192.html?src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&albcp=9594012230&albag=94205055490&trgt=296904913880&crea=en4000251756192&netw=u&device=c&albpg=296904913880&albpd=en4000251756192&gclid=CjwKCAjwmrn5BRB2EiwAZgL9og_23cRUmRqp77NfETJj4kLWE2nRMP9bO7HaGwm3P0XYGB2WqMZvPRoC-2sQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

herzliche Grüße

Fool With Euro Cars Again 

Sounds like youve got the incorrect needles. Your spring selection should be based on having the piston at full height at redline under load. TBH having a O2 sensor like the kits that 14.7 sell makes life much easier when setting carbs up on a midified engine. Also ensure that your mechanical and vacuum advance are working correctly. cant count the number of times that has screwed up tuning a vehicle.  

Haven't heard good things about their DCOE copies. Manufacturing tolerances are a bit large. My experience with china copy carbs is porous castings, failing rubber components, and sloppy throttle shafts/plates. Wouldn't fit one to an engine I care about without a proper going-over.     

A series don't make enough power to break things. puhuhuhu 

33 minutes ago, cletus said:

2. Threshold says it's ok to swap auto to manwell, if you use optional oe parts....the kicker is if you change to a manual brake pedal or modify the oe pedal, that needs cert 

There was a thing earlier in the year that they were going to modify the brake rules. Have you got any info on this? 

Yes It's a shit of a thing to machine. Freezing makes it easier and having an air supply to cool your tool helps. High rake angle and razor sharp tool helps a lot too.  The boys at SAS or Autoline (I've forgotten who) here in Christchurch have someone who can machine bushes and I'm fairly sure hes based up your way. Might pay to ring them. 

Wurth Liquid Metal is the tits for shit like that. Is a grey epoxy that sets rock solid and sticks like shit to a blanket as long as the metal is clean and its got somthing to key into. 

@Beaver also check the voltage to your coil under cranking. Had it in the past with a valiant that was really hard to start. Only had 4V at Thebes coil. 

1 hour ago, Beaver said:

Short of replacing it and seeing if anything changes, is there a way to test?

Check resistance in primary and secondary windings. They fail due to insulation breaking down. low resistance or very high resistance is bad. 

1 hour ago, Beaver said:

Any tips for checking/fixing this?

If engine stalls or is hard to start pour water over carb and fuel pump to cool them down. If it fixes the problem then your fuel is getting too hot. 

On 22/05/2020 at 18:26, Nominal said:

Even though some of the employees look suspect...............

My experience with Pertronix stuff is fixing poorly installed units and dodgy reluctor wheels. Unless you're running a well tweaked engine my general advice stick with the points. The number of people that fuck up fitting those kits is amazing. But cheep points like fuel miser are shit too. Good quality points and condenser in a distributor that isn't worn to hell will fire up no problems and run sweetly. 

Just now, AllTorque said:

Are you sure there is ethanol in BP98?

Whoops, no there isn't ethanol in 98 but there is t-Butanol 

well if you go off the MSDS of BP 91 and 98 then its only the last 7%ish that makes up the difference. Ethanol and MTBE are used for anti knock agents. The MTBE replaced the lead in fuel in the 70s. Its better for the environment but not by much.  

11 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Does anyone know what the dilly is with 100+?

Even the NPD website says nothing about the composition of the fuel.

I have been lead to believe that its pretty well the same blend as NPD's 95 but with more octane increasing sauce. As a side note we've found at work that its more stable and stores better than 91 or 95 so we keep it on hand and put it in everything. My Blacktop 4age seems to get better economy on 100+ than 95 so I'm sold. the 7M in the crown just seemed to suck the same quantity (shit loads) so may as well stick to 95 when its going again.

@morkster I believe that build up in carbs is a reaction between something in the pot metal the carb is made of and whatever is left behind when the fuel evaporates. Ive seen it lots in old cars that have been left to sit for a year or more. Barry is being a tinfoil hat Barry.   

As far as cars go anything over a 8:1 CR that's carby goes better on 95 in my experience. Especially pom cars and their amazing ability to detonate  high octane fuel in a low CR head. If in doubt the Factory manual will have fuel recommendations or it will be in the fuel flap. Makes me lol when I see consumers in the news having a waa about their car blowing up because they didn't know they had to put the good fuel in it. FFS woman there is a sticker in your fuel flap that says what fuel to put in it.   

Also those lead additives are a waste of time and money. Just makes your plugs fail sooner.  

/need to add a touch of diesel and 2 stroke oil for wrist pin lubrication 

The require servicing from time to time. I imagine its got dirt in the mechnism 

I’m not allowed to see VQ timing chain apparently 

4 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

Should get someone to print you some slidey trumpets/trombones so you can adjust the length as the revs go up

Chrysler didn’t this for testing for the cross ram engines. My Forman has shown me pics of a mechanically injected 265 with a similar setup that was in a jet boat. Was quite a Rocket aparently. Used centrifugal weight to push them out. 

Isn't there a formula for working out the curve of a velocity stack bellmouth? similar to that of how they work out sizing of trombones and of the like. 

The quality of Fenix was obviously better then. They're shit now. Stay faaaaaarrrrrrrr away from them. Will fail in less than 6 months. 

gross

They originated from the running boards meeting the rear guards on the earlier wellsides. The cabs got wider and filled in the running board area leaving that little bit behind the cab to the rear guard. Currently working on a 57 Chev 3100 and the stepside is handy for throwing parts in its tray

Hey @cletus, this is the cert tag on a 180sx at a dealer. Would the fact that the the model hasn’t been inputted incorrectly be an issue? Resulting in you being reasonable in requesting it be fixed if you were a prospective buyer? 

Was a good giggle seeing the Daihatsu line up against an NSX. sounded pretty cool. The 12 y/o driving could of given it a bit more noisy pedal.